Hi fellas,
I have twin Volvo Penta 740b gas engines in my 1992 Carver 36 aft cabin. I managed to fresh water cool the engine itself, but cannot find the thermostat housing to cool the exhaust manifolds. Has anyone managed to fresh water cool the exhaust manifolds on these engines?
Thanks

Recent price reduction to $64,900.00

Spirit: The Carver 390 Cockpit Motor Yacht is one of the best layout for yachts in this size range. The cockpit gives easy access to the boat as well as a good position to handle lines. This particular 390 has the dual helm station so on bad weather days, you can still enjoy boating.

The aft cabin has its own access to the cockpit, which gives some privacy. If you have guest on board, they can make use of the forward Vee Berth with its own complete head. The galley is large for a boat this size with quick access to the Settee. The covered aft deck is plenty of room for several people to sit and enjoy the shade. The flybridge offers excellent visibility all around the boat, which helps with docking. Spirit is equipped with 500 pound St. Croix dinghy davits off the swim platform.

A nice feature is the 6’ 4” headroom in the main salon, which gives the boat a larger feel. The two AC units do a decent job of keeping the living areas cool. Carver does a good job of building in plenty of storage for longer trips.

Spirit is powered with twin very reliable Cummins 6BT 5.9L diesel motors. The Westerbeke 5KW genset with 3321hrs, allows you to enjoy an anchor out.

Garmin 4210 Chartplotter (upper and lower helms)
Garmin Fishfinder
Garmin 36 mile Radar
Garmin Autopilot with remote
JRC 3300 72 mile Radar
VHF Radios (upper and lower helms)
Boss Audio Bluetooth Receiver and Amplifier
Icemaker
Microwave
3 Burner Stove
Hot Water Heater
AC/DC Refridgerator/Freezer
2KW Inverter with four 6 volt golf cart batteries
400 watt Solar Panel
Raritan Crown Electric Heads
2 Holding Tanks with Overboard Discharge System
Cockpit Hot and Cold Shower
Spare set of props
1,000 lbs Windlass
It is easy to see why this model is popular with those interested in the Great Loop or traveling the ICW.

For More Details, please call Capt. Ross Wiltse at 630.699.5066

https://www.yachtworld.com/yacht/1993-carver-390-cockpit-motor-yacht-8806296/

Thanks for adding me! im interested in Carver trailerable cabin cruisers. im on Kentucky Lake.

I am looking for a replacement gas cap for a 2005 Carver 360 Mariner.

Hi All!

Our wonderful 3007 is for sale via Acaster Marine in York.

She's been meticulously maintained, serviced and renovated over the last 12 months.

She is "river ready" and comes fully furnished as per the pictures. Just hop aboard and have an adventure!!!

Full details on the listing : https://www.acastermarine.co.uk/motorbo ... 3007/11767

Does Anyone know how long the Shafts are?

Things are progressing on our 1998 405 AC. We’re really enjoying it and now I’m working on the little things that bug me. Nothing major, I’m the kind if it’s installed, I want it to work!!

So here’s what I’m troubleshooting now.

My Engine SYNC gauge was replaced within a couple months before we bought the boat. It’s never worked correctly. If I start the port engine first the sync gauge needle will go full port side. Then when I start the stdb engine the sync needle will center. I can move either throttle 200+ rpm more than the other and the needle barely moves. I’ve played with the throttles while underway and the sync gauge is useless. When I pulled the console cover off installing my NMEA network and stereo I looked at the wiring of the sync gauge. I don’t think it’s wired correctly?? There was some Engine Sync kit instructions folded and lying inside the console under the sync gauge. It appears the sync gauge is made by “VEETHREE”. The wires on the sync gauge are:

-one to the gauge light
-One to ground
-one to IGN source
-one to port tach
-one to Starboard tach

Here’s a pic of the rear of sync gauge:



Here’s a pic of the front of the Sync gauge:




The installation kit instructions I found inside the console refers to a “Module”, but the gauge is not connected to a module. It appears there’s a black box mounted inside the console under the sync gauge that’s probably OEM. Here’s a pic:



When I google the numbers on the black box it comes up with a “Beede”
Twin Sync Module Wiring Instructions.

So it looks like my Sync Gauge should be wired through a module but isn’t. I looked on VEETHREE web page and don’t see an analog sync gauge. I’ll call them tomorrow and talk to some tech guys.

Any input from you guys would be appreciated!!

