Hello I found a timer beside the electrical panel on my Riviera 2807 made by paragon and if looks factory installed as it is in a real tight spot in the storage cabinet beside the electrical panel and I am wondering if anyone knows what it would be for. I could post a picture of it, if I knew how to do that on here...lol

Thanks In advance

Dave

Just purchased a 1990 32 aft cabin and after a 3 hour trip from Galveston to Clear lake I have water under the floor of the aft cabin it took about 48 hours for the water to be noticeable we had been running the AC quite a bit during the two days. anyone had anything similar and can offer some help we cant identify the source of the water.

Have a 2002, 57 ft Carver Voyager. Need 2, 4 inch Chesapeake multi gauges (oil, temp, volt, fuel) Faria has these gauges but only in 12 volt. We need 24 volt. Does anyone have a source for these gauges?

After disconnecting the marina water and turning the pump breaker on, the pump immediately starts. Similar to Marty's recent post but this is a new pump. The pump is pushing water, or trying to, into the hot water tank. The little collar on the pressure relief valve jingles. I tried running 2 hot water faucets, used the pressure relief valve, turned the breaker off and then on and the pump still ran.

I recently filled the tank to about 3/4 so I will check for debris at the filter.

Water systems can be a huge PITA.

Advice and/or comments welcome.

I have had an onboard water system leak in one of my water lines since late last season. I tried to locate a plumber who works on boats without success. Today I decided I would try to fix it.

I had come up with 2 possible fixes neither one of them professional. I was more or less going to jury rig a fix if that was possible.

Fix #1. I got a piece of hose and cut it to the length of the part of the line I was going to fix. It was the hot water line to the sink in the head area. I slit the hose and slid it around the leaking line. I then used some hose clamps and tightened them at tight as possible. Turned on the waterpump and no go. It was leaking although not as bad as without the "fix".

Fix #2. Bypass the line to the faucet completely. I cut the line in two places and removed the line from the faucet connection. I then inserted a piece of hose to the line running from the bilge and the line running to the shower hot water line. Double clamped the hose at both ends and turned on the pump.

Here we are one hour later and not a drip. Problem solved and leak fixed. It's not professional and I will tell any new potential owner about my jury rigged fix when the time comes to sell this boat.

It was a small tight area to work in, one of the reasons I decided to bypass not install a new line. It took a couple of hours or so to get the job done. I know that the engineers who design boats have to pack a lot of stuff into a 29' 10" hull but PLEASE try to make parts that need to be worked on a little more easy to access. If engineers had to work on boats I think they might make it easier for them to be worked on when things need to be fixed.

Problem hopefully fixed for now.

Hi, new member here. I used to have a 1990 3107 Montego and I am now looking at a 1993 350 Aft Cabin with twin Volvo's. There are not many of these around with diesels as far as I can tell. We are scheduling the survey and a Volvo tech has expressed concerns over maintenance because you cannot reach or see the front of the engines. So I wanted to ask if there is anybody here that has had experience with this Carver model with diesels - both positive and negative. Hoping to get as much information to help me ask the right questions during the survey.

I just purchased a 1997 Carver 350 Mariner and the anchor light bulb is missing from the pole on the arch. Anyone know what size the replacement bulb is and where I might get one. Thanks for any advise. Love our new to us boat!

Spent ANOTHER day in the bilge with the Kohler 6.5CZ9I MUST mention that the CZ is different from the others! I have bought parts for the 6.5GZ and they are different!) I have been looking for a governor spring forever, as they are NLA. However I found 3, and now own them. Genset was hunting all over and surging. I should have replaced the spring when I had the starter out, but it was not a bad replacement if you have the right tools, long nosed pliers and fingers you dont mind cutting. I went to replace the heat sensors, but of coursee different as they were for the GZ. (If anyone need a couple I will make a deal on them!) SO I removed the old ones and cleaned up with a wire brush so ther is good clean contact. Next the 20UF capacitor was replaced with the upgraded 25UF. Started her up and bingo. RPMS were WAY high as the new spring was tighter, putting out 135VAC and spinning at 3800. Factory states 3600 under load, and 3750 with no load to hit 60 cycles. EASY governor adjustment to dial in at 3600. SO far, she is running smooth, no surging and has not done the shut off thing as it was doing. Here are a few photos of my (so far) success.

The sliding companionway door on my 356 is hard to open and shut. I manage just fine, but my wife complains about it everytime she uses it.
Anyone know the secret to making it slide easier?

My vacation started when I got off Friday morning. Spending the next 9 days on the boat. Not sure if I will take the boat anywhere as the event I was scheduled to participate in was cancelled due to the Covid 19 situation. Was going to go to Middle Bass Island then South Bass Island for the regatta but thats not going to happen now.

Would still like to go to Put in Bay for a couple of days but they have recently become a bit of a Covid 19 hotspot with several people contracting it after spending time there. Not sure if I am going there or not. If I do it will be mid week and hopefully the crowds are a bit smaller.

Decisions, decisions. Of course I always have the jetski in my back pocket. It could get quite the workout over the next few days if I don't end up cruising somewhere.