Hello,
I need to find a replacement rudder port for a 28ft Mariner. The part number on the casting is 51232 but I'm coming up empty searching on-line. It's for an 1-1/4" shaft and by best measurement appears to be a 12 degree angle. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.

I'm a new Carver owner - 1986 36' - and batteries are not charging. Here is a shot of the starboard alternator. It looks shot to me and have a mechanic coming out 4/20, but what is the rectangular item wired to it? The regulator? See pic below

Spider Crack Repairs

As spider cracks are a universal issue (even on new boats), I thought I would start a thread on various ways to repair spider cracks that occur on boat decks.

This IS something you can do yourself.

Shallow cracks (gel coat only):

- Fill with a product called MagicEzy (made in Australia) https://magicezy.com/. I haven't tried this but have bought some and will post results of my experiment. With MagicEzy you just clean out the existing crack and fill. No dremmeling. No gelcoat afterward. There is also a video for an epoxy product called Araldite Standard (http://www.go-araldite.com/outside-the- ... r-standard) which demonstrates the same principle. Clean the heck out of the existing cracks using denatured alcohol, and press a long working-time epoxy down in the cracks with a plastic edge. Wipe off excess. Practical choice for large surface areas.

- Dremmel cracks (don't go beyond gel coat) a bit wider and fill with gelcoat. This is only practical for small areas.


Deeper cracks (into underlying fiberglass):

- Dremmel cracks into the fiberglass a bit wider and fill with epoxy to below the surface, properly prepare (wash and sand), and cover in gel coat

- Deeper cracks that appear to result from continuous stress (e.g. under ladder stanchions) should be reinforced from underneath with an additional layer of fiberglass roving and epoxy.

- For several or larger repairs on non-skid surfaces, a recommended suggestion is to roll on Kiwigrip (again from those innovative folks down under: https://www.pyiinc.com/KiwiGrip/) onto the entire non-skid area after repairing with epoxy. No need to deal with gelcoat, texture matching, color matching, etc. Recommended by a very good (and meticulous) marine surveyor.

Regarding gelcoat finishing:
This should be done with wet-sanding using soapy water. Surface should be prepared with 120 grit prior to applying gelcoat. After applying gelcoat, instructions generally start with 250-400 grit and finish with 1200-2000 grit, with at least two stages in between (i.e., increasingly finer grit). Polish, wax.



Regarding gelcoat repairs (i.e., matching gelcoat, applying gelcoat over a repair) I recommend the following videos. They are EXCELLENT.

1. Gelcoat Color Matching (Part 1)


2. Gelcoat Color Matching (Part 2)


3. How to Apply Gelcoat


4. Sanding Gelcoat

Good day to one and all. Looking to get an air purifier for our boat to operate while we are not there. Is it worth it? Maybe to keep it from being stuffy while not there. Any suggestions or am I just wasting my time thinking this.

I want the wood flooring look for the swim platform of my carver 36 mariner

Anyone know where I can get it? Can I do it myself

Has anyone removed and cleaned out the track for the salon sliding door. I have a 2004 466

I have a friend who wants to buy a 1986 32’ Montego in Detroit and have it shipped to Phoenix. Any suggestions on who to use? The boat does not come with a trailer.

New to owning a Carver. My previous boat was a 40' Regal cruiser. After docking in windy conditions I have decided a bow truster might be a good investment. Doing some research and came across the sideshift.

https://sideshift.com/products/monohull ... thrusters/

Has anyone used one of these? Seems like a good fit at a very good price.

There are other external thrusters on the market but this seems to be the clear winner.

Hello. I am pretty sure my V-drive low oil pressure warning switch is dead on my Carver 28 Voyager with Walter 26d. If i understand these correct the switch is closed under 2psi and the light is on and over 2psi the light turns off.

If i take the wires off the switch and put the leads together the light is on, Is this how it works and safe to say that the pressure switch is bad?. And now to the boring part, to get one of these shipped to me will be 100+$ with part+shipping+customs etc. has anyone used something else?, some aftermarket part that could work?.

If there is an alternetive maby i can get it in sweden

The part number seems to be: Indmar Part Number 903004S

Hello All,

Wondering if anyone has any recommendations on ideal plane RPM. What could be an expected speed at that RPM

Thanks