1996 380 Santego with Crusader 454 XL carbureted.

With the fuel valve in the on position and the fuel filter removed should fuel flow via gravity and help fill the filter?
I’m having issues on the starboard side and no fuel flow to the filter.. my Port side has constant flow that would easily fill & prime the filter???

I thought I had a fuel pump issue on starboard and was getting ready to replace it but decided to change the port side filter and ohm out both pumps… that’s when I discovered the fuel flow which I don’t have on the starboard side …. Obviously this bat is new to me and I’m no mechanic… I’m “learning “ thanks so much for your help!!

My 1993 300 Sedan no longer has the original Princess combination electric/alcohol cooktop. I installed a two burner LPG cooktop. See attached photo. I have not installed any gas fittings yet. It is my intention to use Flame King, refillable half-pound LPG canisters which will be under and a couple feet away from the cooktop. The canister will be attached to cut-off valve which then attaches to the regulator from which a 30-inch hose will connect to the unit. I know that propane has to be handled carefully. I also know that the ABYC rules permit using a canister inside if it is not over 8 ounces, and the rules also permit a one-pound canister inside if safely stored outside when not in use. I am a little confused about which regulator to get. The cooktop just says low pressure, 11 WC. Do these regulators vent? If any of you have rigged your galley similarly, your advice is appreciated.

Dusty

Hello all I am helping a good buddy get everything figured out on this new to him vessel. The boat has a 4cyl gas kohler generator. It apparantly hasent ran in 2 years. The boat runs great. I was messing with generator the other day and if I keep pumping the prime lever on the bottom of the mechanical fuel pump every 30 seconds or so the generator runs and sounds great... if you stop the engine dies on the generator. Another pump or 2 to prime and it fires right back up. I have primed it for almost 10 min or so and when you stop priming it shuts off. Bad fuel pump? Clogged vent? I am extatic at how well the gen motor sounds when it is running after sitting so long.

Thank you all.

Hi All!

Been snooping around the forums for while now learning the tricks of this boat, it's new to us later last summer. We upgraded from a 25' regal ambassador, absolutely loving the significantly larger size as well as ability to access nearly everything for maintenance (though the v-drives are going to be a pain to change the fluid).

I've already done a number of upgrades including replacing the outside teak ladders with plasteak. I like tinkering with electronics so also done a number of DC electrical upgrades including running a lightweight server on the boat to keep an eye on things such as battery voltage and fuel usage as well as having a local plex server.

I have 1999 Carver 356 Aft cabin. When running off of the 6.5 Kohler generator, I get a serious rattling noise from the breaker panel when the cruise air or any large amp appliance is turn on. Some times the a/c will kick on and some times it flakes out. Is this a generator problem or or what I think is a relay problem in the breaker box? At yhis time my generator only want to run one cruise air. The cruise air runs at about 13 amps in 120 volts when running but at start up it jumps to like 30 amps. That is when I hear all of the racket in the breaker box. Please advise.
Thanks,
David

When turned on the A/C unit pushes a lot of water under the cabinet where it is housed. The a/c unit is clean the pan is dry. Cannot get to anything else the unit is not in an ideal place. Trying to figure out where the water is coming from and why and how to fix it. I mean a lot of water when it is turned on. Thanks in advance. The manual I have is not helpful at all

Hi all,

I’m getting around to replacing our refrigerator and have a question on the model. I did a google search, searched Vitrifrigo’s website, and searched the forum and couldn’t find any info. It seems like Vitrifrigo is a pretty popular brand for replacement refrigerators so I’m hoping someone might have already looked into this.

I’ve narrowed it down to the C115iX OCX2 model, which should fit perfectly in our 325. There are two options for this model as far as how they run on AC and DC power.

The model ending in D3X-1 “Includes an AC converter module that converts 115/230V AC, 50/60Hz, to 24V DC so the product can be powered from an AC power source”. It also says “Power supply: 12/24V DC - 115-230V AC (60/50 Hz)
AC to DC converter required (included).”

I’m a little uneasy about it saying 24v DC but it seems as though it runs on 12v as well.

The model ending in D4X-1 comes with a “Dual electronic box 12/24V DC 100-240V AC 50/60Hz” and costs about $220 more.

Does anyone know the difference here, and is it worthwhile to spend $200+ more for the integrated dual box? I’m guessing the main difference might be that you need to have space to mount the converter, which shouldn’t be an issue for me, but I’m curious if there is a performance/efficiency difference or any other reason why the more expensive unit with the dual box is the way to go.

Here are the links to the models I’m considering:

https://defender.com/en_us/vitrifrigo-o ... 115ixd3x-1

https://defender.com/en_us/vitrifrigo-o ... 115ixd4x-1

Thank you!

What's the best way to fix these stripped mounting hole screws? They're for the covers for bins on the aft deck:

After a couple week, multiple cuts and twisted body. The Fire Boy has been mounted. There was truly no space to put this larger than HALON system. I finally did make some “l” brackets with 1 x 2 tubing. The length went right to the hull. I put them mounted with 4 holes drilled into the THICK fiberglass stringer and used 1/4” heavy duty molly bolts. By making the length to the bottom, it acts as a wedge and the 37lbs of the fireboy on it, keeps it down to the hull and truly does NOT budge . Since the spra is 180 degrees, I mounted it a tad off so it waill get the entire engine room. My old HALON is still in place, and it was a 350 cu ft. That size was not made, so this is a 375. Now, per USCG Regs, I am running the wires up to the bridge to mount the monitor. WHAT A JOURNEY!

I have 2 Vacuflush toilets in m 1998 Carver 355. I rebuilt the aft head latest year. New ball valve, bowl seals were done then. Bowl has leaked since.. Eeewww! So, today I replaced the water valve which has been dripping. I moved the bowl, so I think the clamp was loose. I pulled the bowl and found white crusty stuff n both rubber and Teflon gasket. Took them outside and scrubbed them clean. I lined up the notch and installed the thin one with smaller circle in the middle first with this side up, then the thick rubber seal with smaller hole on top, lining the notch. I put the plastic collar back on, centered the bowl, then cinched down the clamp. The bowl doesn’t move. The water is holding vacuum and pump shuts off. When I push the pedal down, some water seeps out at the bottom of the pedestal.

The model toilet I have is an 858. It’s 1998 vintage. I purchased the set without drain holes. I noticed the after year 2000 uses no drain holes. Is this my issue? Do I need drain holes?

Bruce