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So recently my starboard engine on initial start up for the day is fine. If however I shut it down and go to start it again, it will start and stall, start and stall, unless I give the throttle bump up and back down, then it will start and run. I'm thinking IAC sensor or TPS sensor. Thinking that a previous owner had a couple cans of Carb Cleaner and tooth brushes in the dock box he regularly sprayed these sensors and tried to clean them? I attempted to remove them for a cleaning but it's impossible unless you remove the throttle body itself. Mind you that during the final winterization steps of the engines I will be checking, cleaning and changing the in line fuel filters, since I had some issues this year with the Oberg filters collecting some rusty matter, this along may be the issue. After looking at the break down diagram the only sensor that reads is the IAC that needs to be cleaned, the TPS just senses the throttle position if I'm looking at this right.
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So here is my dilemma. Boat is stored 2 hours away and not exactly accessible all winter long. I do have wifi on board to which an Arlo camera system is connected. Obviously I cannot leave this on since the house bank would be toast come spring. Problem on my boat is there is no way of hooking up to shore power unless there is 220v available which is not the case.
Ordered this for $30, maintenance charger that has built in wifi. https://www.ebay.com/p/Schulink-3amp-Wi ... 3007282918 Will hook up to my house bank and plug it into an available 110v outlet at the storage facility. This will allow me to monitor battery condition no matter where I am via my phone and allow the camera system to run. Tried hooking it up last night at home and connected it to wifi, looks like it is working great.
Link to what the APP looks like. https://www.batterychargers.com/en/schulink
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Have been looking lately and trying to decide on which brand 50amp charger to replace the old Charles from 2001 and came across this pro mariner 1250p.....Hans you are the online guy , is this price possible, it appears to be Cad .....seems really low, .$ 425.00....sorry the link I put doesn't work right to amazon .ca
Also the Victron is interesting, along with Mastervolt , just trying to find one that will basically do 2 banks and portion the full rated amps to the house bank if needed.
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My wife and I are new to larger boats and just purchased a 88' 3807. We noticed when idling at a stand still for any length of time that our Gas Fume Detector goes off. Its an older Scentry 415. We thought it was the CO detector because when out on our first cruise we did open the back door several times to get stuff and adjust the radio, and when we docked we smelled exhaust in our clothes when we got home. Turns out after exploring the engine compartments, I found the sensor mounted to a starboard stringer. It only would go off when idling while not moving. Put it in gear it would go off. I did also find that the starboard bilge fan closest to the sensor had its duct separated and laid off to the side, so it was ineffective. Did not notice any smell other than just a general mechanical smell. The bilge will be cleaned up soon, but its pretty clean already. Any thoughts? Should this be a concern or could it ba a combo of old or dirty sensor and inop'd exhaust fan???
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View the latest post Attachment(s) New to me 410 Sport Sedan
Just about to close on a 2002 410 Sport Sedan. We boat out of the Peterborough, Ontario, Canada area and spend most of our boating season traversing the Trent Sever Waterway.
We are coming off of a Cruisers 3650 with diesels that we loved. In one way, it seems like a step backwards with respect to the power plants however after just completing the oil changes, I can tell you the parts are less than half of my diesel expense.
We love the layout and size of the cockpit on the 410, definitely looking forward to having less stair than an aft cabin.
I’m really excited to be a part of the CYO group, lots of great info and advice.
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My wife and I are looking at purchasing a 2006 Carver 36 MY with Gas engines, 8.1L Gii-F models. Our recent sea trial last Wednesday displayed a phenomenon. With both engines running but in neutral, the port side engine pop shaft turns, pulling the boat forward if your "idling" at the dock, or spinning in slow circle starboard if both motors running but in neutral.
The dry dock inspection showed starboard prop turned freely (motors off, trans in neutral) while the port side prop was stiff to turn. The initial thought was alignment, but now I'm questioning the transmission clutches.
Would this indicate a bad clutch pack? I know nothing about the internals of these transmissions, assuming they are a Volvo Penta version of Hurth ZF. Are they same for BB vs SB V8's?
There is 217hrs on the port engine but 229hrs on the starboard, does running one engine more than the other damage the transmission?
Is this a common issue? is there a "simple" typical fix?
Does the whole transmission need to be removed to be serviced? or can it be serviced in place?
thanks in advance for your insights and comments as the wife and I are trying to avoid a large money pit issue.
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View the latest post Attachment(s) Don't know why I never thought of this
I have raw water cooled engines, so every year I have to deal with the drain plugs. Well, I probably don't REALLY need to, if I wanted to flush enough coolant through there to make sure the blocks got enough. However, I always do. I used to put the antifreeze in first, then pull all the plugs out and recover most of it, but it would also let me know how much antifreeze made it to various parts of the engine and manifolds. Then, I migrated to pulling the plugs first, draining the water, then putting them back in and running the antifreeze through.
The 'outside' plugs on the block are hardest to get to. The fuel tanks are outboard of the engines, so to get to these plugs you have to lean over the engine and reach down and 'feel' for where the plug is and unscrew it blindly.
So, this year I changed the plugs out for hose barbs, and ran a hose between them. I put a hose-barb splice in the middle. To drain the block all you have to do is pull the splice apart, which is right near the front of the engine and both sides drain. Because I used a straight hose barb on each side, you can run a coat hanger or other flexible wire up the hose to make sure nothing (like rust) is plugging it and preventing any draining. It's also so much easier to re-capture if I need to... just put the hose ends in a bucket or tub.
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