I have a 99 Carver with twin Mercruiser 7.4L MPI MIE V-8 gasoline naturally aspirated engine - 330hp SN- 0L303934 / 31 and a Garmin 8612xsv on board with a NEMA 20000 Network. I would like to see what pieces and parts I need to allow my Garmin to display information about the engines. I was told by bammarine.com that this is not possible using:

8M0165589 NMEA 2000 CAN-P SmartCraft Gateway 1-4 Engines
84-892323T01 SmartCraft Dual Engine Instrument Adapter
84-891957K01 CAN P Link Harness Assembly Dual

Question, is there another way to accomplish this task, another interface? I know when my boat was surveyed the guy hooked up a computer to get the hours, compression and a host of other information. I have looked through all the posts and also the Mercury website with no luck. Guess it could be under an obscure topic but, I hope someone else has done this and has the info I need.

Thanks. Any help or guidance would be greatly appreciated.

No laughing - On the breaker panel on our '98 445 most of the lights for the individual breakers are functional - dark when the breaker is off and green when the associated breaker is on. Some of the lights don't work - do you need to remove the entire panel to access the individual lights? Is it worth the effort? Seems like a decent chance of Murphy's Law (making it worse) by removing the entire panel. Does anyone have any experience with this?

Thanks!
Jay

Hi all - I'm also a member of Boat US and I get there magazine, in the most recent issue they talking about how to keep your black water holding tank clean. One of the bullet points described "shocking your holding tank". They didn't say with what (I assume bleach?). I have never heard of doing this, have any of you ever shocked your holding tank? If so, how did you do it and what did you use?

Thanks!
Jay

Whan we first bought this boat there was a runner over the galley table. We thought for design until we removed it and saw the large crack it was hiding. The crack was nearly across the entire table. I thought, I will just get new piece that matches it, no way. The styles have changed and no longer available. I found a local company that still does repairs through the 3M Dupont website and another local countertop maker / installer. See the attached pictures, AMAZING is all I can say. They told me the best they could do was 80% in the repair for $600 dollars. Well, that was the best $600 dollars I spent. See the photos in the One Drive folder:

https://1drv.ms/f/s!AsUXzq27eR2fgrY3dMC ... w?e=rbAyzU

Next, I had my vendor that polishes my boat for me do one area that had many scratches on it after I messed with it for a while be wet sanding with 240 and then 420 grit. He used some compound and WOW. I will have him redo the whole boat in the winter months.

Corian can look great again!

Finished Project pictures
https://1drv.ms/f/s!AsUXzq27eR2fgrYoXfa ... w?e=dsovR9

Earlier this year I went to the Atlanta boat show to ascertain what was the best flooring for the exterior portions of our Carver 406. We came out of there with a clear leader of Aqua Deck marine here locally. The material is a 7-millimeter-thick self-sticking solution. The salesperson (Ashley) I talked to (very knowledgeable) already had a template for a 405. She insisted that measuring with a laser is the best way forward as not all boats are created 100% equal. After seeing the finished product, I agree that shooting the decks with a laser gave me the best possible outcome. Also, deciding on the width of the design for the faux planks, we selected the 3” as the 2” on a nearly 14’ beam looked too busy and the 4” was too large aiming the swim platform look small. In the end, I think we made the right choice on the faux plank width. The color (see in pics) is beige with black highlights. They even made us a mat for boarding with the Boats name engraved on it. From placing the order to installation took about 5 weeks. The actual installation was done in one day.

Concerns:
I had a few concerns going into this venture, one of which was that this material would become very hot and not awesome for bare feet. This past weekend proved that does not get too hot. Now that may be the color that I picked or the material itself. Either way it was not bad on bare feet in the bright sun.
The other concern was it peeling up after some age and washing. So far after three months and three washes and a wax job no peeling has occurred to date. I see a few other boats on my dock that have used the same company and their aqua deck is roughly 2 years old and I see no peeling there either.

Pros:
The Aqua Deck looks terrific in my opinion and also provides a little cushion when walking across it barefooted. While this product is not inexpensive, I believe it is added value to the boat.
The detail around all of the hardware embedded in the top side of the boat has very detailed cut outs and tightly fit around each fitting.

Hope this is helpful.

Vendor I used was :
Aqua Marine Deck
Ashley 770.614.4417
1020 Parkway Industrial Park Drive
Suite A, Buford Georgia 30518
info@aquamarinedeck.com
https://www.aquamarinedeck.com/

Since I had Neon lights on my houseboats, I knew I needed to find a way to put Neon on this boat. Since the run distance was not as great as the houseboat, I got to use 24V model from Apollo LED

First was figuring out where to place the neon and then how to power them.

Pictures for this project are on One Drive here: https://1drv.ms/f/s!AsUXzq27eR2fgrViioG ... Q?e=vIyVvu

Brief Description:
I followed the indented outline on the ceiling part of the aft deck. I used the Flexible Bracket for LED NeonMax to allow for the natural curves and the 39" Bracket for LED NeonMax for the straight runs. Once the track was up on the ceiling (Screwed with small stainless-steel screws) Next, I had to decide either to make cuts to the Neon Strip or make it fit and I found a turn by the TV on each side ended up being the exact length I needed. Next power had to be addressed with a 120V / 24V 350watt output transformer. I needed an outlet and the best solution appeared to be the three cabinets on the Starboard wall that was used for a bar once upon a time. Outlets were already in place. The vented holes in place already made this easier to not worry about heat building up in the closed-door cabinet. Fishing the wire was easier than I thought and the next thing I knew many neighbors were asking about my lights as they loved them.

