TWO of teh tasks I hate most….Waxing and bottom painting. BUT they are done. I just cant pay someone what teh marina charges for these two. Together I was looking at $6500.00. Hoping I have time to redo the cat whiskers in teh aft head. But time will tell.

Hello. New to carver and would like some estimates /guess on the cruising range of the 2008 Mariner 36. Crusader. Gas 5.7 330 hp river and lakes at 80 % 4,000 rpm. 16 knots’.. loop prospects for us.

Ideas to increase speed range of this boat?

Thanks,
MJB

The marina didn’t “exercise” the packing nuts on shaft seals like I always ask. This year is a di$a$ter. The starboard would not budge. The port did but they were not happy with it. So, the had to unbolt the couplers, pull shafts back and whatever they did to get the shaft log out. I am just looking at it and saying if they had exercised it, then i would not be in thi$ predicament. At $172.00/hour, this is going to be expensive.

On a 444 what are the largest swells you all feel comfortable with+?
Thanks

Here's what I have:
2004 8.1 Volvo Penta gas engines with heat exchangers. Engines have about 1,050 hours on them, 800 of which were fresh water until around October 2022 when I started down the east coast ICW from NY to Florida, so maybe 250 hours in salt water. Engines run rock solid, no issues.

The conversation/concerns:
Another 356 in my marina just blew an engine. Topic of conversation is "when have the manifolds and risers/elbows been replaced?" For my boat, never. From the outside all manifolds/risers look great. Several people are telling me it's not an "engine hour" item of concern but a "calendar" item. Stating all manifolds and risers should be replaced every 3-5 years max regardless of run time. I've done some research online, e.g., BoatTest article states 3-5 yrs as well (or I'm just asking for a blown engine repair). I don't have the expertise to take on a job this size and would need to have a mechanic do it. A quick quote was offered of $5,500-6,000. I know it's a lot cheaper than a blown engine, however, if I can hold off for another year or so while in salt water I'd do it.
What is your personal experience with replacing manifolds/risers on a VOLVO gas engine with heat exchangers, etc.? What condition was your manifolds in when you pulled them? Did you think, wow, they look great. Could have gone another 5 years? Or was it more like, damn, got to them just in time. What was your time frame, e.g., 3 yrs and replaced? 20 yrs? Or like my boat, never.

Thanks in advance for all your input.
Bob

Looking for step by step instructions for an impeller change. Doing it for the first time. Thanks.

I think I mentioned this latest problem piggy back on another post, so I'll start fresh. Since pandemic, we been using the boat as weekend getaway on the water. Just to summarize where I am now and see if you guys can help me out as usual

Last season after bottom paint to start season that was the extend of our trip on the water from boatyard to our dock 50 feet away. We ran into engine problems. My trusty mechanic came by towards the end of season, did all checking and testing and we went out on the water and he found issue to be fuel line or fuel tank. And I always had port side issues from day one. Anyway assumption was fuel injectors, turned out they were fine, which is very good. Still cost a fortune but what can I do. So issue is this. as you are on your way all is fine to about 2k RPM. above 2-2.5K RPM tach start going crazy and engine starts losing power and if you continue cuts out. starts back fine and goes, but soon as you go over 2-2.5K RPM same problem. so he hooked up his own tank, no issues with tach or speed, we were up to about 24 knots. So he was bussy for rest of end of season, told me what I should do. He said blow air through the 2 hoses (1 coming from tank to switch, and one from switch to fuel filter on the engine. Since assumption is some thing is blocking the fuel flow at high speed, he said check all lines and the switch. If they are fine, he said it could be the fuel pickup in the tank. This makes sense as my tank was cleaned twice, but still there is stuff there. long story. So it's possible there may be something there blocking partially. He said I can also use compress air through the pickup line. And getting back to weekend, I went to try try these, but everything related is in a hard to get to place. So I basically started with simple step of removing the hose from engine side, and gently blew air into it by mouth, and heard the bubbling in the tank, I said that's great. so try to use compressor to get better flow, which worked for a second, then it stopped like tank or hose was blocked. so I waited 5-10 minutes and blew by mouth and heard bubbling in tank, try the compressor, air basically would not go because something was blocking it. So I gave up, am planning on trying the following next and let me know what you guys think?

1) I am going to remove the hose from engine side and tank side and try blowing air to make sure hoses are clear.
2) if they are clear, I am going to try to blow air into intake line it self. or should I remove the intake line and visually inspect and clean. I know some one here had mentioned in his case they had uses different metal for the in take line so he had rust.
And to do that I know I have to cut top off flooring to remove the intake line straight up.

Is this a good plan?

And why would air not go in constantly when I blow air in. Is the tank pressurized, is the pressure relief valve out side blocked? how to I clear that if so? Or I am thinking there is something that is in the intake valve that's not letting air back because it's blocked? Only way to see that is to obviously remove intake line. Any one done that, or anyone knows the part that I would need for 2000 carver 356 intake valve? I figure if I remove, mine as well put new one in?

Thanks to all

Have two Gen IV 454 ci 350 hp. Just replaced my port engine with new long block but was missing a box of parts needed to complete. Have acquired parts but before going any further need to know if engine requires a valley pan before intake manifold is installed? I will appreciate anyone’s response. Thank you. Vic

We are in the process of purchasing a 1999 530 Voyager. Any informatrion or brochures or specs that anyone has would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Have a set of Props 29x32.2 four blade nibral with 2.5 Bore.Came off 2006 56V Just had them trude up. There's some small pitin on blades There were done by Peden Prop Shop out of Luku MS. They said that little of pitin wood not affect the performance. $3200 Plus shipping. mctyrer@bellsouth.net