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View the latest post 2006 Carver 36 MY port side prop spins in neutral

My wife and I are looking at purchasing a 2006 Carver 36 MY with Gas engines, 8.1L Gii-F models. Our recent sea trial last Wednesday displayed a phenomenon. With both engines running but in neutral, the port side engine pop shaft turns, pulling the boat forward if your "idling" at the dock, or spinning in slow circle starboard if both motors running but in neutral.

The dry dock inspection showed starboard prop turned freely (motors off, trans in neutral) while the port side prop was stiff to turn. The initial thought was alignment, but now I'm questioning the transmission clutches.

Would this indicate a bad clutch pack? I know nothing about the internals of these transmissions, assuming they are a Volvo Penta version of Hurth ZF. Are they same for BB vs SB V8's?

There is 217hrs on the port engine but 229hrs on the starboard, does running one engine more than the other damage the transmission?

Is this a common issue? is there a "simple" typical fix?
Does the whole transmission need to be removed to be serviced? or can it be serviced in place?

thanks in advance for your insights and comments as the wife and I are trying to avoid a large money pit issue.

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View the latest post Attachment(s) Don't know why I never thought of this

I have raw water cooled engines, so every year I have to deal with the drain plugs. Well, I probably don't REALLY need to, if I wanted to flush enough coolant through there to make sure the blocks got enough. However, I always do. I used to put the antifreeze in first, then pull all the plugs out and recover most of it, but it would also let me know how much antifreeze made it to various parts of the engine and manifolds. Then, I migrated to pulling the plugs first, draining the water, then putting them back in and running the antifreeze through.

The 'outside' plugs on the block are hardest to get to. The fuel tanks are outboard of the engines, so to get to these plugs you have to lean over the engine and reach down and 'feel' for where the plug is and unscrew it blindly.

So, this year I changed the plugs out for hose barbs, and ran a hose between them. I put a hose-barb splice in the middle. To drain the block all you have to do is pull the splice apart, which is right near the front of the engine and both sides drain. Because I used a straight hose barb on each side, you can run a coat hanger or other flexible wire up the hose to make sure nothing (like rust) is plugging it and preventing any draining. It's also so much easier to re-capture if I need to... just put the hose ends in a bucket or tub.



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View the latest post Dripless Shaft Seal Maintenance?

My question is, what maintenance/preventative maintenance if any needs to be done to these. As far as I know they have never been touched since new. No leaks whatsoever.

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View the latest post Inlet Suction Hoses for Raw Water Pump

I’m not happy with my current inlet hose for sea water to the raw water pump. You can see from the (badly sketched) picture below what I’m dealing with.


Carver put the seacock just slightly to port from center and the pump is a little further to starboard from center. It used a molded hose (which I can’t identify) from the seacock to position “X” where the was a bronze coupler and from there to the water pump was a corrugated rubber hose that made the 180 degree bend. It kinked easily although I never seemed to have any overheating. The molded hose had seen better days as well, so I decided to replace them.

I got two hoses that fit from an auto-parts store but they are radiator hoses, probably upper ones as there is no coiled wire inside to prevent collapsing. I doubt they would collapse under normal use, but when I flushed the system with fresh water from my garden hose, it couldn’t keep up above an idle and I saw the seacock hose collapse. I also used a PCV coupler as the bronze one wouldn’t fit. I’m not sure why that was as everything seemed to be 1, ¼” hose. I don’t trust the PVC as it may degrade due to temperature extremes when the boat is stored for the winter.

Looking at the sketch, points “A” to “B” is in the horizontal plane and from “C” to “D” is in the vertical plane. “X” is where the coupler is.

Is there suction hose available that is flexible to make all these bends? Is there a 1, ¼” 180 barbed bronze U-tube to make the 180 degree bend? Should I replace the straight barbed fitting on the seacock with a 90 degree barbed fitting? Basically, I am open to any suggestions that doesn’t involve moving the seacock.

Any thoughts? Thank-you.

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View the latest post Winterizing without Sea Strainers

I thought I was smart and bought a Sea Flush funnel (seaflush.com) and now I see that there are no sea strainers on the raw water line coming into the boat. :censored: That makes this fancy funnel thingie all but useless for winterizing the engines. (should work ok for the AC and generator I hope)

So I have been scratching my head about winterizing for a week now and have to get on it because my pull out date is fast approaching.

The 1988 Santego has closed cooling, so the system works like this (I think :) The raw water comes in and goes straight to the Walter V-Drive and from there it goes to the transmission cooler on the way to the water circulator, where it goes through the engine heat exchangers and then out the exhaust.

I have read through the Walter info and the engine manual and there are suggestions to pull and drain everything. I was thinking rather than go through all that, can I not plumb in two Perko Flush Pro gizmo's into either raw water intake and then use the engine to draw antifreeze through everything and just leave it?

What do you guys think?

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View the latest post coolant in Volvo diesel engines

Marina tells us that we need the coolant replaced in our Volvo diesel 370 engines as currently the antifreeze protection is at -25 & -28...How many hours of labour should it take to replace coolant in both engines...Also, how many litres of coolant does each engine take..Thx..

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View the latest post 2005 444 CPMY fuel guages

At the helm there are 4 fuel gauges representing the 4 fuel tanks. 2 are on the dash gauges and 2 are above the "regular gauges" and are separate gauges at the top of the helm by themselves (one on each side above the steering wheel).
Which gauges refer to what tank? I am looking at purchasing a 2005 444 and can't seem to find the answer.

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View the latest post Attachment(s) First haul out with ourCarver

Sad, but what a summer!!! Thought I would share some photos with you guys.......

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View the latest post Boat’s Name Removal

As part of the renaming ceremony for our new boat we have to remove the painted name on the stern. I’ve seen a video using EZ OFF oven cleaner. What do the experts here say? The name is being changed from Rememberance to Agradecido. Hopefully Neptune and Poseidon will approve.

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View the latest post It's That Time

The end is near. My 2018 season is just about done. Wednesday was the beginning of the end. I traveled to the boat to remove some of the things I bring home for the winter. Today, Thursday, weather permitting I will travel over to the fuel dock and fuel up and pump out. I will take a short run up the river and back to burn off a bit of the fuel as I don't want to leave the tanks completely filled.

Got a late start launching at the end of June but all in all it was a good season. Before she gets wrapped up in her cocoon for the winter I have a few things yet to do. I winterize my fresh water system, head and holding tank and the shower sump. The engines and A/C-heat I leave to the pros.

A few more things to take home and then start counting down to spring launch. Hoping to haul out around or about November 1st.

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