Shopping list for this project:
Qty SKU Product Description
2 SA-NMAX-RGB RGB LED NeonMax 24V 85W
9 SA-NMAX-BRACKET-39IN 39" Bracket for LED NeonMax 85W 24V DC
5 SA-NMAX-FLEX-BRACKET Flexible Bracket for LED NeonMax
1 SA-CTRL-100-TX-RX 8 Zone RGB-W LED Controller/Remote
1 SA-PS-24V-14A-350W LED Power Supply 24V-DC-350W
2 SA-NMAX-ENDCAP End Cap for LED NeonMax 85W 24V DC
1 SA-PROF-NEONIZER-GLUE 1oz Waterproofing Compound

P: 425-582-7533
SolidApollo.com

This project is a little on the expensive side (roughly $900 US dollars) of projects but well worth it for the overall look of the boat. I hope this was helpful.

Hello to all. I just took delivery of "new to me" 1999 Carver 406. I've only taken it out once. I hope this forum can help me as I take on this new adventure after retirement! Yes, I know, boats are expensive, but I already told my kids, the last check I write is going to bounce!!!! You only live once. I have questions, but I will try to post them in the appropriate category. My only request from you is please help. Any and all information, critique, and opinions are welcome. I look forward to making new friends.

I have a few posts that I have replied to over time and thought all of these would be helpful in one place.

When I purchased this boat in December of 22 every Bilge had water in it including those that didn't lead to a pump in the limber holes. Like under the black water tank in the master state room. These are the areas where I found leaks and repaired or replaced the parts and now have a completely dry hull:

Engines - On the port engine there was a leaky elbow on the bottom of the exhaust manifold for winterization. I purchased a new elbow and blue plug to fix that problem. On the flip side of the engine, there was another bad blue winterization plug that needed to be replaced. Since we live in in Georgia, I am pretty sure they will not be used as there are three bilge heaters on board. Same found on the starboard engine on the starboard side a leaky blue freeze plug.

Gray water pump - while underway I would consistently get water in the front bilge area. As it turns out on the Gray water pump out station in that bilge, there was a damaged check valve on the pump. The water was back feeding from outside and the lake water would fill it up to a point where it would overflow out the overflow hole on that unit. This was a crazy one and would have never thought this would be a problem, but I replaced the pump and the issue gone.

Water Heater - This leak was hard to find, I found a leak inside the water heater and not showing outside except for straight out the bottom through the wood an finding its way through the Linder? holes to the section behind the engine room and under the floor of the state room under the Black water tank. The boat has now been dry for four weeks but sitting in the slip. Now operating on Dock and or house water and the bilge is dry as a bone. I found this leak by sticking my hands below the wood sub floor with my camera and happened to see a single drop in the video. Further videos revealed many drips nonstop. Advice let the recording go when looking I missed this leak twice looking here allow for take extra time and let the camera capture a bit of time that's how I found one drop, which turned into multiples in a small area. Replaced leaking original Water heater from Model S1100 to the new S1200 Whale Seaward 11 Gallon Hot Water Heater W/Rear Heat Exchanger - Stainless Steel - 120v - 1500w Replace damaged wood and paint with Rustoleum Topside paint battleship gray gloss.

Rudders – Packing dripping. Found another small leak that would accumulate over time. The rudder packing gland.

Mufflers - on the 6" Exhaust hose going into the muffler on the outside of the boat dripping was taking place and falling where it was not hitting under the engine. Turns out both mufflers have cracks in the 6" entry flange. Awaiting replacement mufflers on order. They arrived on Monday this week and were installed along with new exhaust hose piping. The boat is slightly louder but dry as a bone.

Test run – Took the boat out 3 times this weekend for over an hour of cruise time and all speeds checking after each run everywhere. We also stayed out on our first overnight on the hook with this boat. It appears we only have water on the outside of our boat now. Dang that was many years of leaks.
Side note: a friend of mine on a 95 390 recently had his boat pulled for a myriad of issues but he took apart and re sealed the exhaust as it exited the boat. This fixed his water in his bilge.

Link to my pictures. https://1drv.ms/f/s!AsUXzq27eR2fgrVh-c3 ... Q?e=Ay0FZB I will leave this folder up forever and no password needed to view all pics and videos

Hope this is helpful.

Hi Folks
My friend and I are buying a boat between us, and were looking for an after cabin, island bed layout. We've seen a Carver 325 Aft Cabin, which we really like.

We have had smaller diesel engined boats before, and this Carver (like a lot of US boats) has twin gas / petrol engines. We were a bit concerned that the fuel consumption might be a bit scary with petrol.

Has anyone any experience of what we would expect from fuel consumption?

The boat has twin Volvo 5.8fi 265hp Petrol Engines on standard shaft drive.

The type of usage would be coastal, fair weather, and occasional trips between Scotland and Antrim coast Northern Ireland (22 miles). Speed and getting there in the fastest top speed time, isn't really a priority.

Thanks in advance for any advice
Alan

Appreciate your reading.
355 Aft Cabin. Electrical panel. Two polarity indicators/lights; red green.
Couple of boat electricians came out...did some buss and wiring repairs. 2 separate companies.
Here's where they don't agree. One says the indicators should flicker green meaning correct connections. Other guy says no...should be solid bright green always and these indicators should be replaced...old and worn out.
Been looking for replacements to no avail. Great Lakes Skipper..none. West Marine none, Boat Owners Wearhouse none..da da da..wanted to buy the same ones...plug and play and no drilling a larger opening.
So.. should the green light flicker or be solid green?
If solid...then apparently a flickering green means...what...issues?? Possible causes? All ground wires replaced. All buss connections replaced. Any corroded wires replaced. No bonding issues apparently according to the electricians.
Appreciate your thoughts and leads where to buy...