Anyone
Please help me locate a sliding hatch lock for a 1989 Caver Allegra 2587. I have spent two years rebuilding this project and now I would like to finally locate the last item I need.
Thank you
Terry

Hi. After haul out fall 2020 port alum tank started to leak from an unseen site. Tank was full and appears to have pinhole leak about a cupful daily. Location is Mission Bay, San Diego. Plan local trips to San Diego Bay some nearby fishing. Mexico---No. May trip to Oceanside/Catalina. Boat is 1988 Aft Cabin 3807 with twin 454s. Thought we would replace 140 gal port tank with custom made alum smaller tanks made locally to avoid pulling engine and blackwater tank. Now I am advised this is not possible due to space. Have removed about 70 gal of gas and leak is slowed or stopped so plan is to do a cleanup and see if stopped. Then plan to run engines with blower going until port tank runs "empty". We have a tank manufacturer who has visited the boat and consulted.
After all considerations my current thought would be to totally empty tank of gas and fumes first. Then have the tank people remove the tank and have a custom made half size tank (70 or so gal) that will fit the space and can be used for gas needs and ballasting needs. Ballasting will not be perfect I realize due to smaller size. Additionally, the exhaust and manifold of the port engine can be moved and replaced without interfering with the engine alignment and minimize the cost.
Would love to hear some thoughts/suggestions.

Hello working on my 2004 Carver 36 and the engine compartment blowers are not getting power, I have power at the helm switch and cabin panel but no power to the blower motor themselves, I fed 12v with a power probe directly to the motor and the blower worked? So I checked the ground on the bus bar and it's good? So where could be the problem?

I have Cummins 6BTA s on my 1998 Carver 405.
Port engine ran hot coming from having it pulled for bottom painting. Found the impeller Shot with all the fins off. Out of my pay grade to finish it up right. Hired the local engine guy and he ended up needing to remove a motor mount to pull the water pump and after cooler and by doing this the shaft must be disconnected from the transmission just to be sure that it won’t get bent. I have read that Cummins should have thought this through before putting the motor mount THERE. Anyone else run into this?

I am interested in getting an autopilot system that will work with my Simrad Evo3 chart plotter for my 2000 396. I am finding it difficult to find detailed information related to installation. Is that because this is something you should not try and do yourself? I've pretty technically capable... That said I am not very knowledgeable on hydraulics, and I am having difficulty finding detailed information about how to install a net new autopilot, or even details about what brand/model steering system is even in my boat for that matter.... Can anyone point me to some reference materials? Tell me I am crazy and should suck up paying the $5k in labor, or otherwise help

So, I fired up both engines this weekend , tested the transmissions, and all seamed good. Tested the trim tabs on both sides and the did not seem to move down, the would move up slowly. Is there a procedure for testing these or is there anything I should be looking for. All this was down out of the water as the boat is still on blocks.

Jason

My new to me 2000 Carver 396 came with a Side Power 12v bow thruster which for most situations was adequate for docking, but the marina we are in has strong wind and currents, so I decided to add a stern thruster. This boat has extremely limited internal space at the transom so an most brands of thruster would not work. I opted for a dual 24v SideShift ST350 configuration to limit the needs for interior components.

Day 1, Out of the water!


The physical mounting of the thrusters through the transom was pretty straight forward other than some major contortion work to get my hands in to secure the back plates. The process of laying them out and installing them took about 5 hours total, and the installation kit was pretty complete. It came with two sets of bolts. One shorter all threaded and one longer with about ¼ of the bolt threaded. Murphy’s Law… I did end up needing to make run to the hardware store to get new bolts because hull thickness was in between the two sizes.

Day 2, Get these things mounted!


Wiring was a challenge. For the thrusters was a challenge, mostly because the instructions are a little too simplistic. Key take away if you decide to put these units in yourself…. This unit is controlled via the ground side of the circuit rather than the positive side. The diagram shows the ground wire from wireless receiver going to “common ground”. I connected it to the negative side of the battery which feeds the system and it did not work. I had to sleep on it to figure out what was wrong. The ground wire MUST! be connected to the ground lug of the motor control unit for the single to work. Here is my configuration. I ended up drawing this for the tech support people at Sideshift because of what I will explain next.

