Well, I got my first call this season for a cracked block! All frost plugs popped out of both engines and one block cracked, so far. Of course the response was "Ya but I've been doing it that way for years and never had a problem." It worked until it didn't! Let the season begin! Well, kind of, not so much for this guy

Hi all,

I need to open the access port in order to repair or replace the sending unit for the level gauge. Is this a screw type port? If so, what type of tool can I use to open it? This is on a 1990 Santego 3467.

Thanks,
Barry

Our 3 burner Princess stove decided enough is enough. Well, after 21 years they don't male the same stove anymore. Every stove I could find would fall through the cutout. So, I had an aluminum plate made and powder coated. Then we got a 2 burner induction stove top from Lowes. I cut the middle out of the plate and dropped the stove in. I works very well.

Can anyone recommend a solid electrician in the Chattanooga area??

Thank you!

We are new Carver owners - 1993 Carver 390 CPMY.

We are in Atlanta but the Carver is in Chattanooga.

Looking for a master electrician in the area. We would really appreciate any recommendations.

Thank you!!

DOs anyone know the interior wood used on a 1994 390CPMY? Cherry? Teak? I need to get. Some to replace a faux pas!

Does anyone know the location of the Pump relay box for the air conditioning raw water pump on a 1999 Carver 530

I own a 2002 506. I believe it has the original refrigerators. They work fine but many of the brackets on the door shelves have broken. Does anyone have a lead on where I might get replacement brackets?

Thanks,

Brian

Pro active maintenance performed for the new boating season. Replaced impellers and orings for raw water circuits on both engines. Brass pump housing was smooth and clean on the interior, I also used a generous amount of silicone paste lubricant on the impeller.



Start port engine and expect to see flow out my exhaust port within 15-20 seconds, after 30 seconds no water. Waited another 20 seconds and shut engine down. Verified 1.Raw Water Thru hull is open and flow is unobstructed
2. Strainer free and clear

Removed the raw water pump and verified no issues with plumbing of hoses and new impeller and oring. All was still good.
2nd attempt to start and same result.

Closed raw water seacock, removed hose and connected a city water supply, started engine and after 15-20 seconds I can hear the muffler downstream of the exhaust manifolds filling and see exhaust water flowing. At this point I am thinking somehow the circuit was air bound and the pump could not overcome a pocket of air.
Re attach hose to thru hull, open thru hull, start motor and once again, no raw water after 45 seconds.

Out of frusrtation and day light burning I attempt the starboard motor and to my dismay same problem, but when city water was fed through the 1st hose after the thru hull, the water flows through and exits the exhaust port.

I am really scratching my head here, has anyone experienced any thing like this. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Hello All. Cooler is in the water! Launched yesterday. After installing the run dry impellers, I did get the port engine up to 220 at launch. Apparently an air lock in water system. The mechanic bled out some air in the intake hose, and then temp recovered. Still not where it should be, running at 180, but mechanic is going to replace thermostats. Feels like the old one may have crapped out when the engine got hot. Glad I had the run dry impellers in there, a standard impeller would have been in trouble spinning without water. Starboard engine ran 10 degrees cooler than previous at 150. Hope all is OK with the port engine. Did not trip thermo-breaker. er