I own a 2006 560 and my fresh water pressure has failed. What would be the best replacement pump?

Hey guys and gals! I live in a area where the waters can get up in the 90’s and it’s caused Generator overheating shutting down year after year for me in my 350 Mariner. I’ve been told that the factory heat exchanger was just not big enough for water this warm. I purchased a secondary water to water heat exchanger which I located outside of the generator housing, this not only allowed for a better cooling it also added almost another 1/2 gallon of antifreeze to the closed loop system. I’ll attach a few photos and the results I got .... I was very excited with a 70 deg reduction in heat and that was before the water hit the factory heat exchanger.

Hello just wanted to introduce myself I just bought my first Carver, a 1989 2357 Montego and I am extremely excited to learn everything I can about it! My names Chris and I hope to make a lot of friends on here who hopefully I can meet on the water some day!

I was looking at purchasing 1993 Carver 350 Aft Cabin. On the interior walls inside the v-birth is some material that was applied that looks like a very short nap carpet. It was applied all around the window areas and walls. At one time the owner said someone left the port light open and allowed water to run in. Possibly true, but the stains are significant and not just around the port light opening. They are nearly the whole length of the port side wall and on one of the curtains. I suspect at on time there was a more serious leak somewhere. It is dry there now. The material is sort of a whitish color very short napped, and feels like it was applied over a thin layer of padding. The stains are brownish in color. My question is has anyone experienced this and more importantly do you know if it can be cleaned? If so how was the cleaning process performed? The stains, per the owner were there prior to his buying a couple years ago, so I'm certain are quite set in. If they can't be cleaned is there a dying method that could be applied to hide the brownish discoloration?

Hello from Cumming, Georgia. We just purchased the Carver 400 and excited to join the Carver community.

OK, I'm not seeing any engine room lights on my 356. Owners manual says I have them and there are 2 switches in the galley I assume would turn them on and off. Where are they hidden?

Unfortunately the unthinkable happened!
The transmission oil cooler failed and I have a tranny that has to be replaced.
I had come back from a 2 hr cruise and checked the oil levels on the transmissions. The port side required 1/2 quart while the starboard read empty. I checked again and did not get a read so I tried adding fluid. As I was adding, the fluid was finding its way to the bilge and I knew something unfortunate was going on. My mechanic came down and determined that the fluid was not leaking out but rather the tranny was filled with water and the fluid had no where to go. Per the area marine transmission specialist, I pumped out the water, filled to top with fluid and flushed 2x going into forward and reverse. It seemed to be working and thought that I dodged a bullet.
I took her out for a run in order to change the fluid yet again but after about 20 minutes, it quit.
How does one avoid this mess in the future? Do any of you folks preemptively change the oil coolers for both transmissions and engines? I owned my last boat for 19 years, never changed the coolers and never had an issue.
All I know is that the lousy $140.00 oil cooler is gonna cost me about 5K!
I would be interested in knowing how you guys approach this.
Thanks.

Hi! New Carlingtonswitch breaker (left) does not match the connections on the old one (right). The new one has wider plates on it which the old connections don’t fit on to. This panel has the bus bar thing on it that connects all the breakers with a single metal bar, so modifying it to work is a PITA. I’ve looked everywhere. Does Carlingtonswitch have a different 10amp part number with the old, smaller plates, connection types on it? Thanks

Hi! The drama continues. I was on shore power using a heat gun to shrink wrap some butt connectors and the main AC breaker tripped. It tripped again when I tried to turn it back on. I turned off all breakers in that circuit and tried the main again, and it stays on. I show 120v when doing that. If I turn on ANY breaker in that circuit, even if it’s not being used, the main breaker trips again. I did that all on shore power. As a test, I started the gen set, and tried switching to ship power. Everything works fine on ship power. Breakers all work. I do the same sequence for shore power again and it still doesn’t work, does the same thing. Uuuh, what do I do now? Is the switch that controls ship/off/shore power bad now or something?

I had the marine air conditioning guy out to my boat yesterday. After checking everything out the diagnosis is the electronic card that controls the unit is bad.

We headed up to a local marine store. He had me order a new card and a new thermostat. By my paying for it I did save some markup that he would have charged had he ordered the parts. My unit is a 1996 model Cruiseair. While I could have adapted the current thermostat to the new card I chose to get both new as like I said the unit is 22 years old. Also, there are some electronics in the thermostat.

He did make sure that the rest of the unit is functioning as it should. He jumpered out the electrical to by-pass the electronics. He did both running both the A/C and the heat cycle. Both cycles worked as they should. The A/C blew cold 54* air out the vent and the heat side worked too.

The parts cost $678.40 so that will be added to my how much I spent this season total. I was prepared to go possibly with a new unit but the old one is working as it should. The parts + labor will be less than a new unit. Fingers are crossed that this will fully repair the unit. Parts should be in hopefully next week. I could be sleeping aboard soon. It's just to warm aboard without the working A/C.

Of course I will have to pay for his labor once the job is complete. Probably another $400 to $500 depending on his hourly rate.

B.O.A.T. Break out another thousand.