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View the latest post Apleco 530 deep sounder
- Posted by: Wkuhilltopperfan » June 27th, 2016, 9:31 pm
- Forum: General Repairs & Maintenance
My display has went bad on my Apelco 530 depth gauge and we are looking for either a replacement display or a compatible display to mate to the original transducer so I don't have to remove the boat from the water just to replace the transducer which is expensive as everybody knows. Any help on compatible displays or used 530's would be great. We don't use the plotter , only the depth gauge.
Thank you
Views: 2107 • Comments: 4 • Write comments
View the latest post Attachment(s) 2000 carver 356 aft cabin batteries
- Posted by: cpoint » June 27th, 2016, 11:24 am
- Forum: Electrical
I have noticed that when we are out for about an hour the carbon monoxide alarms start going off. This only happens when we are at sea, with generator off, and all AC items were on. So this time when it went off we powered down everything in cabin, except refig and alarm was silenced for about 10-15 minutes. But than it started again. Very annoying beeping. Does not do it when we are on shore power. I have noticed it seems to relate to battery. I also read elsewhere week battery could be the culprit. Also would I need to replace all batteries, or is it one of the batteries, if so which? They all seems to be same batteries. Do not have their history, but this is the battery thats in there now;
NAPA
Battery BCI # BCI #27DCM
Battery Cold Cranking Amps @ 0 Degrees F 650
Battery Cranking Amps @ 32 Degrees F 800
Battery Posts Type Top Post & Side
Battery Reserve Capacity (Minutes) 150
Battery Voltage 12 Volt
Battery Warranty in Months 30
Battery Weight 49 lbs
Contents (1) Battery
Height 9-3/8"
Length 12-1/2"
UNSPSC 25191806
Width 6-3/4"
Views: 33035 • Comments: 70 • Write comments [ Read all ]
View the latest post bulb size for stair courtesy lights
- Posted by: cpoint » June 27th, 2016, 10:57 am
- Forum: Electrical
Can anyone tell me what 2000 carver 356 aft cabin light bulb type is for stair courtesy light (I believe they are all same for the ones that light up stairs inside and there are 2 of same type one by the exterior step that comes into cabin and one up on top in bottom of console), they have a gray cover with parallel bars, about an inch maybe. I am interested in changing all exterior lights to blue led. I already got the 2 puck 12v lights for aft deck ceiling, and 2 bulbs for the front top and stair from top to aft deck. So I would like to change the bulbs if possible for the exterior step that goes from outside to cabin door and the top console center bottom (near fireboy switch). I can't find the bulb type for these in the manual. Thanks
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View the latest post Need help with Tides StrongSeal hose routing
- Posted by: anothernewb » June 27th, 2016, 3:37 am
- Forum: Gas Engines/Transmissions
Can ANYONE with dripless packing and gas motors tell me where the hoses for the raw water to lube the seals hooks up to the engines? I've contacted Tides Marine and they gave me a list of where they recommend the hoses be connected. I was hoping a fellow carver owner could tell me where they hooked them up.
Clint,
Unfortunately, we don't have any information as to where they would have connected it. All we can tell you is that we recommend the following places in this order of preference.
1. Hose Tee: In-Line between the heat exchanger and riser. (as close to the heat exchanger as possible).
2. Hose Tee: In-Line between the oil cooler and heat exchanger.
3. Hose Tee: In-Line between the water pump and the oil cooler.
4. Drain Plug: Hose barb in the heat exchanger.
5. Drain Plug: Hose barb in the oil cooler (only if oil cooler is on the pressure side of the water pump). The bore should be at least .200".
6. Drain Plug: Hose barb in the back of the water pump. Be sure the drain is on the pressure side of the pump.
Thank you for shopping with
Tides Marine
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View the latest post Shore Power Cord Stuck
- Posted by: SailingStevie » June 26th, 2016, 5:38 pm
- Forum: General Repairs & Maintenance
One of my shore power cords is stuck and will not pull out. The plug will turn to unlock and turn to lock but it will not pull free from the inlet to the boat. My boat has two, one for main AC power and the secondary for AC power to air conditioning systems. The lower air conditioner inlet is the one that is stuck. I've researched it some and found that it might be self-welded into the adaptor because of an arc... With this said, if it's welded in how can I free it or remove it and replace. The boat is a recently acquired vessel for us and we are unsure of the history of maintenance on the shore power cords. I'm suspecting the connectors have not been maintained over the years. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I'm trying to avoid calling the marine electrician for something that might be a quick DIY job.
-- SailingStevie
"Scottie in the Sky"
2003 Caver 396 Aft Cabin
Views: 2112 • Comments: 1 • Write comments [ Read all ]
View the latest post AC unit not giving cold air
- Posted by: Makin Waves » June 26th, 2016, 2:46 pm
- Forum: AC/Heat, Plumbing & Sanitation
2006 Carver 46 MY, front salon AC unit, heat works but AC only gives cool air not cold. Any ideas?
thanks
Dave
Views: 5723 • Comments: 14 • Write comments
View the latest post Attachment(s) Point au Baril
- Posted by: feeez » June 26th, 2016, 2:38 pm
- Forum: Boating & Cruising Lifesyle
Some Pics from our cruise to Point au Baril... Georgian Bay.
Cheers All
Fraser
Views: 3485 • Comments: 7 • Write comments
View the latest post Hey All!
- Posted by: nightsky » June 25th, 2016, 10:28 pm
- Forum: Introduce Yourself!