Hello fellow Carvers!
We purchased this "used to be beautiful and we can bring her back to her glory" ol' girl in November of 2022. After literally hundreds of hours, we're nearly done!
We wanted to take a moment to share some "after pics" as the before pics would be just too dang much to handle!
Needless to say, we've done our best to truly touch every square inch of this ol' girl and put some much needed love back into her. We keep the boat in Osage Beach at Lake of the Ozarks and have found some great folks to help with those items out of our purview.
List of what had others help us with:
MANY many blisters professionally repaired on bottom of boat
Full bottom paint
Full gel coat buff and wax
Both props reshaped, buffed out
New bimini tops
New isinglass (not installed, but we have it)
New marine carpeting in aft deck and helm station
New upholstery on exterior areas
New helm station cover (not shown in picture)
New front window covers
List of what we (my wife and I) did:
All port hole windows repainted
All exterior teak completely redone
Windlass replaced (with new Good Windlass) and added a new Lewmar claw anchor
New aft deck furniture
New Garmin chart plotter
Caulked/siliconed exterior
Fully detailed helm station
Replaced all boat fenders with new 10x28
Replaced all docking lines with quality 5/8ths
Fully cleaned, prepped and polished ALL exterior stainless (man, it came back amazing!)
New LED daylight 12v lights
New LED nav, anchor lights
Interior
New 12v daylight lights everywhere
New 120v daylight lights everywhere
Sanded, primed, painted and epoxied all countertops
Removed all old wallpaper, prepped and painted a light tan/greige color
Removed ALL valances, curtains, soft-goods material, headboards, etc and replaced with brand new AND with new foam
New high-end foam mattresses front and rear with new bedding, etc
Replaced all interior "mirrored areas" with 3x6 inch beveled mirrors.
Replaced all interior carpet
Replaced hot water heater with 120v (non heat exchanger style) 20 gallon
Converted both motors to electric ignition; distributor cap, capacitor, rotor, plugs and wires
Replaced both tranny wax seals
New toilets front and aft
New fresh water pump
New ac main 1k GPH pump
New salon furniture
New mid-bilge pump with float lever
Refinished all teak/red mahogany
Replaced DC stereo system (aftermarket)

I'm sure there are many more items but that's good for now...here's some pics!

Hello all
Ok, so our new to us 1987 4207 has been a blessing of many fine things since we've taken possession this past winter. She's so close to her old self and we're enjoying all that we've accomplished with her along the way.
However, the AC system has been a tough nut to figure out. Yes, I did some searches throughout our wonderful forum and failed to find my current issue so please bare with me...

Original units front, salon and rear. Yes, they're old but when they're running, they run fine. Put out great, cool air. Fans work fine, seriously very surprising but yes, once up and running, they're fine.
They all slave off of the forward stateroom (from what I can tell) meaning that when you turn that one to start, it does indeed start the water pump.
A couple months back though, the whole thing was acting up meaning I would start from forward to back and yes, it's all pulling about 44 amps at the interior salon breaker so I know that's a bit high, but again, it's mostly from just being old. Anyway, it would run, they it would pop the main breaker on the salon panel. (not the other 4 sub breakers)
I'd wait a bit, start it up again, then it would run and then like 15 minutes later, it'd pop main again. Then I'd start with just the front. Here's the deal, I'd have the front going for literally 45 seconds and it would then stop.
I found out that the water pump was getting hot and barely running...like I pulled up the galley cover over it and could see that it was barely moving and smelled like it was burning up.
So, I replaced that there pump with a brand new (1000GPH) one and sure enough, it would do the same dang thing.

Therefore, I'm down to these potential issues???
1) I believe that once the ac units are up and running, they're fine. But, they may be too close to the limits of the 50 amp salon breaker so I should change that, correct?
2) Once that's done, is there a relay going from the front ac unit that tells the water pump to go on? If so, where? If so, do those go out? I'm assuming that what's been happening is that the front ac is saying "Hey water pump, go" And then the water pump is like "Hey, I'm brand new...BUT, I'm not getting the correct 'signal' so I'm going to stop and tell the front ac unit to turn off as well.
What else might it be?
Please help, it's hot and only getting hotter in these dog days of summer!

Starting to see more Starlinks on boats this year. There are 2 boats next to me on an island. One has his on the arch and the Sailboat has his on the picnic table. I took off my Satellite TV dome and sold it this spring before they become an unwanted item and replaced it with a Starlink after a trial period last year. Must say this is a great addition to any larger sized boat. Satellite TV domes will definitely go the way of the Dinosaurs shortly.