Well, I finally took on a project to address the shower sumps. I have two, one for the fwd head and one for the aft. The original equipment was still working but it is loud and the fittings on the reservoir were starting to leak at the aft cabin so I decided to pull the unit out. Also figured I would service the pump, as it's been at least a decade since I last cleaned it out. I figured I might put new grommets on the mounting bolts, as the pump is pretty noisy and I thought it might help isolate better. All the equipment is original to the boat (1983) and until recently was running perfect.

Here's a pic of the fwd sump, but it's basically identical to the original aft sump before I pulled it out.

After getting it out and starting to price some parts (the reservoir needed new 'thru-hulls'), I decided just to replace the whole thing with an assembly. I can't believe how much some of the vendors are getting for these. I ended up buying a knock-off and putting it in. All the new ones have regular impeller-type pumps in them, so they all leave a level of water in the reservoir. My old pumps are diaphragm pumps and could suck the entire reservoir dry, but they did have a float so the float would shutoff before they were completely dry. I had debated for several years to add a push-button manual switch in parallel with the float, so you could run the pump for a few seconds to clear out that remaining water, but never did that.

Here is a pic of the install. Figured while I had it out I took out the mounting below the reservoir and cleaned and painted the whole compartment. After putting it in I realized it had to also replace the bolt that you use to pull the hatch, as it was too long and would hit the lid of the reservoir and not go flush to the floor. The old reservoir had no lid. The new pump is MUCH, MUCH quieter than the originals.

Hey guys and gals!
Have any of you replaced a motor? If so, any specific place or suggestions on where to buy one? I would love a drop in.

Where is the sump pump for the aft cabin shower? The panel breaker is tripped and will not reset.

Returning from an outing in a no wake zone at idle i lost control of the port drive. Motor ran fine, just no drive. Opened engine bay and found trans fluid all over the bilge. Boat dealer put a quart of trans fluid in the drive, tested and it worked fine. Have not been able to test and watch for leaks. Dealer is thinking it's the lower shaft seal.

Has anyone dealt with this? Can the seal be replaced while the boat is in the water? Is it a v-drive re-build situation?

Thanks in advance for any help...

My 1994 Carver 390CPMY has a Marine Air unit for the forward and also a digital panel, which I believe is the ECU (Now called they FX-Maxx) control. The inside temp is way off, by about 8 degrees. I have scoured the web for programming or an owners manual, but so far nothing. Does anyone have any documentation on this control?

I have 8.1 Volvo's with 600 hours in a 2003, 360 SS. The port engine runs hotter than It should. At one point it ran up to 240 on the gauge. I have replaced the raw water pump, flushed the raw water side with dock water, removed the end caps from the heat exchanger and flushed it. It still runs warmer than the starboard side. I understand the gauges aren't really calibrated on these and only show 100 and 240 on them. Just looking for more suggestions. It cools down once it the RPM is up over about 1,200. That can be tough in no wake zones!

Thanks

Hello All,

COMPLETELY new to this forum - nothing to mention of boating in general. Thanks in advance for your attention.

I have been looking for a family vessel now for quite some time - and have put down a purchase contract on one (via a broker - don't get me started on the "broker" as there is little I can do at this point.)

She is a 28', 1987 Riviera. (approx 32 LOA) Cosmetically she needs some work (but what 30+ year old boat does not), but her "bones" appear solid and she is equipped with dual Yanmar 4LH-DTE 170 HP (approx 450 hr each).

From everything I have read, not only are diesel engines better, but specifically these are good engines and with proper care and maintenance I could expect 8k-10k hours on them ... 5k, if I treated them horribly (which I will not).

With that being said, other than that, I'd like to know things that I might want to specifically look for. My family really wants this to happen (and so do I), but I need to know what I don't know. I do not mind doing some basic maintenance myself, and the family is also up for doing minor cosmetic work like sanding and staining on the wood work. The entire family appears to be on-board (pun intended) and all we want to do is cruise around the ICW here in SW FL.

This would be my first boat ever as an owner - but have basic skills from smaller boats over the years. I am also a certificated private pilot, so I'm fairly certain I can learn to handle the boat. Yes, I took the online boater safety class via the US Power Squadron and have received my card from the state.

Craigslist ad: https://fortmyers.craigslist.org/lee/bo ... 59781.html
PopYachts Ad: https://www.popyachts.com/motor-yachts- ... ?c=1363465

Pros? Cons? Things I should look for?

I see there is a mtg plate with 3 screws under the pluming lines. Are there any hidden impossible to get to?
THX

I have a 93 aft cabin model that I bought about a month ago, it has hydraulic steering and I think I need to add fluid to it (it doesn’t steer smoothly). From what I’ve seen, typically there is a nut on the steering column at the help, however I just don’t see one anywhere. Can someone give me any suggestions as to where to add the fluid.

On my boat we have Vacuflush system. It seems to work well. But I her it run every 7 to 10 minutes or so. Is this normal or should it run once and hold its vacuum?
I will probably rebuild it with new duck valves in the near future but asking just the same.

Thanks