New to the forum and need a little help. We are under contract and had a ride on the Carver we intend to purchase. We were surprised that all four hour gauges had different hours on them. Anywhere from 40 to 600 hours on each. Broker said this was a common problem with Carvers. We are told we will be able to see actual hours during the survey. Broker also said it was probably some $15 relays that will fix the problem. Any knowledge on this or the cost to fix this problem?
One of the temperature gauges also not working.

I'm trying to decide if I've got a broken gas gauge on my flybridge or if it's not working by design. We've got the optional lower helm station in our 1995 325 Aft Cabin. The toggle switch for the gas tanks works to show fuel levels on the gauge at the lower helm. On the flybridge, there is a gas gauge, but there's no switch up there to toggle, and not even having someone toggle the switch below will activate it. I've looked behind both the switch and the bridge gauge to see if there was any obvious disconnected wire (haven't taken a look behind the lower gauge yet), but there doesn't appear to be any issues. I'm wondering if it was by design that if you have the optional lower helm, the gas gauge there is the only one that works, while Carver left an unattached one on the flybridge because it was cheaper than having a different layout.

I'm in the early stages of designing and building a new dash layout on the flybridge (a previous owner did a rather poor job replacing a panel when they installed a chartplotter). I'm considering removing that gauge entirely. I've got fuel flow sensors installed on both engines, so it's no longer a mystery as to how much gas I have left (installed AFTER an engine ran out of gas ). I might one day add a multifunctional display to have a dedicated and functional) fuel gauge, so removing the current gauge would provide more room on the dash. But I'm definitely not certain I'll do that, and I don't want a future owner of our boat cursing me out for doing something as stupid as removing what should have been a functional gas gauge.

Over time I have noticed that some of the levers on my interior doors are dropping down and seem to have lost their tension. I would like to fix them. Has anyone looked into this issue and was wondering if you could assist me in how to rectify the issue, short of replacing the door levers.

Thanks in advance

Greg

I will be draining all the old fuel out of my 3 tanks on my new to me 356, and I was thinking of using my endoscope to try to inspect the internals of the tanks while they are empty. I have read on the forums that the auxiliary tank is prone to corrosion and leaking. I was just wondering if anyone has had experience doing this and if it is worth while to do.

Jason

My 92 280 sedan has throttle levers on the bridge and inside, these are different types. The ones up top need adjusting: one drops by itself and the other one is a bit too rough to move smoothly. Didn't really find an adjustment screw or something like that at the back

Where do I adjust these cables, in the lever housing? or at the engine or both?

The ones at the inside stand are too tight: not smooth to adjust. Haven't taken their covers off yet though, there may be an adjusting screw there or some parts to lubricate a bit.

What is the usual way to approach this?

Some things came to mind when thinking about the continuity checks for the bonding system.....should be low ohm numbers when checking, higher readings will tell if there are corroded connections/bad wiring etc.

While you have the tester out, check your fuel fill bonding to ground ( applies to metal ports )....should also be low ohm reading, if there is NO continuity get the connections fixed before the next fuelling takes place. While you are there, closely inspect the sealing "O" ring on the cap......this can be a considerable port of entry for water to the fuel tanks if this seal is old/dried out etc....they are cheap and easy to replace, keep some spares as they may be the same on the water fill and pump outs.

Add some of your own maintenance checks that for the most part get missed ....

I was wondering if any Carver 4207 owners can confirm the actual LOA on a stock boat from Pulpit to end of Swim Platform, not including a dingy overhang which would vary based on boat and lift.

Appreciate it


Mark

Good morning fellow Carver owners. We are in the process of buying our first Carver. It is a 1992 43 CMY and is currently docked at the Harbor Lights Marina on Chickamauga Lake near Chattanooga TN. The boats name is
HameWith B .
Our intention is to cruise locally until the season is right and then join the Great Loop later this year. We are looking forward to meeting all of the other Loopers.

Leonard Seawell and Betty Smith

I removed all my shaft anodes to clean all the growth that was on them and most were pretty well gone. There was 5 on each shaft, is that to many or should I replace them all. It’s a 2001 356 7.2 Mercruisers. The hull anode is in good shape.

Jason

Greetings, we bought our first 88 Riviera in 1995 and moved to a 1989 Riv in 1999. Boat lives on the St. Lawrence River.
Look forward to participating in the forum.

Hank