Viper wrote:Source of the postpaboater76 wrote:Source of the post If that does not cure the heating problem, I'm going to take the starboard seacock to the port engine and the port seacock to the starboard engine and see if that moves the problem.paboater76 wrote:Source of the postViper wrote:Source of the post....Have you confirmed that there is no blockage in the muffler from a broken baffle or something else?
* No, ....But the discharge at idle at the dock is the same as the other engine....
If this is your answer to my question above, why would you suspect a restriction anywhere else? Before you swap seacock lines, close both seacocks, remove the lines, then open the suspect seacock and closely observe flow. Don't worry, it won't be a torrential flow. Then shut it off, then do the same to the other side and compare the flow.
If you remain in the water during winter and the water freezes, it could affect the seacock. Can you open and close the seacock easily?paboater76 wrote:Source of the post
Did you do this yet?
The question about replacing the outlet hose with a clear one wasn't intended to determine the condition of the hose, it's a trick used to check if you're getting air in the flow from anywhere in the system including a cavitating pump.
No we haven't confirmed if there is a blockage in the muffler, I forgot to mention that one to him. That would require pulling the boat correct? If so, that might have to be one of the last things we look at.
On the discharge and blockage anywhere else, what I meant was, at idle they look to be the same flow. On plane going down the river, I'm not so sure.
I haven't been down to the boat to re-install the RWP yet. It has a brand new cam plate as the old one was about half worn. I'm praying that is the reason that under load above 2.5 to 3k rpm it starts to creep up to 190ish, was a weak RWP due to the half worn cam plate.
After I get the RWP, trans cooler, fluids etc re-installed. We will be going on a sea trail using an IR gun to get a real temp reading.
Here is the thing. when we winterized the engines last year, we pulled the intake hose off the seacock and put that hose in a 5g bucket. Put a garden hose in said 5g bucket and filled it to the top. started the engine and idled, the garden hose could just barley keep up at idle, but when he revved up the engine you could see a noticeable difference in how much water was "slurped" out of the 5g bucket each time he goosed the engine compared to the port engine. I hope I explained that correctly. That's why I'm praying it was the Cam plate. In my case I'm hoping no blockages, and I just had a weak pump.
If I still have issues, I will try the clear hose.
My seacocks all function and are smooth. I opened the seacock but with the intake hose still attached and just bent the hose over (below the water line) and it started to flood the hose and pour out the end into the bilge. I will remove the hose and open it and see what it looks like on both engines and compare.
Thanks for the replies I appreciate it! I hope I touched on all your questions.