Desired features:

+ As late as possible (2004-2006)
+ Hard top with preference for flybridge A/C
+ Bow & stern thrusters
+ Upper platform davit for dinghy
+ Well maintained Volvos and,
+ Bristol condition - of course!

My location: S. Florida -- open to candidates on the Gulf Coast, anywhere in Florida and the southeast through Virginia.

I thought I had scored, but need to check further. My 390CPMY with 454’s and Hurths, I buy 1 3/8”. Shaft zincs, and my one prop I replaced was 1 3/8” shaft. I bought a set of 22 x 21 props, as I need to get a higher WOT. However, looks like teh shafts bore is 1 1/4”. I am going to check against the prop I removed. However, my question, is a prop reconditioning shop able to bore out to 1 3/8” ( an additional 1/8”) if needed to use these? Just wondering, or I will probably resell these.

Hi everyone, I'm a new CYO member with my first Carver, a 1993 380 AC. LOVE this boat!

Bought it in Oct 2019 in Port Clinton, OH on Lake Erie. Took two full months to find a facility and to get on their schedule to remove the arch and hardtop, as well as, pull all the running gear out. Just a really bad time of year given that all the marinas were pulling and winterizing their customers. Finally, it was transported via tractor trailer and delivered in Dec 2019 on Friday the 13th... seamed a fitting date given the saga. There was absolutely no damage and all the connections were well marked. Now she's all put back together in the Pittsburgh, PA area.

She was missing the port side corner extrusion on the aft deck; from what I saw online, this is a common issue. Fortunately I have about 25 years experience managing fabrication and manufacturing facilities, and was able to reverse engineer the port side corner from the existing starboard side corner. Now I have drawings of both the starboard and port corners.

I had it fabricated from aluminum sheet and then powder coated. It turned out great! The small piece of acrylic that goes from the port corner to the swim deck ladder was also missing, so I made a new one. Having that corner properly closed up feels good and it looks great!

I wanted to share my purchase and disassembly experience in the event that someone needs help in the Port Clinton / Marble Head, OH area. Also, if anyone needs a new corner for their aft deck, I can help.

Salutations,

I have a 1998 Carver 350 MAriner with 350 Mercruiser Engines. I have a 4 bladed propellers.
I just did a new bottom and it appears that the previous owners removed the rope cutters.


QUESTION NUMBER 1:
What is the diameter of the propeller shaft? Inches and/or MM

QUESTION NUMBER 2:
Has anyone used a SALCA propeller rope cutter from SEA SHIELD MARINE?

THIS IS THEIR ADVERTISEMENT:

Dual protection below the waterline
The SALCA (Sacrificial Anode Line Cutter Assembly) is the first unit to combine a sacrificial anode and disc line-cutter to give you dual protection against corrosion and propeller entanglement. By combining an extremely durable stainless steel disc line cutter to our already reliable MIL-SPEC anodes we were able to eliminate the difficult installations and constant maintenance headaches associated with traditional line-cutters. With the SALCA, you get an all-in-one unit that’s easy to install, requires no maintenance, and is made with the highest quality materials.

QUESTION NUMBER 3:
Any other suggestions for a rope cutter?

THANK YOU

Greg

So my electric el cheapo horns died, they never did sound very loud to begin with. Went to buy new ones and then did something crazy. Instead of buying cheap poor sounding run of the mill electric horns for a couple hundred, I went with the creme de la creme which is Kahlenberg. https://www.kahlenberg.com/products/mar ... horns.html

This involves installing a mini compressor with tank, air hose, a switch and an air valve. Not complicated at all but my estimate is about $1600 when all is said and done. I tested the horns on the bench, holy $hit is all I can say. Nobody can miss me when I toot guaranteed.



I added this switch to the dash so the compressor can be turned on or off.



This will give you an idea of overall size, tank is about 18" long
.

Since I bought my boat, the bottom rung of the 4 step ladder on the port side of my 36 Mariner is broken/missing. This is a real hazard for anyone making the ascent. Does anyone know where I could source this, or a complete ladder assembly?

2000 Carver 356...

I replaced the batteries and charger with the identical units that came with the boat when purchased. The batteries have lost about 3 weeks now and will not start the boat. The charger was reading 14.2v on the readout, but is now reading 11.4. When attempting to start the boat, it reads 8.2. I can’t seem to pinpoint an exact issue because the charger is putting out 11volts it reads to the battery, and the batteries reads 11v each. Any idea why this sudden issue would be happening? The boat ran fine for years and was replaced identical to how it was, parts and all, but keeps dying?

This...

I have a 1990 3297 Mariner. First of all, I love this boat. with the cockpit floor lifted there's access to pretty much everything. My wife and I were able to pull the starboard fuel tank quite easily.

We got it repaired and back into the boat. We now need to pull the port tank for a similar repair. It looks like it will come out much more easily because of the shorter profile of the tank. The only problem is the forward strap that holds the tank down. It appears to be about 48" forward of the opening to the engine room almost exactly under the center of the dinette seat. It seems like the way these boats are built there's always a way to get to whatever needs work, but I'm at a total loss for how I'm supposed to remove and re-install this strap.

Has anyone ever pulled the port tank on one of these older mariners? Does anyone know how this is intended to be done? Any hints would be very much appreciated.

Does anyone know where I can get a door lock for a 1987 Mariner 3297?