I’m researching several winter projects some of which require drilling holes through transom and running wires. If I do them I’ll make separate threads for each. Projects in mind are:

- Trim Tab Indication at Helm. Currently have Bennett Hydraulic (OEM I guess) Tabs but there’s no indicators at the helm and I just have to guess their position. I’ve researched and know the parts to get.

- Possibly stern thruster. Again, I’ve found the product and parts list.

- Under water lights. Still researching the parts. Recommendations solicited!

- RV100 Transducer that came with my Chartplotter. I have read and will do more research that a transom mounted transducer is ineffective due to Propwash? I don’t fish but since I have the equipment it would be cool to view the 3d products. Any input from you guys would be appreciated. I’ve also read at low speeds the transom mounted transducer is OK? Other articles I’ve read say put a thru hull RV200 in front of the props for full benefit.

ALL of the above modifications require drilling through the transom to run the wires. I’ve done this before on other boats I’ve owned without issue and feel comfortable doing so. However; with this 1998 405 Aft Cabin it appears to be virtually impossible to maneuver the wires through the transom to the area under the Aft Cabin bed area in order to send them to the appropriate location. It looks like the Aft Fuel tank blocks all viewing and access of the transom?

Is there a trade secret to maneuvering that area? My plan is DIY this winter when I pull the boat for inspecting below waterline.

Thanks in advance!

Anyone have a part number for a temp sensor for a 1976 Ford Windsor 351W, Mercruiser 233? Can't seem to find it in my parts catalog. Thanks.

Question for 355 Aft cabin people with central vacuum system...
Electrical panel shows a breaker for the central vacuum system. Apparently system was removed or never installed.
Wiring is there though...breaker has the wires attached and routed into the harness with other wires.
My question...where would the canister had been mounted/located?
The ends of the wiring should be capped off somewhere near where the canister would had been....
There are no ports/holes that I can see where the vac hoses would have been connected when using...
Thank you!

Hi guys, we have a 1998 445 with Cummins Diesel‘s and the starboard shaft was dripping about once every two seconds even while the engines were not running. Had a mechanic attempt to tighten the packing nut a little bit and he said it would not budge. Does anyone have any experience with what to do in the situation? I assume the boat should be pulled to deal with this? Any assistance would be appreciated. Thanks!

2007 Carver 47 Motor Yacht BMW, I have a bow rail mounted searchlight and wanting to replace it with a LED light. I do know the wire goes through a small section of rail and then drops in my anchor chain box. Has anyone had any experience in feeding wire from a searchlight up to the bridge. Any tips ?

I have a 2003 Carver 366 and I have a fresh water leak in the forward bilge.
Turn shore water off and fresh water pump off leak goes away.
The water is coming from under the black water tank. In the 366 there are two hatches to the front bilge, one in the galley and one in the forward berth. I used a shop vac and paper towel to dry everything up. Once dry I turned the shore water back on and a little water started showing from the front of the black tank but not the rear.
All water lines are pex and I have checked all the ones I can access. I have check the fresh water pump. I even checked the hot water tank and through hulls everything is dry. I do believe on the 366 there are three separate bilges that are not connected, front mid and rear. That is also what it looks like. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

How long do these last? Will the brushes eventually fail or bearings go bad?

In my case a single 1000 gph unit does all 3 AC units so if it were to go we have no more AC. We do let it run 24/7 all season long and the boat is now 16 years old. No clue how the previous owner used the AC though.

I am going to order an extra AC circulation pump and keep it on board just in case the original decides to give up which is usually when one needs it most. Maybe even get a spare potable water pump while I'm at it because those are rather important also. Not like you can get these at the corner store either. I did have one go out on me on a previous boat and ended up putting in an aquarium pump as a temp fix until the new one was delivered. The aquarium pump worked very well by the way.

We have a 1993 Mariner 330 with a single AC unit. The AC works and blows cool/cold air, but it takes forever to cool the boat. The forward cabin gets cooler than the salon, but after several hours on a hot day, the salon goes from around 90 to around 85. There seems to be enough air blowing, and the filter is clean.
Does anyone have any ideas? On a related note, is it OK to leave the air conditioning on 24/7?
Thanks!

I have a 2000 396 and the water tank fill ring chrome trim ring on the sb side got knocked off. Does anyone know where to find a replacement trim ring? It is very small and I could not find one checking online suppliers. Any help is most appreciated.

Hi,

New to the forum. Just bought my first boat, a 350 Mariner. I'm replacing a lot of the interior fixtures - shower sump, cabin lights, radio/tv, cabinet hinges etc. but I'm stuck trying to replace the internal salon speakers either side of the rear door, under the external stairs at either side of the boat. These have a plastic cowling that is flush against the internal fiberglass and I can't see any way of removing it.

Any help is appreciated,

Colin.