20 to 25 MPH winds, 2-3 seas. Just didn’t feel it. So we went and took her home. Rough getting out of the slip at marina, with wind and seas, Side Shifter did its job well. Sloppy coming down the Wareham River, then like magic……wind stopped and seas flattened out. I needed to try the port engine, as last fall I tuned it up and it started breaking up at 3200. I replaced the distributor cap with the old one to see if it was that. Once things smoothed out, brought it up to 3200, 3500, then WOT and she it 4100 with ease. I was running light. We always run heavy. Exhaust was totally out of the water. When we got into the Cape Cod Canal, things really smoothed out. Into Cohasset Narrows at the dreaded low tide, Some places are at 4.5’. Navigated it well and into the slip in ONE shot. Nice ride, just not long enough. NO canvas up so it was not a sail.

Hi fellas, for some reason the 1992 Carver 36 aft cabin we purchased, did not come with the wiring diagram for the 120volt power panel. Every other Carver we’ve owned had the wiring diagrams in the owners manual, but not this one. I’m looking for the part numbers for the little resistors, or whatever it is attached to the main breaker.
Thanks for any information!

Hello all,

I am thinking of adding a radar to my 3227 and am trying to figure out the best place to mount the antenna if I were to do so. As I see it there are several options.

1) Radar Arch - PRO: This would definitely be a stable mount and would provide a nice base to mount more lights as well as other equipment without really changing the design of the boat or require any major rebuilds. CON: This would be expensive coming in at about $2500-3000 for a cheap one. Additionally it would add height to the boat which could affect bridge clearance although with extra expense could be made to fold.

2) Flybridge Hard Top - PRO: This would increase the comfort of the flybridge from the elements and could serve as a platform to mount extra storage and accessories as well. CON: By far the most expensive option and would similar to the arch increase the height of the boat but it’s not likely to be able to be folded.

3) Post/Mast - PRO: This is less expensive than the full arch and just as stable and could be made to fold. CON: Less surface area for accessories than the arch and would likely have to be custom manufactured as the options I’ve been able to find so far are more for sailboats and just wouldn’t look right or mount easily as designed to the flybridge.

4) Bulkhead Mount to the front of the flybridge - PRO: This is by far the least expensive mount and doesn’t affect the height of the vessel at all. CON: Mounting this here would interfere with the antenna’s 360 degree field of view reducing it to about 180° to 200° instead.

For those who have added radar where have you mounted the antenna and how well has that working for you?

Hi all, thanks in advance for any and all help.
Ok, so forward toilet...just working through de-winterizing everything. Boat was recently out of water getting new bottom paint and everything was fine.
Boat was put back in water, I go to see it, walk in the forward head and there's water on the floor and the toilet is full.
I looked below the generator where the water inlet is connected to the seacock and the tube is NOT connected there. (They disconnect them for the winter).
I'm only saying this as there's only one other place (that I can think of!) that would bring water into the toilet and that's the black water tank.
I don't know why or how but it's full. I can run the toilet (again, not currently hooked up to the seacock water inlet) and it drains the toilet bowl but an hour later, it's full again
Please help!!
Thank you

Hello,
I just purchased a 1990 Carver Montego 3257 and looking for help to understand fuel management on the boat. It has two Crusader 454s and two 95 Gallon fuel tanks on the port and starboard aft section of the boat. I have plenty of power boating (18 foot runabout) and Sailing experience but have never dealt with this type of setup before. I've been searching and have read the manual provided but instructions were a bit lacking. My question(s) are: do both engines draw from both tanks? If one is empty, do they both draw from the one with gas? I have the fuel gauge at the helm with a switch I can toggle to show me fuel levels between each tank but it returns to a central position after I let go, so not sure if that is switching fuel consumption to the tank or just letting me know the level in each tank. I've combed the web and this forum for an understanding but not finding the detail and functionality, so apologies if this has been covered somewhere.
Thanks for any info.
Erik

Hi Everyone,

My canvas on my 01 466 is come to the end of its life. I have to make a decision this summer on whether to simply replace with new canvas or try to attempt to build a hardtop. I am not a canvas fan and would love to have the hard top to add a few solar panels.
Has anyone done this and have some advice on what to and more important what not to do? I am thinking of using aluminum and powder coating it. Cheaper and lighter.

Thanks all!

Some questions on the DC switch panel



What is the difference between the Crown Head and the Electric Head here?

Just because there is a breaker doesn't necessarily mean that feature is installed right? There is definitely not a windlass on this boat unless it has been installed and removed.

Items in question:
* Water monitor
* Cockpit washdown pump

Thanks

This is in Canada. Just noticed Starlink roam (renamed from Starlink RV) dropped from $760 to $350 in Canada. Still will cost you $170 plus tax a month for the subscription but you can cancel and activate with no fees. Mine has been deactivated for the winter but will re-activate as soon as we hit the water. https://www.starlink.com/roam

Interesting, maybe a bunch of newbie boaters around that area in the next couple of years. Oh boy are those boats going to get banged up real quick. https://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/hamilton ... -1.6824819

I have a 1977 santa cruze and my steering cable attachment came loose. there's a ball like fitting that is clamped in a c-clamp fitting that provides a hard mount from the cable wire to the yoke that moves the motor. My question is, how tight does that c-clamp have to be and is grease applied to keep it somewhat flexible?

Thanks -
steve