Days 3-4, Wire it up and try and make it look nice! (Don't forget trouble shooting....)


After everything was done the controls did not work. They were supposed to be factory programmed, but they were not.… I am not sure if I did it during the install or if they were not programmed when I received them. It took several conversations with them to get it sorted. If you hold the bow joystick to the right while connecting power it clears the programming. Their site has reasonably good instructions for single or bow and stern thrusters…. Murphy’s Law…. They didn’t work for me, because I have 2 stern thrusters and a bow. Here is the link to the instructions for single bow and single stern. (https://3bs9qa1fgvxs28kkjc10h4u9-wpengi ... -Stern.pdf) . If you have dual stern thrusters, follow the same process but instead of holding the bow joystick to the right and pressing the power button to program the stern, hold the stern joystick to the right and press the power button. This is not documented anywhere.

After everything was done the controls did not work. They were supposed to be factory programmed, but they were not.… I am not sure if I did it during the install or if they were not programmed when I received them. It took several conversations with them to get it sorted. If you hold the bow joystick to the right while connecting power it clears the programming. Their site has reasonably good instructions for single or bow and stern thrusters…. Murphy’s Law…. They didn’t work for me, because I have 2 stern thrusters and a bow. Here is the link to the instructions for single bow and single stern. (https://3bs9qa1fgvxs28kkjc10h4u9-wpengi ... -Stern.pdf) . If you have dual stern thrusters, follow the same process but instead of holding the bow joystick to the right and pressing the power button to program the stern, hold the stern joystick to the right and press the power button. This is not documented anywhere.

Day 5, Programming! (Don't forget trouble shooting....)


Got everything buttoned up, and I also add some underwater lights so my kids can see fish at night. I didn’t want to spend a ton of money on them though, so I decided to take a chance on the Husuku SOOP3 lights from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088GYJFP2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. They are really bright on land, but I haven’t tested them at night in the water yet. I will post an update after I get a chance to try them. I also used a wireless control unit that has a key fob so I didn’t have to try and fish wires up though boat. This thing works great! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JFH6VQH/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_5SKNTXJR172NPYW381P0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1.

Finished Product!

Guys, I'm sure this has been discussed before. I went to the boat to glue down my Sea Deck, I connected my city water hose to the boat. No pressure out of taps. Pressure , a lot, from the end of the hose but when I connected it to the boat, nada. I searched because I'm sure this has happened. Please enlighten me.
Mucho thanks, Andrew

Hi Everyone,

Last year I bought a 1989 32 Montego.
Everything worked great. We put the boat back in the water about 3 weeks ago and everything seemed to be ok... until I tried to turn the heat on.

Before flipping the A/C/heat breaker "on" I had the main breaket on panel 2 "on" and the volt gauge was reading 110 volts. As soon as I flipped the A/C/heat breaker panel 2 went dead and I can't get it back. I run a Y splitter to the shore power inlets at the boat since my dock only has one 30 amp plug, which has not been a problem before. I tried switching the Y splitter to see if the problem moved to panel 1. The problem was still panel 2 is dead. I removed the panel and checked voltage with a meter and I have no power to panel 2.

The wiring diagram I have from Carver shows "dual shore transfer relays". My question is... wouldn't I only have those if I had a generator? I do not have a generator.

Does anyone know if there are hidden breakers somewhere? I feel like I've looked in every spot but there must be something I'm missing.

Hi all,

While cleaning out my center bilge pump on my 3467 the hose cracked in several places (30+ year old plastic). The hose seems to be attached to a stringer by straps in an unaccessible location, under plywood beneath the couch. I tried passing a snake but could not get it to go all the way through. I looked with an inspection camera and could only get limited visualization. My friend said I should cut an inspection hole in the plywood, large enough to get a hand inside.

The hose to be replaced is the middle one in the picture.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Barry