New owner here... boat was already out of the water by the time we completed the purchase. Seller told me the AC water pump was bad and needed replaced. I want to pull the pump out to confirm it is defective. So couple of questions. What is the best way to test the pump now that we're in winter storage?

Also, how do i confirm that this pump is the original pump that came on the boat? Reson for the qustion is a buddy of mine has a 34' Silverton with a single AC unit and the pump he just replaced on his was 500gph. The one in my boat currently is only 300gph and, if i'm not mistaken, is supplying water to two AC units.

I'll try to attach a picture of my existing pump.





Is that enough volume for two AC units?


Boat is approx 2 hours from home, in storage, but they are winterizing tomorrow so i'm going up this weekend to grab the batteries and take some additional pics and measurements. White there I was going to pull the pump and check the strainer while i'm at it.

Fellow boaters

Looking for some guidance

I have 45ft aft cabin with a hardtop on aft deck, year 2000. A section of aft deck floor has a soft spot approximately 3x3ft square. The spot was soft when I purchased boat 4 years ago and has gotten worse since then. I believe the reason for damage was an ice machine which I have since removed. Fairly certain I dont have water entry anywhere now.

My plan is to drill a series of small holes, 1/4 inch approximately and apply a heater and fan in area for the next few weeks before haul out for winter storage. Hoping the air circulation will dry out some of the moisture. Planning to leave holes exposed until Ontario spring and then fill with resin.

I thought of working from the aft bedroom ceiling up but have heard it's difficult to replace the ceiling and have it look nice once you mess with it. It's a vinyl material that looks quite nice.

Has anyone done this?

I know I will have to patch holes, planning to do this with compound and then apply a non-skid paint.

Appreciate any guidance.

Thank-you

Hello Fellow boaters,

I have a 2000 Carver 350 Mariner and would like to add a Rudder Indicator. I was wondering what would be my best option for this.

Option 1 Simple: I was thinking I could just buy a Kus J-41006 Sending unit and then just hook it up to a analog Faria Gauge I have. My one question here is that I don't believe the KUS sending unit comes with a rod so I would have to purchase that separately? Any recommended ones? If I go this route I assume it is also possible to use a Garmin GRA 10 Adaptor later to use both the Gauge and have that information digitally on the NMEA 2000 network.

Option 2 Future proof: Would be to purchase a Garmin GRF- 10 Feedback Sensor (which I believe comes with a rod as well) however I am not sure how I could hook that up to my analog Faria Gauge? Ideal I would upgrade my electronics to have a digital display but not at this moment. So am I able to use the Garmin GRF-10 with an analog gauge or does it have to go to a digital display?

My Current Electronic Systems is a Garmin GPSMap 3210 and a GSD 21 for the Transducer. There is also a GMS 10 on board However I don't think anything is plugged into it.

Eventually I would like to have a whole NMEA 2000 network setup. So if you guys could let me know what option makes the most sense or any other tips you could recommend it would be greatly appreciated it. Thanks

Hi all, new owner of a 2004 Carver 360 Mariner with twin 5.7 MPI's.
Sea trial no problem. First hour and a half of drive home after purchase was perfect at 3,600 rpm. Both fuel tanks registered at 1/4 tank (125 gal each). At this point the starboard engine started stumbling badly and revs dropped way down. The captain thought that maybe the gage was incorrect and we were running out of fuel so we stumbled in on the port engine to get gas. Put in 60 gallons each tank and the gages both went back up to over 3/4. Started right up and we continued the voyage. Ran great again so we assumed problem solved. Ran another hour and the same thing happened. At this point we were only a few miles from home and we knew we had fuel so he dropped the throttle way down on starboard and ran 80% on port engine. After a couple more miles and nearing home port, the starboard engine started running smooth again. We ran the rest of the way at a reduced speed and got into port nicely.

Note: new fuel pumps and fuel coolers installed this past winter by P.O. Only about five hours this season.

I read through a lot of posts here and have seen several similar issues pointing to several solutions. What I'd like to hear opinions on is the best sequence to start the trouble shooting process. Possible ideas from what I've seen here and elsewhere:

1. Fuel Polish
2. Large particle filter/water seperator
3. Small particle filter before pump
4. Anti-siphon valve (not sure if I have one)
5. Fuel Vent tube
6. Fuel pressure
7. Something else?

Thanks.
RyDrew

Hello fellow boaters. I have a 2000 Carver 350 Mariner which came with an Engine Synchronizer Gauge. It also has a module which based on my research it is the Beede Twin Sync Module #931654. I search on google and this forum as well and it looks like these might be a discontinued items. A few people mentioned that they replaced it with something else but I couldn't find any details on what that something else is. So My questions is to all of those who have actually replaced the gauge and module what aftermarket solution are you using? Could I just get a new gauge and still use the old Module? I am not sure how to test the Module to see if it still works but I figured since the yacht is 25 yrs old It wouldn't be a bad idea to just replace both.

Thanks for taking the time and your input.

New to me 2004 360 Mariner
Has anyone figured out a trick to remove the Port side engine hatch? It will not clear the transom door hinge without sliding it to Starboard which only goes part way before getting squeezed by the curved cockpit. I'm 70 years old and really struggled to get it off.
The Starboard was no picnic either but I was able to hinge it up from the front resting the aft portion against the transom.
Thanks

Hi,
Brand new owner of a 2004 360 Mariner, and relative newbie to boating (4 years). Lots of stuff to learn on this boat which is significantly more complicated than my previous four winns 268 vista.
Can someone explain what the "accessory" battery switch in the salon cabinet, to the right of the sliding door? It only has on or off. My previous boat had a similar switch which had 4 positions..... On (to use and charge the starting battery by the alternator) Accessory (to use/charge the house battery) Parallel (to use both batteries to start) and Off.

1. What does this switch control? When should it be on/off.
2. Is there a similar switch like my old boat? (can the House Battery be used to start in an emergency or some other way to start when one batt is dead?
Thanks, and please be patient with me as I learn the boat.

If anyone knows where the forward head black water tank is located on a 1991 Carver 3607 Aft Cabin please let me know.

Thank you

I'm a "brand" new Carver 360 Mariner Owner and just learning the boat. The refrigerator only runs if the dc main and refer switch are on. It does not cut over to ac and stops running. Is it wired to one of the charger breakers (which was the case on my old Four Winns)? The 2 breakers only say "charger".
Thanks

I’m looking for info on a wired cockpit remote helm controller on a 2000 53’ Carver Voyager. We plugged the controller in and it doesn’t appear to operate at all. Not sure if there is an activation procedure that must be done at either helm or on the controller itself. Any info is appreciated!

Thanks