Hello Carver Friends,
Please allow me to come aboard this forum to introduce myself and Dragon Monkey, my newly acquired 2001 Carver 396. We will celebrate our acquisition every year on Sept 19, already a significant national holiday. This is my first larger boat and is providing several learnings with many more to come.

As the third owner, I inherited unexpected modifications contributed by the previous owners. I am tracing six unmarked switches on the helm dashboard to determine what if anything they operate.

I look forward to gaining advice and sharing our experiences on the boat.

Regards,

Hello all. Only posting as a new topic bc after searching for a bit couldnt find anything in the list of engine problems that seemed to relate. If there’s a posting, feel free to point me there. Always appreciate the help from the forum.

Port engine on my vp 8.1 Gil-c gas engines has always been a bit slow to catch. Turns over fine. Sometimes I can get it to start by pushing the throttles (transmission disengaged) full forward or reverse and letting it sit for a bit. Lately it won’t start unless I break the fuel filter loose and dump it - or at least that’s the trick I’m currently using. So I was thinking maybe a batch of bad gas or gas with some water in it. Happens hot or cold so I don’t think it’s a vapor lock thing. I also recently changed the oil and fuel filters and after the change it fired right up.

Took the boat out yesterday and same thing - no start. Dumped the fuel filter and it started up. Ran for about 5 hours continuous at everything from idle to 3600 rpm and no issues. When I got back to the slip and tied up, after having the engines off for about 5-10 minutes I tried starting them up again right away just as a test. Not only did the port engine not start but I didn’t get the 2 beeps when I turned the key. I didn’t try the fuel filter trick but did pull the gas cap of the tank to see if I had any pressure issues - nothing. I do recall early on when this problem first started I pulled the cap and got a lot of suction.

Once in a blue moon I’ll have similar starting issues starboard but can usually get it to go with the throttle cycle. The only time it didn’t start, I found the fuel filter loose - but this was after a change and once tightened started right away.

Any suggestions on where to start looking for the issue would be most welcome. Clearly seems to be fuel supply related. Know the fuel pumps on these engines have an ‘inside paint’ issue but would think that would keep the engine from running at all.

Hello,
I have a 1989 Carver 4208. Looking for the forward hatch. Any recommedations . Thanks Kelly

Does anyone have a spare joystick for Volvo Penta QL thruster? If so, please let me know price.

Looking for a replacement rear seat or measurements for the wood cuts.

Hi everyone,

I’m hoping to tap into the experience of Carver owners here for some practical input.

I’m currently sourcing a boat on behalf of a friend — the arrangement is that I’ll help find a suitable vessel, get it seaworthy, and oversee its transport (or delivery) to the Turks & Caicos. Once there, it will mainly serve as a liveaboard in a marina (at extremely good rate for me when needed), with occasional local recreational use.

I’ve come across a Carver 42, which is mechanically well maintained but in need of some upgrades which I’ll carry out. It has Crusader petrol engines. On paper and in person, it’s in good shape, and the 42 is perfect for its intended liveaboard purpose.

However, I’m trying to gauge whether the trip from the Bahamas down to Turks & Caicos would be realistically feasible in this vessel. Shipping the boat is proving cost-prohibitive, and my preference would be to invest that budget into the boat itself on upgrades, systems, safety gear, etc. rather than on transport.

I would be using a professional delivery skipper, and a couple of experienced captains have expressed interest but I want to make sure it’s feasible generally speaking, before committing to the purchase, should I have to find a new skipper. The plan would be to make the run in multiple legs, taking the route with maximum possible fuel and marina stops, given the range limitations of a petrol-powered Carver 42.

Before we go any further, I’d really appreciate hearing from anyone who’s either:

1. Owned or delivered a similar Carver (particularly with Crusader gas engines) on longer passages,
2. Operated one extensively in the Caribbean or Bahamas, or
3. Has insight into sea-handling, and practical considerations for this kind of trip.

I’ve searched the forum (and others) as best I can, and obviously the boat lends itself to the Great Loop, but this one off trip is more demanding.

All input welcome. I’m not trying to push the limits, just looking to make an informed, safe, and cost-sensible decision.

Thanks in advance for any real-world advice!

CP

Anyone know what type/model number for the original vacuflush toilet in a 2006 466 MY? I need new seals. Thanks

Question for you all;

Has anyone ever seen this process used for cleaning your holding tanks? I'm considering doing it but do not want to damage anything. Our boat has 2 simple rules:

#1... Here
#2... On the shore.

That being said my level sensors are getting a little finicky and thought i'd try this before replacing them completely.

Holding Tank Descale Checklist – 72-Gallon System

This checklist details a safe descaling procedure for large marine holding tanks (approximately 72
gallons) using a diluted CLR solution. The goal is to loosen calcium and urine scale without damaging
sensors, seals, or plumbing.

Recommended Fill Level and Mix Ratio
For a 72-gallon tank, fill the tank only one-third to one-half full (≈25–30 gallons) with a diluted CLR
solution. This allows the mixture to contact most internal surfaces without risking overpressure or
prolonged sensor exposure.
Standard Mix: Combine 3 quarts of CLR with 30 gallons of water (approximately a 1:40 ratio).
This mixture effectively removes scale while remaining safe for plastic tanks, hoses, and seals.

Step 1 — Pump Out Completely
Empty the holding tank fully and, if available, rinse once with fresh water.
Step 2 — Add the Diluted CLR Mix
Add the CLR-water mixture via the deck pump-out port or toilet. Avoid filling the tank beyond 50%
capacity.
Step 3 — Soak and Agitate
Let the mixture sit for 30–60 minutes. If possible, operate the boat gently so the solution sloshes inside,
helping it reach tank walls and sensors.
Step 4 — Pump Out and Rinse
Pump out completely, then refill halfway with fresh water and pump out again to flush residual CLR.
Step 5 — Neutralize (Optional)
Pour a solution of 1 cup baking soda mixed in 2 gallons of water into the tank. Let sit 10 minutes, then
pump out again.
Step 6 — Final Rinse and Inspection
Flush once more with clean water. Check that tank level sensors now read accurately and that no odor
or scale remains.

Safety and Maintenance Notes
• Do not fill the entire 72-gallon tank with CLR solution — half full is sufficient.
• Do not allow the CLR mixture to sit overnight.
• Never mix CLR with bleach, enzymes, or any ammonia-based cleaners.
• Avoid soaking rubber seals, duckbill valves, or metal fittings directly in CLR.
• For stubborn buildup, consider marine-safe alternatives such as Rydlyme Marine or Dometic Tank
Cleaner.
Perform this procedure annually or whenever level sensors begin reading inaccurately. Following each
descale, use Dometic or Star Brite holding tank treatments monthly to prevent new deposits.

So the 25 year old fridge has died. In order to replace it I'm going to have to remove the main entry door (Hatch). I appears to be pretty straight forward. does anyone have any experience with this? Anything I should be aware of or mistakes to avoid?
Thanks

Anyone needs this,it Includes thread, hot knife, and other accessories

$500 shipped

dianesmallings@outlook.com