I have a '97 Carver 405 and in the aft stateroom there is a round rheostat knob next to the A/C control panel. I have no idea what it does. Any ideas? Thanks.

I am adding an accumulator tank to stop the surge and hot cold cycling, and i was wondering what size plumbing they used and if i need to use seatech fittings or if i can use some from lowes or home depot?

also, has anyone added a watermaker and what is the best place to install it?

my husband and I purchased a 1999 Carver 356. I feel like I'm pretty boat smart but this has me stumped. He is out of the country this summer and I decided to do some good spring cleaning. While cleaning the aft air conditioning ventsp I noticed the holding tank is full. Maybe 2 to 3 inches from the top. This explains A LOT since this is not our first Carver and our old Carver only had 1 tank that we didn't pump out more than about once a month. This boat is always full of Poo! I went back to the pump out station and pumped both tanks. I stopped several times to get the system to build up more suction but it seems like it is empty. When I go look however it is far from empty! I looked all through the mounds of paperwork that came in the Carver "suitcase" but all of the diagrams and schematics are on the 355 model and don't look anything like our layout. I was thinking of reasons this might happen and all I can come up with is thAt maybe the vent is blocked. Wouldn't the vent need to be open to suck out the poo? Doesn't air have to replace the contents? I looked for the air vent for the tank but I'm not sure which one it is? I tried to look for the air vent by following it from the tank but wow that space is small. The holding tank is literally an inch from the air return Everything else works fine with the sanatation system. Thanks for any thoughts. It's a gross thought to have so much crap in the boat that I can't get rid of!

I have a Bendix washer/dryer combo unit that does not seem to be getting any power. The circut breaker is on. Are there additional fuses some where?

Hi,
I've just bought a new to me 1996 Carver 500 CPMY.
Will be looking for lots of good advise for everyone.

Greetings all,

My wife and I recently bought a Carver 1998 380 Santego that had been in storage for 5 years. We are coming out of a 2003 Sea Ray 280 Sundancer (for sale) so there is a little bit of a difference. We splashed the new boat (Wanderlust) on Lake Sakakawea in North Dakota. Our lake is approx. 168 miles long and stretches from Pick City/Riverdale to Williston ND with over 600 miles of shoreline. The deepest spot is along the face of the Garrison Dam (which created the lake) and usually is around 195 feet depending on lake levels and outflows. Short season up here but a great time nonetheless. I love these forums and hope to visit often. I am a retired musician and love picking on the fly bridge with a nice cold beer or glass of wine.

If anyone is in ND, give a shout and we will go out together.

For those that have seen my post called "small boat big big project", my first shake down cruise last year was a success, but not without exposing problems and items that just need updates or modifications. I have to address list items before my second shakedown cruise this year, at this point I have 25 line items to address, some items are simple such as adding a small table/shelf close to lower helm so I can reach my coffee or binoculars without stretching to my reach limit, the item I am working on now is a little more involved but very important, I need to increase helm authority at slow speeds and in reverse!

The Titanic had a problem just like mine, not enough rudder, in some respects worse then mine. Titanic had one rudder behind the center shaft only, one problem with this that you never see on the documentary shows, is that the center shaft only turned when the ship was going forward using the other shafts, no reverse rotation ever, center shaft was a steam turbine that used the waste steam from the largest steam piston engines ever built to date! Ok so my giant 26 foot yacht has one small Mercury alpha gen 2 outdrive, fine for control at higher speed then I cruise at but not good at very low speeds such as mine. first I have allot of wandering at low speeds unless I put my large trim tabs down, then tracking is fine and no detectable speed loss as a result of tab position as I travel SLOW! I went threw 70 locks last year, I found as I approached the lock walls at slow speeds I had very little helm control and a long delay of what control I did have even with helm hard over.

The plan to fix the problem, first I figured I would just buy a set of Wander fins or Uncle Norms Orca fins to remedy the problem, they get good reviews for fixing bow wander and they help get your boat on plane faster! They are small so they can wok at high speeds. They are a good fit for most normal IO boats but my boat is anything but normal, the original empty weight of the 2667 was about 5400 lbs dry, 6200 with full gas and water, I am tipping the scales at just north of 8100 lbs wet but completely empty, I carry allot of equipment and supplies that adds considerably to this number. Heavy slow and a tiny little rudder, I gotta watch for ice bergs! I have decided to build my own set of flanking rudders (normally in front of props) for my out drive, similar to wander fins but much larger in every respect, I think this will work fine as my normal cruise speed is 6.1 MPH and max speed of around 9 MPH, I hope it eliminates bow wander so I can stop dragging the back of the boat with the trim tabs ( may get me up to 6.2 MPH )they should give me allot of helm at slow speeds and should take some load off of the hydraulic autopilot pump! Because of their size I am making them out of 1/4 inch high grade aluminum plate, sorry for all the verbiage but I am long winded! photos to follow soon

The past 3 years both front and rear holding tank monitors worked as designed. This year both are malfunctioning. The front unit lights green when empty, goes to amber and won't go beyond to red when full. This leads to an embarrasing situation on the dock if someone flushes that "one too many flush". The rear unit lights green when empty, doesn't light amber, but will light red when full. Seems to me there's a float problem in the front unit and a sensor problem in the rear. I've never had the "pleasure" of servicing these before. Looks like the unit is threaded into the top of the tank and there is lots of sealer (silicone?) around it. I imagine the rear unit could be a bulb or LED problem - not sure what's used. Any input on solutions is appretiated.

I'm looking for some more information on Carver Mariner 350 (2nd generation 1997-2003) TV Antenna Wire routing. I have several coax wires that come out of where the TV is in the main salon. One wire runs to the bedroom tv, One runs to the Antenna on the Arch, and One Runs to the transom for shore hookup.

I've separated all the wires and removed the splitter and a/b switch. I put a coax cable tester on my the wires to try to identify where they go. I was able to identify the wire that runs to the transom-shore hookup. That wire showed good with the tester. The other two wires, the wire running to the bedroom and the wire running to the antenna did not pass (showed a break or short).

How are the wires routed to the arch and bedroom?

As a side note: All the coax wire are disconnected and loos at the TV, but the Antenna light still lights up when the antenna is plugged in.

Hi, Looking to buy one of the smaller hatch covers for the forward deck of a 1985 3607. Believe that years either side of 1985 had the same hatch covers. Thanks.