Port Engine runs hot on plane

[paboater76]

Source of the post

Source of the post If that does not cure the heating problem, I'm going to take the starboard seacock to the port engine and the port seacock to the starboard engine and see if that moves the problem.

Source of the post

Source of the post....Have you confirmed that there is no blockage in the muffler from a broken baffle or something else?
* No, ....But the discharge at idle at the dock is the same as the other engine....

If this is your answer to my question above, why would you suspect a restriction anywhere else? Before you swap seacock lines, close both seacocks, remove the lines, then open the suspect seacock and closely observe flow. Don't worry, it won't be a torrential flow. Then shut it off, then do the same to the other side and compare the flow.

If you remain in the water during winter and the water freezes, it could affect the seacock. Can you open and close the seacock easily?

Source of the post

Did you do this yet?

The question about replacing the outlet hose with a clear one wasn't intended to determine the condition of the hose, it's a trick used to check if you're getting air in the flow from anywhere in the system including a cavitating pump.

No we haven't confirmed if there is a blockage in the muffler, I forgot to mention that one to him. That would require pulling the boat correct? If so, that might have to be one of the last things we look at.

On the discharge and blockage anywhere else, what I meant was, at idle they look to be the same flow. On plane going down the river, I'm not so sure.

I haven't been down to the boat to re-install the RWP yet. It has a brand new cam plate as the old one was about half worn. I'm praying that is the reason that under load above 2.5 to 3k rpm it starts to creep up to 190ish, was a weak RWP due to the half worn cam plate.

After I get the RWP, trans cooler, fluids etc re-installed. We will be going on a sea trail using an IR gun to get a real temp reading.

Here is the thing. when we winterized the engines last year, we pulled the intake hose off the seacock and put that hose in a 5g bucket. Put a garden hose in said 5g bucket and filled it to the top. started the engine and idled, the garden hose could just barley keep up at idle, but when he revved up the engine you could see a noticeable difference in how much water was "slurped" out of the 5g bucket each time he goosed the engine compared to the port engine. I hope I explained that correctly. That's why I'm praying it was the Cam plate. In my case I'm hoping no blockages, and I just had a weak pump.

If I still have issues, I will try the clear hose.

My seacocks all function and are smooth. I opened the seacock but with the intake hose still attached and just bent the hose over (below the water line) and it started to flood the hose and pour out the end into the bilge. I will remove the hose and open it and see what it looks like on both engines and compare.

Thanks for the replies I appreciate it! I hope I touched on all your questions.

[Viper]

That's why one of my questions was about the condition of the pump. Even if the wear isn't that apparent, it could have a big impact on pumping capacity. I think you'll see an improvement once you repair the pump. If the cam is that worn, you won't create the same amount of vacuum, so the volume will be reduced. Fingers crossed that it's the only thing wrong.

[km1125]

might be too late, but did you get any measurements on the cam?

I looked around online a while ago to see if I could find any so I could compare with mine. I was looking to see if it was worth it to buy the major kit or even just new cams.

[paboater76]

Here is an update on my heat issue.

Sea trialed the boat yesterday. I swapped the gauges at the helm and replaced the temp sender with a new one on the port. My mech was down in the engine room while I was running the boat. He was using an IR gun to scan the engines while under load and on plane.

So now the temp gauge on the port never gets to 160 lol while the starboard is 180 spot on, So neither show they are overheating on the gauge and the IR gun never saw a temp over 180 on either engine. He said the port was running about 10-15deg warmer than the starboard per the IR gun but that was completely normal.

We replaced the temp sender with a new one, but I'm not positive it was the correct one. What is the correct temp sender for a helm that has 2 gauges, 1 for the port and 1 for the Starboard. Please explain dual station vrs single station and which one I have..

I see temp senders from 18 bucks to 53 bucks, I just want to replace the sender again and make sure I have the correct parts. What is the correct temp sender for my config?

p.s we also added the clear hose from the oil cooler to the heat exchanger, it was pumping clear river water no bubbles. Flow looked great. under load the hose was tight but not rock hard or swelling, indicating no restriction in the heat exchanger.

So even though my gauges read completely different, port 150ish and starboard 180. They seem to be running great. They sound great. We ran on plane at 3200rpm for about 30min and it never got hot on the IR gun or gauge.

But I would really like to get both gauges reading the same for OCD purposes.

Thanks,

[tomschauer]

when you replaced the port thermostat what temp stat did you install? If it was a 160, that is most likely your difference. Starboard is probably 180.

[bud37]

Just to answer your question about dual station vs single.....dual is when you have two separate helms, e.g. one on the flybridge and one in the salon ( each on would have gages ) thereby needing the appropriate sender ( they have different ohms ratings )......single station would just be the flybridge and none in the salon.
Now I do remember with a previous carver with crusader engines and on the engine that had the hoses that went to the water heater , the thermostat was different which I changed ( couldn't stand the two different readings), LOL.

[km1125]

Source of the post
We replaced the temp sender with a new one, but I'm not positive it was the correct one. What is the correct temp sender for a helm that has 2 gauges, 1 for the port and 1 for the Starboard. Please explain dual station vrs single station and which one I have..

You need a dual station if you have two helms (like a bridge and a salon helm) so that the temp sensor is supporting two different gauges. If you just have a single helm, then you have a single station.


Previously you wrote:
"It gets to about 190, at that point I pull back the gas back to the 2k range and the gauge comes back down to normal levels."

What is "normal"?? The engine temp SHOULD NOT VARY once it's heated up. It might vary a bit in a raw water cooled engine if the lake is cold because of leakage through the thermostat, but a closed cooling system should not have that issue.
Does it still vary, or does it just go up to 180 and stay there regardless of load/speed?

Did you verify that both thermostats are the correct ones for your application? They come in many different temperatures... 140, 142, 143, 160, 165, 180, 185, 190 and 195ish. You might have two different ones. Raw water cooled usually use the 140's and closed would typically be 160-180.

[paboater76]

Old post, but I wanted to follow up with my solution. After 4 years of chasing a heat issue, I finally decided to replace the heat exchanger, The orig HE was taken off sent to a rad shop, pressure tested, cleaned and an external leak fixed. I still had the issue so I did not look any further at the HE.

We this year, I decided to just start throwing parts at it. Started with a new E35 sherwood, no change, new thermostat, no change, next the HE and boom, boat will run all day at 3200 @ 170-175deg.

Old HE must have had a small internal crack, I have stopped losing antifreeze as well.

[km1125]

Thanks for the update!! Always great to hear what actually fixed the problem!!

[vineyardgray]

Excuse my ignorance - what's a CAM plate?