My 2006 Carver 44 CMY is equipped with Volvo Penta D6-370 HP diesel engines and I wanted to find out what if any impact the weight of my 530 Lb Highfield dinghy and full aux. tanks had on the performance of my boat. Don't forget the YETI full of beer.

I was on a trip this summer up to the North Channel for two weeks and had an opportunity to run her on plane a fair amount. I left Killarney with full saddle and aux. tanks and my dinghy on the swim platform down to Parry Sound in open water. I ran her for 4 1/2 hours at 90% of WOT as recommended in the manual (3240 RPM's). I was running at 19.5 MPH, which I thought was a little low. In discussions with my fellow boaters I began to question whether or not my Turbo's were boosting up enough. In addition I also wondered if the weight of the dinghy and the fuel was impairing the performance of my boat. Still, 19.5 miles per hour on a 34,000 Lb +- boats is not bad.

This weekend I took the boat out with the Admiral and left the dinghy at the dock to see how the boat performed without it and to get some turbo readings from the EVC displays on the helm. I had 5/8's of fuel in my saddle tanks and about 3/8's fuel in my aux. tanks.

Here is the data from the exercise;

RPM's, Boost Port (psi), Boost Stbd (psi), IGPH, Speed (MPH)
1000, 0.3, 0.0, ?, 6,
1500, 1.2, 0.9, 3.43, 8.3,
2000, 4.1, 3.8, 8.05, 10.2,
2500, 12, 11, 14.4, 12.2,
3000, 21, 20, 21.5, 17.6,
3200, 23, 23, 25.4, 20.3,
3240, 24, 24, 26.2, 21.2, 90% of WOT
3600, 29, 30 (3630), ?, 26.2, WOT
(It appears that the structure of the chart looses spacing when submitted)

For the purpose of this exercise I used Canadian Gallons(IGPH) and Miles Per Hour(MPH)

As you can see I was able to achieve 3600 RPM's on the Port engine and 3630 RPM's on the Starboard engine at WOT. I did not capture the fuel burn at WOT, just forgot to I guess. When loaded up it can be a challenge to achieve 3600 RPM's at WOT with all the weight on the aft end.

I have to research the boost levels I achieved to see if they are within an acceptable range, but both engines were comparable except they were a bit off at the lower RPM's. From what I have read so far the levels seem within an acceptable range. It is also very clear to me that the weight of fuel and the dinghy does impact the speed that I am able to achieve while on plane. However, I only lost 1.7 MPH with full fuel and the dinghy, compared to the fuel on board at the time of the exercise.

When I purchased the boat in 2017I was able to attain 3600 RPM's at WOT and was traveling at 29.5 MPH. I was also able to attain approx. 23 MPH at 3200 RPM's at this time. At sea trial the water tanks were bone dry, fuel in the saddle tanks were just south of 1/2, the aux were about 1/4 full and no dinghy.

It is clear that fuel and the weight of the dinghy play a big roll in the speed and performance of this boat on plane. However, I believe it is within an acceptable range when on a long haul trip. It is worth the speed drop to have the luxury of the dinghy on board. When I purchased the dinghy I had the chord on my trim tabs extended 2" to compensate for the additional weight on the aft. I do believe that this assists in lifting the aft up and out of the water more.

I also believe that a big factor is the weight of the cockpit, swim platform and the aux tanks aft of the props which are situated in front of the transom. There is a lot hanging off the back of this boat.

I hope the results of this exercise assist some of you with any questions about performance of your 44 CMY and/or your Volvo D6-370 HP diesel engines.

I welcome questions and comments, as this is what this forum is all about.

Greg

I need some help identifying the windlass I have installed on my '95 355 Aft Cabin.
I think it's time for a replacement, but I'd like to know what this one is so I can research mounting configurations and minimize drilling and filling if possible.
Last year at the beginning of the season the rode and chain could be pulled up by the windlass. By the end of the season the rode would slip, and the chain would work fine. Now this year everything slips and I have to pull it by hand. Motor spins nicely, but I think the teeth or whatever grips the rode/chain is so worn out it just can't grab anything anymore.
Before I bought the boat the PO had something welded on the windlass according to my slip neighbor. I'm thinking that couldn't be a good thing. I don't see anything on the outside that has weld marks on it ,so I'm betting he did something inside.

