http://www.xantrex.com/power-products/power-accessories/linklite-battery-monitor.aspx

I like this Xantrex LinkLITE battery monitor so much, having used in it my previous 2004 Cruisers Yachts 320, that I'm adding one to our recently acquired 2004 Carver Mariner.

It's just a fabulous product, and acts like a fuel guage for the house battery bank. I had it wired solely to the house bank, as they take all the load while at anchor, not the start batteries.

I'm wondering if any other Mariner owners ran across the following oddity? I was surprised to find that there was no DC monitor in the Mariner, on the stock factory electrical panel. That's right, no volt meter. Nothing.

Just the AC shore power meter. But no basic battery monitor? Love the boat, but how did this get out of the factory in 2004 without a battery monitor?

I'm sure glad I found this site. Thanks.

hello!
I have custom 28 Santacruz totaly rebuild and changed.
with twin VM diesel 200hp direct drive!
If someone is interested in my project please let me know, i will share pictures and other infos.

Hello, unfortunately starting to get cold and this is my first boat with diesels. In case we get that nice winter weekend I do not winterize the boats I had in the past. I just made sure heat was available by small ceramic heaters both in the engine area and the salon. On this boat there is no real convenient way to run a power cord up to a outlet. The question I have since it is diesel is there a reason I should not install a 110 outlet in the engine area. I have been on larger boats that have them so I thought I would ask. Thanks

Just wanted to say Hi.

We've owned our '98 355 Carver since 2010 and normally keep her in the Tampa Bay area. However this summer we cruised "Flyin Low" to the Chesapeake and left her there for the winter. We'll return next year to bring her home.

I put new alternators on my Cummings 450's about 2 years ago and it has blown the fuse back at the battery. Don't know when they blew One had a 10 amp fuse and the other a 2 amp...both blown. I can't seem to find in any of my manuals what the amp size of the fuse is really suppose to be....can anyone help?
There are / should be four fuse holder within 7 inches of the house batters. Two ARE 2 amp but they go to the inverter. It's the other two that come from the back of each alternator that I need to know about.
Thanks in advance.

Dave here, my wife Tamie and I just purchased a 1979 Carver Mariner 33'. Our first live aboard boat. Can't wait to get it in the water in the spring. Lots of little projects and one or two larger ones. Really looking forward to it.

Hi my name is Paul. I'm new to Carver and boating in general I moved from CO to live on the water. I bought a 1976 33' Carver Mariner to use primarily as a live aboard and running around the Islands and coastal waters around St Pete, FL. I currently have a lot of projects on my list and I'm sure that won't ever change. Any advise as far as the boat, the marina life, or anything else a newbie should know would be greatly appreciated. I look forward to meeting new people here and tapping the expertise of those in this forum.

When I recently purchased the boat I cleaned the points on both engines and both ran strong. I was told the V-drive on the port side was bad and only the starboard screw was turning. The previous owner told me the v-drive is bad and the port wasn't turning. This made for an interesting passage from Venice, FL to her new home St. Petersburg, FL. The port propeller turned during the passage so I know it's not stuck below. My question is this a typical item that breaks? I've been told these v-drives are pretty rock solid. My question is will this be a fairly costly repair? Do you think it could be the transmission and not the v-drive? Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

I'm a new owner of this boat and new to boating in general. I grew up in CO but gave up the mountains for the waters of FL. My boat has a soft deck in the bow area and also the port stern under the cleat. The wood looks pretty rotted in both areas. I've read a lot about drill and fill epoxy repairs. Will this work well in these areas? Any advise on better methods? Thank you