Hello,
I have a 1989 Carver 4208. Looking for the forward hatch. Any recommedations . Thanks Kelly

Does anyone have a spare joystick for Volvo Penta QL thruster? If so, please let me know price.

Looking for a replacement rear seat or measurements for the wood cuts.

Hi everyone,

I’m hoping to tap into the experience of Carver owners here for some practical input.

I’m currently sourcing a boat on behalf of a friend — the arrangement is that I’ll help find a suitable vessel, get it seaworthy, and oversee its transport (or delivery) to the Turks & Caicos. Once there, it will mainly serve as a liveaboard in a marina (at extremely good rate for me when needed), with occasional local recreational use.

I’ve come across a Carver 42, which is mechanically well maintained but in need of some upgrades which I’ll carry out. It has Crusader petrol engines. On paper and in person, it’s in good shape, and the 42 is perfect for its intended liveaboard purpose.

However, I’m trying to gauge whether the trip from the Bahamas down to Turks & Caicos would be realistically feasible in this vessel. Shipping the boat is proving cost-prohibitive, and my preference would be to invest that budget into the boat itself on upgrades, systems, safety gear, etc. rather than on transport.

I would be using a professional delivery skipper, and a couple of experienced captains have expressed interest but I want to make sure it’s feasible generally speaking, before committing to the purchase, should I have to find a new skipper. The plan would be to make the run in multiple legs, taking the route with maximum possible fuel and marina stops, given the range limitations of a petrol-powered Carver 42.

Before we go any further, I’d really appreciate hearing from anyone who’s either:

1. Owned or delivered a similar Carver (particularly with Crusader gas engines) on longer passages,
2. Operated one extensively in the Caribbean or Bahamas, or
3. Has insight into sea-handling, and practical considerations for this kind of trip.

I’ve searched the forum (and others) as best I can, and obviously the boat lends itself to the Great Loop, but this one off trip is more demanding.

All input welcome. I’m not trying to push the limits, just looking to make an informed, safe, and cost-sensible decision.

Thanks in advance for any real-world advice!

CP

Anyone know what type/model number for the original vacuflush toilet in a 2006 466 MY? I need new seals. Thanks

Question for you all;

Has anyone ever seen this process used for cleaning your holding tanks? I'm considering doing it but do not want to damage anything. Our boat has 2 simple rules:

#1... Here
#2... On the shore.

That being said my level sensors are getting a little finicky and thought i'd try this before replacing them completely.

Holding Tank Descale Checklist – 72-Gallon System

This checklist details a safe descaling procedure for large marine holding tanks (approximately 72
gallons) using a diluted CLR solution. The goal is to loosen calcium and urine scale without damaging
sensors, seals, or plumbing.

Recommended Fill Level and Mix Ratio
For a 72-gallon tank, fill the tank only one-third to one-half full (≈25–30 gallons) with a diluted CLR
solution. This allows the mixture to contact most internal surfaces without risking overpressure or
prolonged sensor exposure.
Standard Mix: Combine 3 quarts of CLR with 30 gallons of water (approximately a 1:40 ratio).
This mixture effectively removes scale while remaining safe for plastic tanks, hoses, and seals.

Step 1 — Pump Out Completely
Empty the holding tank fully and, if available, rinse once with fresh water.
Step 2 — Add the Diluted CLR Mix
Add the CLR-water mixture via the deck pump-out port or toilet. Avoid filling the tank beyond 50%
capacity.
Step 3 — Soak and Agitate
Let the mixture sit for 30–60 minutes. If possible, operate the boat gently so the solution sloshes inside,
helping it reach tank walls and sensors.
Step 4 — Pump Out and Rinse
Pump out completely, then refill halfway with fresh water and pump out again to flush residual CLR.
Step 5 — Neutralize (Optional)
Pour a solution of 1 cup baking soda mixed in 2 gallons of water into the tank. Let sit 10 minutes, then
pump out again.
Step 6 — Final Rinse and Inspection
Flush once more with clean water. Check that tank level sensors now read accurately and that no odor
or scale remains.

Safety and Maintenance Notes
• Do not fill the entire 72-gallon tank with CLR solution — half full is sufficient.
• Do not allow the CLR mixture to sit overnight.
• Never mix CLR with bleach, enzymes, or any ammonia-based cleaners.
• Avoid soaking rubber seals, duckbill valves, or metal fittings directly in CLR.
• For stubborn buildup, consider marine-safe alternatives such as Rydlyme Marine or Dometic Tank
Cleaner.
Perform this procedure annually or whenever level sensors begin reading inaccurately. Following each
descale, use Dometic or Star Brite holding tank treatments monthly to prevent new deposits.

So the 25 year old fridge has died. In order to replace it I'm going to have to remove the main entry door (Hatch). I appears to be pretty straight forward. does anyone have any experience with this? Anything I should be aware of or mistakes to avoid?
Thanks

Anyone needs this,it Includes thread, hot knife, and other accessories

$500 shipped

dianesmallings@outlook.com

I recently purchased a 2002 Carver 570 Voyager with Volvo Penta Diesels TAMD74EDC 480 HP each

During the initial Sea Trial, there was Black Soot covering the back of boat, swim step and cockpit area.
We assumed it was due to the engine surveyor pushing the engines to 2600 rpm's.

Recently, we made a 4 hour trip to channel islands, cruising at 1800 rpm's and found the Black Soot was again covering the back of boat.

Any suggestions what would be the cause?

John Bath

Hi there

I am on the hunt for 2 2 1/2” shaft struts and stuffing boxes for a 2004 570 pilothouse which is running D12 Volvos with 2 1/2” shafts. Any ideas where I could track some down?