New to this forum and Carver boats. Just put in an offer on one, so hopefully will be a happy Carver owner soon. Looking forward to learning as much as possible on the 390 CPMY and enjoying mostly trouble free cruising and fishing.
Views: 1914 • Comments: 4 • Write comments
View the latest post West Marine 4th Of July Sale
- Posted by: RGrew176 » June 25th, 2016, 5:18 am
- Forum: General Boating Discussion
I stopped by my local West Marine Thursday on my way home from the boat. I had an email from them stating that they had things on sale up to 50% off normal pricing. I definitely like saving money whenever possible. I had 3 items on my list that I would need to spend some more boat bucks on.
Earlier I had purchased a new Standard Horizon Explorer GX1700W VHF radio as the VHF that came with the boat was not working. I did install the new radio and I connected the old antenna to the radio. There is some background hiss that I can eliminate by wiggling the antenna input. Knowing I would be replacing the antenna soon I went with the old one for now.
As I walked through the WM store I looked at a few VHF antennas. I had narrowed it down to either the Shakespeare Mariner 8700 or the 8900. I went home and fired up my computer so I could research both units. After reading the reviews on the 8900 I decided to up the ante and get the top of the line model. All the reviews were very positive.
The regular price was $239.99 a bit stiff but who really wants to go cheap on a major safety item. This antenna was 30% off which dropped the price down to $167.99, definitely more acceptable. I also had $50 worth of West Marine bucks from my purchases of the Garmin GPS unit and the new VHF to spend dropping the price to an even more acceptable $117.99. I bought the 8900 model and intend to install it next Wednesday.
Here is a link to the antenna:
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/shakespea ... r--6966071
Reading the following review pretty much sold me on the antenna.
Local west marine was out of stock for a replacement 5225 XP I was replacing, as well as comparable 8' VHF antennas. Took a chance on this top-of-the-line Mariner 8900, grumbling about the premium price.
Installed antenna on boat with two radios and an existing 5225 XP. Came with a "clamp-on" PL-259 connector, which I was dubious about since I normally solder my own on. Turned out this clamp-on PL-259 connector was awesome.
Tested this with an SWR meter and the VSWR was quite low, but the power output was showing a bit under 30 watts. (Radio maxes out at 25 watts, right?) Swapped with another radio and I got the same exact readings. Compared to my "good XP 5225", I had a bit higher VSWR and power of about 20 watts.
Out in open water between Florida and the Bahamas, I found the reception to be outstanding and communication with other boats is clear. I'm so impressed that I went back later to purchase a second one, especially since it was on sale. I definitely feel like I got great value for what I paid for these 8900's.
My only con, if any, is with the packaging. The tube itself is great, but the ends of the tube are secured with a flimsy, stapled-on plastic cap. Inside the cap is some foam to protect the antenna. Like others I've purchased, this end-cap is often chewed up from the shipping or something. By now you'd think they'd have a much better end cap that securely protects both ends of the antenna.
I am looking forward to calling out for my first radio check.
I also needed something to help me when I do my oil changes. I ran across this unit.
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-mari ... --11047123
The regular price was $94.99 and it was marked 26% off bringing the price down to $69.99. The oil removal system I had when I owned my Bayliner does not work on the Carver as the dipstick tubes are not threaded so I needed to get something to help me when doing that task.
The 3rd item I need is a power cord. A 25' cord came with the boat. There are times when I need to raft off from the docks and a 25' cord is to short. Unfortunately the power cords are not currently marked down. I won't need one until August so I can keep my eyes open for them to go on sale. If they don't I will buy it when I need it.
Here is the shorepower cord I am considering.
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/marinco-- ... --14272439
A question for you all. Should I buy another 25' cord to make the connection or should I buy a 50' foot cord and only use the one cord whenever I am rafted off other boats at the docks. What do you think. Would wrestling a 50' cord be that much more difficult than managing 2 25' cords and connecting them together. I am leaning towards Marinco but should I consider Furrion another brand that WM sells. I am also thinking that if I get the 50 footer I could leave my current power cord at the dock and carry the new one for when I travel to other facilities.
Decisions, decisions.
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View the latest post Camera hook up to aft deck of a carver 356 aft cabin
- Posted by: cpoint » June 23rd, 2016, 2:03 pm
- Forum: Electronics & Navigation
Apologize in advance for opening a similar subject that was in this forum already (from 2013). Not sure I should have piggy-back to it or do this new post. I have carver 356 aft cabin. with 13'.3" beam, my slip is little under 14', talk about a tight slip. But location is great so I could not pass it up. Anyway, 2 months into our boating, went out maybe 4-5 times so far, first time used the mooring in center due to too much wind to make it back to slip. 2nd time went in forward for convenience factor, and rest of times Preferred method backing in, which works out fine as long as I have capable help on board and no wind. With about 3 inches to spare in my slip crew yells a lot, causing embarrassment for the captain (that be me
). Long story short I purchased a backup camera, and my plotter has video in. Now I am trying to wire the camera to back (top of aft cabin), but not sure how difficult it would be to pull the wires from the ceiling of aft deck, through port side down to floor, where there is tracking channel to pull wires into command center for power and display device. I think having camera will help backing in so much better. I have perfect location in back for camera, and would have no problem once I get the wires to console base. I am sure there are already wires coming from ceiling of aft deck as there are 2 pod lights there with switch being at aft deck. Any advice from anyone? if anyone done something like this, maybe post some pic of it? Thanks.
Views: 5695 • Comments: 12 • Write comments [ Read all ]
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