I can't find any numbers on the motor other than P10153, which the googler tells me is a replacement motor for either an 800 or 1000 series, but didn't narrow it down enough to a model. There's no markings on the windlass itself. The only other thing that has a sticker with anything on it is the solenoid, but that didn't lead me anywhere either. It does have a horizontal motor.

Any help identifying this windlass and suggestions on a replacement are appreciated as always.

Hey all - permission to come aboard...

Not yet owner but looking for the right model for us, missus and various family and friends from time to time. We are inland water folk, mostly on Beaver lake in Arkansas...

Thanks and see you on forums.

Hi all. Just purchased a 2003 466 in August. So far very happy but working out various bugs.

I have the ZF transmission and electronic controller. At the helm, the lights on the transmission controls are always on. It’s not hurting anything, but just seems wrong. Does anyone have this condition and/or figured out how to get them to turn off?

Also, my engine sync and rudder gauge is not accurate. Has anyone solved this problem?

The air conditioning/heater seacocks are forward of the generator. Can they be accessed without Having to crawl through the engine compartment.

Figured I throw this out there since it is really practical. Most of us think big inverters however a couple of smaller ones can do the trick. My TV in the Aft Cabin died so I went to buy a new one. The possibilities for a decent small TV are rather slim, seems like they want you to buy at least a 32".There are 12vdc units out there but they all really suck big time not to mention they cost a lot of money for bad quality. Managed to find a 22" with streaming capabilities however 120V. No problem, use the existing 12v stock wiring and connect it to a mini inverter, plug in TV and you're done. These little guys are smaller than a pack of cigarettes. Have been using it for a couple of months now, no issue. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01H2U9DE4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This can be used for really anything requiring 120v as long as it draws no more than 150w. Plug into 12v socket and charge your laptop as an example or charge the Dyson. Better yet install this permanently where you keep your Dyson and it will always charge on the wall rack. How about plugging in your battery charger for your drill? Lots of stuff on the boat requires just a little juice as opposed to requiring a large inverter.

Complete Electro-scan Type 1 Sanitation System. Like new. Previous owner of our boat installed it but didn't use it. We moved the boat to Idaho and installed a holding tank and removed it since it wasn't legal to use here. $950 plus shipping. Delivery possible to Portland area. Our boat came from the Portland area and this was legal below Bonneville Dam. That is the one zone I'm familiar with. There may be other areas where treated waste is legal to discharge but I wouldn't know. Instruction manual is also included. Located in Boise, Id

Was out on the boat yesterday and was sitting at anchor for about seven hours. Did not use genset. Refrigerator, Raytheon c80 (no radar), vhf radio and radio (nothing special), were on the whole time. Several bathroom flushes, but that’s it. Went to turn on blowers and nothing (in fact draw made c80 turn off). Checked 12v meter in the panel and when blowers were turned on needle dropped down to 8v. Refrigerator draws 4.4ah and radio etc should draw less than 2ah. Battery is about a year old. Rated at 105ah c20. Battery hydrometer (?) was showing green. I had a problem with another battery not working right out of the box and had to return it. Battery charger showed charging at 3 amps last night and is at 0 this morning. After about an hour charging back at the dock, tried battery again running blowers and refrigerator (charger off) and it held a little above 12v for 5 minutes of testing.

Any thoughts or just another bad battery?

1987 3607 aft cabin, both engines are the same make and have about the same hours on them but my port engine has a deeper sound than my starboard engine, could this be due to my bridge helm is on the starboard side and is simply a percussion effect, boat docked to port is raised on a lift well out of the water. boat docked on starboard side is in the water
would that have an effect, Any other thought to explain would be help full and appreciated

Thank you,
RWS



r

I have a 1987 3706 aft cabin. the bow haul seems to always have a few inches of water in it. My shower box pump sits the middle of this canal and the auto belie pump is under the galley steps closer to the center of the boat. I can see how when running not on plane with nose up how the water could flow back to the auto pump. Do must find water in this location and what can be done to reduce it or laminate it?


Thank you for your help ,
RWS