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110 vs 220 electric

Discussion of batteries, chargers, wiring, generators, distribution panels, battery switches, etc.
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jnick
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110 vs 220 electric

Postby jnick » April 13th, 2017, 9:22 am

Here is my problem. I have a 2000 Voyager 450. My outgoing power cord is a 125/250 50 amp for the last three years I have been plugged into a shore power of the same with no problems. This is only one cord, I do not have multiple inlets.

I am trying to move to a new slip in the same marina. The current shore power is 125 50 amp plug. They will not upgrade the plug saying the dock does not have enough capacity to handle the power the boat is wired for.

We want the slip and I was advised that all systems should work expect for ac systems. So I purchased a $379 adapter, and the panel shows nothing. All breakers are on, but the panel is black. If I switch to generator all is normal, showing 240 volts in and all systems work.

If I shut off and try to go to shore power I get no reading coming in.

Repair shops want to rip my panel out saying it must have a short. Will this boat ONLY run on 250 volts shore power? shouldn't 110 at least register on the meter?

I want the slip so would like to find a way to work this out.

thanks for help

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Re: 110 vs 220 electric

Postby Midnightsun » April 13th, 2017, 10:31 am

Do any appliances work off of 250v? Reason I ask is my boat is also set up the same way however the 250 runs into a 50a isolation transformer and exits to 2 120v circuits found at the boat panel. Obviously I have no 250v appliances on board.
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Re: 110 vs 220 electric

Postby Lyndon670 » April 13th, 2017, 4:38 pm

I think I may have your answer, as I had something similar with my boat, an '01 506 - same power setup.

Does your post also have 30 amp service? I can't plug mine into my 50 amp service at certain marinas - but, I can use my "smart Y" (2 30A in, 1 50A out) and plug each 30A into DIFFERENT sides of the 30A post on the dock. When I do this, everything works as if I am plugged into a 50A service.
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Re: 110 vs 220 electric

Postby Viper » April 13th, 2017, 4:50 pm

Lyndon is correct. What you need is a Reverse Y adapter however you will need to ensure you plug into two 30 amp outlets that are on separate legs electrically or it will not work. If they don't have that at the post, this will not work.

http://www.carveryachtowners.com/posting.php?mode=edit&f=12&p=12318
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Re: 110 vs 220 electric

Postby Midnightsun » April 13th, 2017, 4:53 pm

Lyndon670 wrote:Source of the post I think I may have your answer, as I had something similar with my boat, an '01 506 - same power setup.

Does your post also have 30 amp service? I can't plug mine into my 50 amp service at certain marinas - but, I can use my "smart Y" (2 30A in, 1 50A out) and plug each 30A into DIFFERENT sides of the 30A post on the dock. When I do this, everything works as if I am plugged into a 50A service.


I do the same however since we do not have 50a at our marina. I do not believe he has 30a service on different phases otherwise they could easily set him up with a 50A 250v
Cheers, Hans
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Re: 110 vs 220 electric

Postby jnick » April 13th, 2017, 8:28 pm

Only one outlet at the post so I cannot do the split. Only appliances that require the 250 volt are the ac units. Electric stove, refrig and all others are 110. I believe it is 50 amp but only 125 volt. I don't use anywhere near the 50 with normal appliances running. So with the adapter I was instructed to purchase I thought the system would fire up but not run the ac.
But the panel is black like no power at all to it. I am not sure what the "black box" does that is hung in the engine room where the power cord enters the boat. Does this sense that the power is inadequate and does not open allow any power to the panel? I may have to give up slip and move back to the 250 50 amp service and wait for another opening....

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Re: 110 vs 220 electric

Postby Viper » April 13th, 2017, 9:27 pm

I see where you're coming from now. There are a couple of ways to deliver this but I suspect you have a four contact plug (3 pole 4 wire) that delivers both 125V and 250V. I think the only way you're going to be able to do this is for them to grab another 125 volt leg from a nearby pedestal and wire it into the pedestal you need, then replace the outlet to a 125/250 50A. This should be possible if multiple legs were used to supply power to all the pedestals in that particular row. Now whether those circuits can handle all the loads combined from all the boats depends on how the place was wired and the available power. It's a common problem with marinas that's starting to creep up as power requirements are on the increase and taxing original marina distribution systems that were never designed to handle that much load. Mid Summer loads are the test as water heaters, AC units, etc. draw quite a bit.

Here's an adapter to go from the 125V pedestal to your 125/250V plug but I don't know if it supplies both voltages as I've never dealt with it. You may want to call and talk to their tech dept.
http://www.marinco.com/en/118a
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Re: 110 vs 220 electric

Postby Midnightsun » April 14th, 2017, 6:32 am

I have to assume you have a Charles isolator between the inlet and your panel like I do however you describe it as a hanging black box. To my knowledge they are either grey or white and mine weighs 235 lbs so it is not hanging. Unfortunately you need 250v for the power to get through this isolator. My suggestion is to call Charles industries with your isolator model number to see if it can accept 120v as some have dual inlet taps. Now one may assume just bypass the isolator but then you basically remove your protection from galvanic corrosion and reverse polarity which is not a good idea. Here is a link to what the isolator does. http://www.passagemaker.com/channels/th ... nsformers/

On another note, I am a little surprised your marina uses 125v 50A outlets as these are quite rare and actually a mistake that should never have been.
Cheers, Hans
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Re: 110 vs 220 electric

Postby Viper » April 14th, 2017, 9:22 am

Don't know that I'd call it a mistake, depends on when it was done as requirements/standards at the time were different than they are now. My 3807 for example has two 125V 50A inlets which was the original OEM design at the time.
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Re: 110 vs 220 electric

Postby Jms110115 » August 24th, 2017, 2:38 pm

jnick, did you ever get what you needed for this?

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