1989 3807 does anyone know where the seacock/through hull fitting is located for water intake to flush the forward head? I can see where it enters the wall but that's it.

I’m in the PNW and have a 1988 3297
Searching for new props
Shaft size 1.25
Thanks

Need to replace as in the picture. Not sure what it's proper name is and where I might source. Also, it's purpose and what the opening leads to. Can anyone assist?[

Hello everyone. this is my first large boat, 1993 carver 440 aft cabin, and i'm in need of guidance on what exactly needs to be on/ valves and breakers, to get underway. i got the sea valves to engines and genset. i'm thinking of the valves to the heads, a/c's etc. to add fuel to each tank, is there an isolation valve between the tank and fill port? does the water tank have an isolation valve too? when filling the water tank, is there an overboard vent to let you know it's full? waste tank pump outs on each side next to the fuel fill ports, do you have to pump each one or does one do both tanks?

thx,

2002 Carver 6.2mx Mercruisers

Twin 6.2 mx Mercs, stbd engine has a loud "hiss"?? Not sure if it has a air leak (Vaccume) or filter is dirty? Port engine sounds normal.

Any thoughts?

After 5-7min of the engines running (Blowers turned on) exhaust fumes enter the aft cabin making the co2 detector and the fume detector in the helm go off? All the exhaust/blower hoses seem tight on their fittings unless I am missing something? Any ideas?

2002 Carver 346
While steering, it goes from easy to hard, then back to easy, then back to hard? Any suggestions on what the issue could be?

Cheers

RE: 1996 Carver 325, 5.7L Crusaders, duel helm.

While underway, driving from the flybridge, 1600 RPMs (but I don' think that matters) the starboard oil pressure went full scale high. I checked the lower helm, starboard oil pressure at 25ish psi. My normal is 40 psi at idle, slightly higher with increase in RPMs. All indications on the port engine remained normal. Tapping the upper gauge caused the needle to jump all over, with no change at the lower helm. No low oil pressure light, and no check engine light illuminated. I believe this to be an indication problem, not a problem with the actual oil pressure.

My boat has VDO gauges. I worked with a VDO dealer, with the 30 year old gauge and part number in hand. My gauge is out of production, but they have the replacement which looks nearly identical and has the exact same spade type connectors on the back. So as to not cause a mismatch problem, I purchased 2 of the new VDO gauges. Installed both gauges, turned the key on and both gauges moved to full scale high. Thinking perhaps I also had an oil pressure sender problem, I purchased a new oil pressure sender from the marina parts counter. Although I have duel helms, there is only one wire to the sending unit. I did verify that the new sending unit is the unit for a duel helm application. With the new sending unit installed...same problem, both new gauges go full scale high when the key is turned on. With either the new, or old sending unit installed, the oil pressure indicated lower than normal at approx 25 psi. at both helms. Increasing RPMs the gauge would go down to about 20 psi, in stead of going up with increased RPMs. Thinking I may have crossed the wires when installing the gauges, I tried swapping the two leads on the back of the gauge (the third ground lead was obvious correct location) and the indications remained the same.

I'm stumped. From what I hear, duel helms can be tricky with some of this stuff. What am I missing. I value any input from the forum.
Regards,
Jeff

Hi y'all,

I've got a 36M with the factory 12,000 BTU AC unit under forward stateroom bed (Picture of it: https://photos.app.goo.gl/V5sdRhVm9bnfR1n49), and the blower motor is breathing it's last breaths as we speak. I was looking to see if anyone on here has done a blower replacement on one of these units, or something similar, and had any advice on what direction to go.

It appears to have some rivets holding the outlet into the rest of the assembly as well as some hex bolts on the edges. Is that all I have to remove in order to get the motor out?

Or would it make more sense to just replace the entire unit, given it's age?

Any input is greatly appreciated, thank you!

Here's a listing of what looks to be the same thing for reference: https://maxmarineoutlet.com/product/tay ... nditioner/

Please someone tell me I don't have to remove all of this to remove my shaft struts... The previous owner may have hit something under water. The shaft was slightly bent and I had the props refinished.. The new shaft went in but I had to lift it slightly to get it to align properly... Long story short it wobbles and shakes at anything above 1k rpm... This means there's an alignment issue

I did not change the cutlass bearings, I'm assuming since I had to lift slightly to seat the coupler to the transmission that something is out of alignment and since the engine never moved this has to be it... Im going to say possible the struts are possible bent. Unless this drama is caused by bad cutlass bearings. Anyway I'm going to assume the new shaft is probably bent again.. This time I'm going to replace the struts the bearings and the shaft. Getting to the strut bolts don't seem to be easy like the other side...