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View the latest post 89 Carver 2557 black water holding tank


I’m noticing smell and some leaking in between the 2 tanks on either side of the small access door in the floor. I’m wondering if anyone has dealt with the black water tank ? I’m thinking the carpet has to be pulled up and hopefully there’s a panel to open up. I’m also curious if anyone has replaced the sewer hoses. Any help or advice would be appreciated
John

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View the latest post Louvered Teak or Starboard - replacement doors.


If your interested in some replacement louvered Teak or Starboard doors, these are some of my latest creations...See below pics.

We are a sponsor on this site...you can either click on our link above in the forum header "Carver repairs & Maintenance" in the Project Center or go directly to:

http://www.louveredproductsunlimited.com

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Thanks,

Jim

Views: 1809  •  Comments: 1  •  Write comments [ Read all ]

View the latest post Bimini Top


Hi all

I'm having some canvas and eisinglass work done this off season and im having trouble finding an item. I have spacers and pads along the bimini frame where the canvas and glass touch. I have found the replacement clips, but cant find anything on the padding that covers the bimini tubes. it has become frustrating so any help would be great.

Views: 1944  •  Comments: 4  •  Write comments

View the latest post 530 Water tank replacement options


Hello All.
I have leaks on both my fresh water tanks along the top edges. Has anyone replaced their water tanks and if so where did you purchase them from. Were they similar in shape or did you go with straight rectangular tanks. Thanks very much Pat

Views: 4477  •  Comments: 12  •  Write comments

View the latest post Cummins 370 power loss.


Hello, My port engine has been losing power a little bit at time over the last year since I had my prop shafts and bearings replaced. It started with just a slight lag to the starboard engine and has progressively gotten worse over the past year. Now it maxs out at 1800 RPMs and boat cant get up on plane.

Runs very smooth, no smoke even under load at 1800 RPMs Motor will spool all the way up to 3000 RPMs in nuetral.

I have confirmed fuel tank is venting properly
I checked throttle cable travel and it matched the staboard engines
I replaced the engine fuel filter
The engine runs very smooth at all RPM ranges and does not smoke.

Views: 9379  •  Comments: 20  •  Write comments [ Read all ]

View the latest post Mufflers/exhausts


My 88 mariner 3297 mufflers are so loud I can’t stand it. It’s mostly at low rpm. Is this a low water volume or need new mufflers. Thanks

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View the latest post Attachment(s) Propeller shaft rotation drag?


I have a concern that my propeller shafts on my 1999 Carver Mariner 350 are encountering some sort of resistance and not spinning as freely as they should. Before you ask, yes they are clean and free of any kind of growth. The boat has only seen fresh water and has about 300 hours on it. I have compared the drag on my shafts to the same model boat in our marina, along with other inboard boats. Mine are much harder to turn. I can not turn the shafts of my boat by hand when it is in the water. I need to put a wrench between the bolts like a leaver to get it to turn. I am not experiencing any vibration, noise or clunks while they are in operation.

I thought it might be the alignment of the engines. With the propeller shafts unbolted from the V-drive and slid back about 1/4" the shafts where still very hard to turn. The V-drive is very easy to turn by hand with nothing attached. I checked the alignment and it is with in tolerances. The only thing left is the lip seals (where the shaft goes through the hull) and the cutlass bearing on the P bracket.

The boat is currently on the hard. The shafts are still harder to turn compared to the other boats around me. Yes the boat is in neutral. The P-brackets look straight and not bent. I was told the cutlass bearings would get looser as they where wearing out. What could be issue? Could it be the Cutlass bearing?

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View the latest post Maxwell 1200 windlass on 444cmy


I have no power to the windlass. My isolator cat breaker is located in the aft br. The isolator is the old “big red button” type. It does not move in or out. The breaker panel cannot be removed due to length of wires, so I have to get to it from the bilge. My fireboy suppression is in the way. I am a newbie so I don’t want to reinvent the wheel. Could someone tell me if 1) I am on the right path thinking the problem could be the breaker. 2) If yes, what is the easiest way to remove and will the new type breaker fit in the panel
Thanks
Jerry
Happy Ours 444 cmy
Ft Myers fl
Jnspick@citlink.net

Views: 2541  •  Comments: 4  •  Write comments [ Read all ]

View the latest post Attachment(s) Salon blinds


I am looking for a supplier for the 53' Voyager Pilothouse replacement blinds. Pulling my hair out. Carver no longer supplies them. Any suggestions on suppliers or changes for a new layout?

Views: 7280  •  Comments: 10  •  Write comments

View the latest post Water in starboard rear engine bilge


Hadn't been to the boat in a week was working on another project with my port engine overheating. Did notice a lot of water in the starboard bilge closer to the bow if that makes sense. I have a 350 Mariner and there are 2 separate bilges on either side and 2 in the middle. This weekend I'm going to use a pump to get all the water out and see if there is a leak. It wasn't there a week ago and we have had a ton of rain...wondering if that might be it? All the other bilge areas are fine except for the bilge on starboard side closer to the bow right below the cockpit. Could rain accumulate in that one area if it rained heavy for a few days??? What should I check for after I get all the water removed?

Thanks!!!

Rick

Views: 2129  •  Comments: 2  •  Write comments [ Read all ]




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