I figured out why my engines would only start on the release of the key and not when the key was being turned. The resiter shown here on the rear of the motor is weak. This resister is in line with the power to the coil. So since it's weak it depleats the initial voltage on the coil and reduces the spark on the plugs while the start is spinning. If the resister works correctly it applies 12v to the coil during the entire starting cycle. Once I crossed it over the motor started right up and ran perfect. If I un-cross it, the motor will run with throttle but not idle. I need to find two new ones to make it right.

I search Ebay but didn't find them, Does anyone know where to get them? They say 2 ohm's. It is located on the back of the engine beside the breaker right where the top of the transmission connects to engine.

Please tell me you know what this is cause I need two of them. If not I will buy a regular 2 ohm resister and put it in line and see if that works.

Hey All!

I'm about to purchase a 1995 Carver 380 Santego. Survey will be within the next week or two. I believe it has the original 454 Crusader engines. Manifolds and Risers about 6 years ago. Does anyone have any ideas how much longer I can get before I have to do a manifold/riser job? How about the life of the Crusaders? They're coming up on 20 years... I think that's about their life? Should I be expecting to repower soon? Last question... they are carbureted - my last 3 boats were all fuel injected - is this a concern?

Very excited to move up in size from a Sea Ray 270. Two guys at my last marina had these boats - theirs were 2002 and 2001 (both fuel injected 8.1 crusaders).

Thank you all!

Hi, I'm a lifetime sailor...now living on this floating condo of a boat in comparison to the cramped lifestyle of a sailboat. Getting used to the shock of fueling this beast, other then that, she's a fine vessel for cruises to Catalina Island off the southern Cal coast...I'm open to connecting with anyone that has questions and would like to get together with other owners in Marina Del Rey, too if possible to compare ideas...looking forward to actively participating and contributing to the forum.
John Fassero, SONS OF THE SEA, Marina del Rey,
Lieutenant Commander, USCG (retired)

Looking at our 3207 and walking down the side of it seems that it's missing a rail that the factory should have added, in my optinion.
I was thinking about adding a single rail here to have a little something to lean on when going down the gunnels.
What are your thoughts?

I have a Carver/NorCold Refridgerator Freezer. The gasket is Hard as a rock and has been painted even before I painted it again. I want to replace it. Where do I find a new or nice used set?
I just repainted the inside white instead of NASTY yellow. You can see how nasty it was in the last two pics.

All I can say is WOW! i have never seen such a nasty set of Carbs.
So from what I can tell the 3207 I bought Saturday was up for sale since at least 2/2013. The motors have a little over 300 hours on them since they were replaced with re manufactured Mercury 5.7L's. The motors look pretty new and are all nice and painted although they are a little dusty. I plan to wash the bildge down shortly anyways.

Anyways, you can see that the boat was put up for sale and then not touched since (assuming there was a divorce involved). I assume there was some moisture in the tanks and in the lines because the carbs have rust in them especially the Port side.
When i took off the last chance filters, Sand fell out. I assume it's Rust but it looks like dirt. I'm going to replace all the water/fuel separator filters and then cross my fingers that everything works properly.
If it continues to run funny after I put the rebuilt carbs on then, I will have to figure out what I need to do to get the water out. I hope it didn't do any damage to the tanks or lines. I am hoping the water/fuel separator filters will catch it all.

I had a similar issue with my other boat and the filters caught it all and it runs clean now.

Here are the pics of what I found as I rebuilt the two carbs
Here is the fuel line coming into the Port Carburator

Dirt/Rust that fell out of the Last Chance Filter

Once I got it apart I found a lot of evidence of water in the bowl. I ended up bead blasting it to get the rust out


Here is the Starboard Carb. It's not as bad. This motor ran but would not stay idling for more than 30 seconds without pumping the throttle. I found a lot of Caramelled gas in it that looks like blood.


Here is the last chance filter on the starboard side. This Carb was running if you can believe it. CRAZY full of rust



Here is the cleaned and rebuilt Port side Carb. I dated it for my own reference




Here is the Starboard side rebuilt

And both together ready for install.
I am expecting they should start right up and then need to be tuned but should be all good.

I am still worried about the fuel pump on the Port side cause I never got fuel up to that Carb, but I don't know if that was from the clogged line at the carb or a clogged line somewhere else or just a destroyed fuel pump from the rust.
Only troubleshooting will tell.

We have a 1990 34 Santego, with 2-454 big blocks. We've been working on our boat for two years and have done a complete refurb on everything. I took it out a couple months ago and throttled both engines up pretty aggressively and the boat lifted up out of the water and ran great at about 3000 RPMs. But as soon as I started lifting the trim tabs I noticed the boat coming down. I didn't know (and don't have enough experience) to know if it's normal to push the motors much past that for cruising. I'm looking for some feedback as to what to expect performance wise from the boat at a variety of RPMs.

My port motor is a brand new 5th generation big block from Michigan from the oil pan to the carburetor and it's awesome! My stbd motor is a rebuilt 3rd generation with a solid lift ( I believe). I usually run about 100gal of fuel and the overall length is 41feet.

Any help would be appreciated.

Joe

Has anyone used a Stainless Steel back splash in their kitchen area behind the cooktop? It would be a nice look and protect the wall from splatters.

I have, like most everyone else that has a 3207, carpeting on my rear deck. I lifted it up and found that the fiberglass looks like a shattered egg shell. It's not pretty. I assume its from water seeping through the carpeting and sitting on top of the fiberglass causing it to crack. I am wondering if there is some type of rubber cement or silicone that I could apply to the backing of the carpet to prevent the water from penetrating it. The carpet originally had a backing that is falling off but the carpet is still in good condition on top so I would rather just re-coat it some how to help prevent water sitting on the fiberglass, especially after I have the fiberglass fixed.

There is a ton of white grass cloth inlays in all the cabinets in our older Carvers. I was wondering if anyone has modified their cabinets to look more up to date?