I have been doing some work on the intake strainer for the AC systems. It sits horizontally instead of vertically like all other strainers. So, taking the cap off to clean the strainer drains a lot of water from the pump and lines. Additionally, just putting the cover back on creates an air lock when you open the seacock valve again. This necessitates "burping" the air out of the system by cracking open the filter cover and letting both air and water drain out until all the air is expelled.

So this post is not about burping the AC seacock filter, its about getting rid of the water that has now collected under the starboard engine (Crusader 350s though that makes no difference).

There are the two central stringers that run fore to aft with the batteries situated between them. The aft bilge pump is located in this space, just forward of the aft bulkhead.

However, the water is not collecting in this space. It is collecting under the starboard engine, to the outside of the starboard stringer.

How is this water supposed to be drained out?

Hi, does anyone know where I could find replacement for Sliding Salon door Thumb Latch Lever. The closest I could find is on Swisco, but that size is larger than the original, which measure 1.75" in diameter, as opposed to Swisco's 2" version...
https://www.swisco.com/Thumb-Latch/pd/P ... rts/82-100

Thanks for any feedback!
Kevin

In my 2005 Carver 41 Cockpit Motor Yacht Owner's Guide, I have two blank pages and want to know if someone with the same guide has these two blank pages. It is in Section 9, Warranty and Parts, 9.7.1 Hatches. The 9.7.1 Hatches page has a boat diagram of various hatches. Flipping the page, that page is blank and the corresponding page across from it is blank too. Then flipping the page again, that page shows Galley Hatch - Port Side and Galley Hatch - Center pictures. Can someone with this same guide tell me if their guide has blank pages or pictures. I am new to this boat and trying to familiarize myself with all the devices under floor hatches.

Any help would be appreciated.

Gerald

Read as many oil posts as I could before asking these questions.

Previous owner used Royal purple 10W–30 HPS in motors, motors have about 1560 hours each. Probably a good idea because of the higher zinc content in the HPS but I think the 30 weight in our hot summers is a little thin. Boat would never run below 45 degrees F. I have pretty much decided to go with Rotella 15w-40 just not sure which one. The GEN set calls for 10 W – 30 when any temperature is below 50°. He gave me about 7 quarts of the Royal purple, may use that in genset, the Kohler oil specified for this advertises added zinc so assuming these are flat tappets. Generator only has 322 hours. Not sure what oil is in it now, was done by local service shop. No record of what oil.

Anyone see a problem with either one of these oils for the described? Also anyone have recent numbers as to the zinc and phosphorus content of the different Rotella oils. Hopefully they’re all above about 1200 which should be fine for these motors I believe.

Thanks

Boat came with a radar dome but it was separate. The cable is there as are the mounting holes, but no bolts. Anybody possibly know what thread the bolts are?
Thanks,
Bob

The DC panel has two main breakers labeled: DC Main #1 and DC Main #2. But the battery switch only has one output, so what is the function of the two DC Main breakers?
Thanks,
Bob

I mentioned in my introduction that the boat had a dishwasher. Attached are a couple of photos. To the right of the dishwasher will be a pull out trashcan. The old door will be attached to the trashcan so when it is pushed in it will look just like the two original doors. Having some issues with the depth of the cabinet at the moment. I've done this on a previous boat but the manufacturer seems to have changed the slides somewhat, mechanically for the better but the dimensions have changed slightly. Might have to use one of the old ones from the house and use the bright and shiny new one at home.
Bob

Here is a simple and cheap DIY way of being alerted if the float switch or pump fails on the shower sump. I am sure all of you have found the sump overflowed and filled a substantial amount of water into the bilge at some point. Only way one notices is the shower does not drain as well so one tends to verify however usually way too late and most likely after multiple showers. This will prevent this from going unnoticed. a simple small float switch installed into the cover of the sump, a small piezo buzzer and hook up to the same 12v power supplying your sump bilge pump. Loud enough to be heard under the floor. The piezo draws only a few milliamps so no issue connecting directly to the float.

Float switch. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B08122CS3N?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Piezo Buzzer. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07HDYSY1V?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

I did add a waterproof connector however this is not required.

Morning fellow boaters! I’ve been wondering for awhile now about engine blowers. I’m very regimented on using them prior to starting for sure. Why would Carver wire them to be always on when ignition switch is on. Sometimes I turn them off not just because of the power grab they do but it makes the vessel so much quieter when docking. Any thoughts?

Just listed our 1995 Carver 310 (no Santego logos on it when I got it) on the Sacramento Craigslist. We're the third owners. Since new has been under cover in a marina. Currently at the Sacramento Yacht Club. Reason for selling is we want a Carver 366. Only 383 original hours. Very original in excellent condition. Crusader 350s with V-Drive. Many recent minor upgrades. Pls check CL for more details and pictures. $35,000. Call Mike any time between 9 - 9 Pacific time at 916-804-one nine six three for more details.