Ok has anyone unscrewed the wet bar from the deck floor so they can re-seal it and the screws? There's a subfloor under the ice maker with 3 screws on the right side holding it down if your facing the cabinet, but this panel appears to go under the left side doored cabinet. I want to re-seal all the cabinet mounting screws that hold the cabinet down to the deck, I can see 3 or 4 in the back of the cabinet since the sub floor is notched out and I assume there are more mounting screws in the front of the cabinet, but don't know if this sub floor panel will come out after just removing the three screws on the right side.
Mike

I'm trying to locate valve springs for our Kohler generator, I believe its the original in our 1988 Carver 3607

The genny runs fine on loads of 15amps or less, but anything higher causes the engine to run hard and shutdown.

Sorry about posting these videos, but it's too much fun making them not to share.

https://youtu.be/rxDj5bSo-Wg

https://youtu.be/qjT8m5nKxZw (no copy rights on this video) should be able to be played in any country

Anybody know if the original head in a 1990 3807 was a Crown Raritan electric?

Still awaiting for the new engine to be replaced in our 1994 Carver 390 CMY, so we got the old lettering off of the transom and placed the new on. Boat yard says they can start the engine transplant on Monday June 20th with a new Michigan Motorz long block. Hoping still to have her for the 4th of July weekend!

I think I may have an issue with the neutral safety switch on one of my engines. I have to constantly jiggle around with the shifter to get it to start and then "of course" sometimes it goes on the first try. The parts guy at our marina says that It may be just an adjustment. I have ordered a new switch anyway.

Can anyone lend any creedance to what this adjustment may be and how?

The transmission is a Velvet V drive.

Thanks
Fraser

Afternoon all,

This morning, my wife and I walked through a 2005 360 SS. This was our first time seeing this model up close. We liked everything about the layout, the interior was very clean, and the a/c was working great. We could see ourselves cooking, watching TV, sleeping, showering, and... yes... I even sat on the head.

The exterior was a bit faded and dull. It needs some detailing but that's to be expected with an 11 year old boat.

Our scuba gear (not the tanks) could easily be stowed behind the bench seat across the back of the bridge, between the back of the seat and the canopy.

The broker was supposed to provide maintenance records from the owner. The only thing the owner was able to come up with was work done to one engine back in 2013. The broker has had the boat about three months but didn't know that much about it. He didn't know exactly when the bottom was last painted, only that it needed it. (He also didn't know it had a backup camera, central vac, or an automatic oil changer.)

Then I crawled down in the engine compartment. The filters, strainers, belts, most hoses, and the water pumps/impellers were all easy enough to get to.

However, the starboard shaft seal has a very steady drip, about a drop every three or four seconds, so there is a puddle of water in the bilge. There was some surface rust on one propellor shaft but not the other. The through hull fitting where the port rudder shaft goes through had some water around it but the starboard rudder shaft was dry. The generator case was open and there was dampness at the base of it. The generator ground strap and a couple of battery terminals had some corrosion. The fluids were all clean and none were where they shouldn't be.

And then there was the bottom. The boat is in the water but the water in the Clearwater, FL marina was reasonably clear. We could see about an inch build up of algae. Enough that it was waiving back and forth with the water movement. An inch? The broker said they have a diver clean the hull once a month. An inch of algae in a month? To me, that seems like a lot. Is that a lot?

So... hauled and bottom painted, new shaft seals, probably new zincs, the general condition of some of the components down below, and the lack of documented maintenance made us back away from this particular boat but we loved the over all feel of it and will continue searching for an early to mid-2000s 360 SS.

Good Morning,

For those of you who have a boat in the 36' length... a Mariner, aft cabin or Sport Sedan... what do you do for a vacuum? A Swiffer pad mop would probably be fine for the small amount of hard surface flooring but what about the carpets? Do you install a central vac system? Seems unlikely those would reach the bridge. Or pick up a small but powerful wet/dry vac from Home Depot, add a wand for ease and comfort, and then store it below decks until needed? Or bring a full size vac from home and leave it laying on the guest bed to discourage overnight visits? I'm interested in hearing your solutions to keeping things tidy.

Thanks.

John

Just thought I would pass on some good info. Not saying you need to upgrade to this but you do need to check your shore power connection at the boat. One huge issue is with time the connections behind your inlet get corroded/worn/loose and can cause major issues such as a fire on board. I highly suggest you remove the 4 screws holding the inlet in place, pull it out, disconnect the wires, cut them off an inch or so and reconnect to fresh clean wire. Depending on the condition of the inlet you may want to change that while you are there. Even if everything looks like new, then a simple tightening of the wire clamp screws is still in order. Believe me you will wonder why they were so loose!

The other issue is the cord end where it plugs into the boat inlet. These tend to wear out with time especially if you do not use the locking ring which allows for more movement as the boat rocks. Inspect the end and if you see any charring, either replace the cord set or the receptacle on the end before it is to late.

Any sign of charring or pins that are somewhat not perfect any more are signs of overheating. This will not go away, it is going to get worse and needs attention NOW!

I converted my previous boat to a new kid on the block called Smartplug. Best thing since sliced bread if you ask me. I have also converted the new Carver to the same as it is new to me but still 9 years old. The video in the Smartcraft link is self explanatory. https://youtu.be/TAJXY1YSIlw

2000 Trojan 454 with Velvet Drives

Oil is topped off
Temp is perfect
Already changed the Temp sensors, waste of money
Changed the Pressure sensors and port motor velvet drive light is still on after 1200 rpm, starboard goes off as expected.

Then I noted that the sync gauge is way off on the port motor, way short on rpm's and appears to get worst are the rpm increase.

How are the velvet drive warning lights tied to the motor rpm and maybe even the sync gauge? Suggestions, please?