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My Carver 26 (recently bought, discovering many things) seems to have an Insta-trim boat leveler pump. The red cover is still there, but the bottom white part (reservoir?) is missing and I noticed a sharp corner in a pressure line... So that one has a disappointing history and does not work any more.
My question; is it worth to replace the pump or should I install a different type of trim tabs control (no pump, manual position, different brand pump)
general question: how does the trim tab and the heckdrive position trimming work together?
We will seldomly be able to go so fast to get her into plane but when I'm at it (overhaul everything) anyway, I'd like to do the job well. Within reasonable cost.
Any tips welcome.
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About our fuel tank: A carver 26 fly-bridge (1991 or so) , originally 2 petrol engines in it, after crossing the ocean to Europe, two Diesels were fitted.
The fuel tank is a 111 gallons 'skyline industries; model 46870-00' aluminium tank. In my boat this one is filled with diesel fuel. Unfortunately, some doofus seems to have spilled diesel fuel along the side (I suspect when trying to take out the fuel level meter, which requires removal of a fuel line) so the boat stinks.
Recor filters fitted with the transparent bottoms, pretty messy so that's to be cleaned soon. These may be originally there when the petrol engines were fitted?
Is this the original tank? is there a bilge pump underneath? Is there a way to access the space under the tank (perhaps through the engine bay? there is water tank mounted in front (full at the moment, working on that) so can't see the bulkhead untill it is removed).
If there is no connection between engine bay and petrol-tank-area-bilge, would it be an idea to drill a hole to be able to flush that bilge?
All thoughts welcome.
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Hi Can anyone help us with our just bought carver 3007 1981, it seems the engine cooling seacocks are stuck in the open position as is the head discharge seacock is too !
Any ideas how to free them ?
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Hi, all! Last season (2019) we bought a beautiful 1993 390 CPMY. We'd been out of boating for a few years, the last being a 1979 35" Viking. This summer, with Covid, our Carver was truly a blessing as a safe getaway....truly a home away from home.
This lovely boat is perfect for us, but does not have a genset. I did not use the genny on our Viking much, but it certainly came in handy every now and then (When we sold the boat the Crusaders had 1300 hours, the Kohler less than 400.) We do most of our boating here locally for outings in the Detroit waters, but have thoughts about longer trips next summer, Lakes Huron, Erie, maybe even over to Lake Michigan. The boat will be stored indoors, but in the water, this winter, as she was last winter. Likely will come out for a few days in the spring for a bottom paint and transducer install; we've actually never seen the bottom of this boat. She was at the Detroit Yacht Club when we bought her in June of 2019. We moved her just north of Detroit into Lake St Clair both last season and this season, and the same is planned for 2021.
Thoughts on whether it would be an insurmountable project to install a generator?
-where did an OEM genny fit in this boat? It has Crusaders under the floor in the salon. I don't see how anything else would fit in there and still leave room for my mechanic(or me) to work.
-the electrical panel is labelled, but no switch, just a plug to fill the spot
-used or new, and cost?
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View the latest post Attachment(s) Bonding Efficiency
When I took her out this past week (the boat...not the admiral!) there were circular 'stains' surrounding any thru-hull fittings. It is my understanding that this indicates a level of galvanic corrosion and poor grounding.
I employ the use of zinc anodes on the shafts, trim tabs, each of the engines and there is a stern 'block' of zinc. Last season I gave the latter a good tightening.
Question: Is there a 'sure-fire' way to determine if the 'green' bonding wires inside the boat are actually doing their job? Those wires are attached to all thru-hull components as well as the engines. I believe that they terminate aft at the zinc block.
A guy at the yard said my boat was the worst of the lot and he tells me there is definitely a grounding issue with the boat.
What say you? Thanks.
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I am taking my Carver 3607 1989 from Iowa (Mississippi mile marker 503) to Nashville. I am currently in Paducah needing a fuel pump. I was under the assumption with the Cumberland river not freezing - I would not need to winterize the boat and could use it through out the winter when nice weather approached the Nashville area (my son lives there - can keep an eye on the boat). I think I may assumed wrong, or at least need plans for an ugly cold period. All my research leads to these options: 1. Winterize the boat and give up on getting in boating this winter (I hate this option), 2. Winterize the boat and learn how to re-winterize when needed -sounds painful, but maybe it's not as bad as I think - only the engines would be needed - I can forgo the water system and generator. 3. Buy a safe type heater and make sure my son / someone checks on the boat - possibly install temp monitors (I am an IT guy so know this technology well). Opinions?
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Hi Carver Experts!
Can one of you tell me where to get an aft bench seat cover for my 1989 3467 Santego? The old cover is wearing out and I like to cover the seat when I leave the boat to keep the Spider POOH off of it as much as possible.
Thank you in advanced.
Sick of Spiders a.k.a. William
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I just got through replacing valve stem seals (puffing blue smoke on start up) on a 88’ crusader 454. 12 out of the 16 seals were split down the middle. Due to the oil leaking on top of the valves, I noticed a lot of sludge on the top of the intake valves. Guessing the exhaust valves may be the same. Does anybody have recommendations to clean these up? I’ve read some about Seafoam and Marvel Mystery Oil. Will it take care of itself after run a while?
Views: 75 • Comments: 3 • Write comments
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