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At the helm there are 4 fuel gauges representing the 4 fuel tanks. 2 are on the dash gauges and 2 are above the "regular gauges" and are separate gauges at the top of the helm by themselves (one on each side above the steering wheel).
Which gauges refer to what tank? I am looking at purchasing a 2005 444 and can't seem to find the answer.
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As part of the renaming ceremony for our new boat we have to remove the painted name on the stern. I’ve seen a video using EZ OFF oven cleaner. What do the experts here say? The name is being changed from Rememberance to Agradecido. Hopefully Neptune and Poseidon will approve.
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The end is near. My 2018 season is just about done. Wednesday was the beginning of the end. I traveled to the boat to remove some of the things I bring home for the winter. Today, Thursday, weather permitting I will travel over to the fuel dock and fuel up and pump out. I will take a short run up the river and back to burn off a bit of the fuel as I don't want to leave the tanks completely filled.
Got a late start launching at the end of June but all in all it was a good season. Before she gets wrapped up in her cocoon for the winter I have a few things yet to do. I winterize my fresh water system, head and holding tank and the shower sump. The engines and A/C-heat I leave to the pros.
A few more things to take home and then start counting down to spring launch. Hoping to haul out around or about November 1st.
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I am new to the forum and I just wanted to throw this out there for some feed back. I am very interested to find out what the typical fuel burn/speed over water ratio was for vessels similar to mine. Last year I took delivery of a 2006 Carver 44 CMY that is powered by twin Volvo Penta D6, 370 Hp. diesels. I went cruising on Georgian Bay for two weeks and I had an opportunity to run her on plane for hours on end, going from port to port. The maximum WOT for these engines is 3600 RPM's. I ran her on plane in the area of 3000 to 3100 RPM's. I found that I was averaging 20 miles an hour +-. I found that I had to trim the vessel "full bow down" to get to this speed and I felt that I would like to be able to bow down more as the aft seemed to be dragging to me. My fuel burn at this rate registered 30 GPH (American) on the EVC fuel flow meter.
When I left on the trip I was full of fuel both Port and Starboard, including the aux. tanks. I started burning the Aux. tanks first and at the above RPM I was getting 18.5 miles an hour. As the fuel burned and the weight became less, the vessel performed better, as expected. I have now decided to keep the Aux. tanks at 1/4 capacity to keep the weight down. I am interested to hear what other Carver 44 CMY, or similar, owners are experiencing under similar conditions. I have been told that these vessels are known to be heavy in the "aft" end, but I thought the extended hull under the cockpit would help get it out of the water. Thanks in advance. Looking forward to your responses.
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Was winterizing and went to drain the water heater. As usual I opened the drain valve and pulled the manual relief valve flap. No water was draining, nada, maybe a drop here and there at best. Found the manual relief valve handle to be very stiff so I unscrewed the valve, still no water, WTF. Shoved my finger into the hole only to find a bunch of oxidation crystals. Had to unscrew the water inlet line which did nothing and finally unscrewed the outlet which did the trick allowing the tank to empty. Figured the tank must be jam packed with oxidation crystals (aluminum corrosion)
Options....... remove tank, replace relief valve, remove heater element and try to wash out the corrosion/crystals. How long will it continue to function not knowing the depth of the corrosion before it springs a leak? Another thing I found out is you can buy an OPTIONAL magnesium sacrificial anode that would protect the tank form corrosion Of course this is not supplied when purchasing. Read this. http://www.onboardwithmarkcorke.com/on_ ... art-2.html
Looking at new tanks it does say this in the literature. "To protect against galvanic corrosion and extend tank life, use of a magnesium anode is highly recommended."
Bottom line is if you have a drain valve you most likely do not have an anode as the optional anode replaces the drain valve which requires removal to empty the tank since you no longer have a drain valve. Did find this though that has a valve built into the anode http://www.suremarineservice.com/Galley ... 1496661821 Will modify it by removing the petcock (valve) and replacing with a 1/4 turn ball valve and hose barb fitting so I can drain to shower sump like it was set up from the factory.
After 11 years of service I decided it is a good time to replace the tank and get an anode for long term protection being I have all winter to shop for a great deal.
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Hi members! Just winterized our boat, did all the ususal stuff, removed all 7 batteries. There was one, which I'm not sure what it does, It has, from the factory wiring saying "xtra battery". Anyone know what this is used for. Don't believe it is for the house system. Thanks.
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New to my 3207 and am wondering where the aft bilge pump is located and how I might gain access to it? I am not sure how old it is or if it is functioning. I will be bubbling in this winter season and would like to replace it.
Thanks in advance!
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View the latest post Attachment(s) Towdster V Towing device
Up for sale is a Towdster V towing device. I used this 3- 4 imes and it's in pretty good condition, maybe few scuffs/marks on the vinyl.
I was able to tow my waverunner with this, backup for anchoring and all it it worked great. I attached the ends with the rope to my cleats on swim platform. On the other I put the two shackles together and used a rope with a hockey puck. I drilled a hole through the hockey puck and put a knot on the line on the boat side then fed the line between the two shackles. This allowed me to tow on plane or at idle, I would just let the line out and the knot (stopped by hockey puck and hockey puck stopped by shackles) was adjusted to place the waverunner on the V of the wake. Ask if you have questions...
I also have a spare tension rope (internal to the tube I had purchased as a spare) that I never used and will include.
I paid $399 for this. $250 plus shipping.
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The wood inside of our boat is starting to mildew. When we leave for the weekend we have been leaving several windows slightly opened. It’s almost time to close her up for the winter. My question is what’s the best way to wash down the walls and what’s the best way to restore the wood without growing more mildew?
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