Hi all,

Is there anyone in the Jacksonville, FL area that has any 15mm PEX tubing?

Our water heater bit the dust ast week - and I already got a new one along with all the fittings I need. I couldn't find a source for 15mm fittings locally so I did a big order from Defender which came in today.

Unfortunately I only got 2 ft of 15mm tubing as I thought it would be enough. However, now that I'm knee-deep in the project I really want to move some things around which requires a little more tubing than I have. I'm looking for maybe 5-10 ft at the most.

Is anyone local to the Jacksonville, FL area that has any they're willing to sell me? I can order more online but then I won't get it until next week sometime and I'd really like to finish this project up this weekend.

Thanks to anyone who might be able to help! We have access to a car so we can drive to meet you.

Kyle

My port engine has been dying once it's hot. Starts fine and runs at power no problem. but when I come back to idle it will die. After it gets hot the fuel pressure drops from 55 to 25 PSI .

So I did the most obvious, replaced the high and low pressure fuel pump, replaced all fuel filters, replaced fuel pressure regulator and relays. Still happening, didn't fix it.

Mechanic was kinda stumped and said his next move would be to insulate the entire port fuel line as he speculated that perhaps it was overheating and boiling the fuel causing vapor lock.

I've already spent $2K on this so I really don't want to keep guessing. Any ideas? It's a Crusader 6.0, 2007 with about 550 hours.

Hello all, in my checking of actual engine hours using my Rinda software vs the Helm Hour analog gauges that are not 100% accurate. I noticed that both engines come up as "Master" and NOT as ("Master"/"Slave") on the bottom left of the screen when communicating with the engine. Is this an issue or a non-issue? Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.

Information of Vessel:
1999 Carver 406
Engine Starboard Mercruiser 7.4L MPI MIE V-8 gasoline naturally aspirated engine - 330hp SN- 0L303931
Engine Port Mercruiser 7.4L MPI MIE V-8 gasoline naturally aspirated engine - 330hp SN- 0L303934

MEFI 3 ECM on each Engine

I found this text in a publication named
"MerCruiser EFI Engine History and Major Changes"
"The engine control module (ECM) on all 1996 and newer model year EFI engines has the
“Power Reduction Mode” disabled. Because of this change, it is important that 1995 (and
older) models not be intermixed with 1996 (and newer) models on multiple engine boats. It
is important that all of the engines in a boat have either the power reduction mode enabled
or disabled, but not a combination of both.
The 3-pin Master/Slave connector and the 2-pin Safety Lanyard Stop Circuit connector have
been removed on some 1996 and newer MEFI 1 models and all MEFI 2 and MEFI 3 models.
On these newer models, if the Master/Slave functions are desired, it is necessary to build a
custom data link harness and connect it between the DLC connectors on the engines. The
serial data terminal (Pin G, orange [or orange/black] lead) on the data link connector
(DLC) of both engines must be connected together and the master/slave terminal (Pin
H, yellow lead) on the Slave engine’s DLC must be grounded."

I read this as Master / Master is OK

Hello all,

I just joined this morning, after purchasing a 1985 Riviera via auction earlier today.
I had another post with photos submitted, but it has disappeared for unknown reasons.

So, as I say, I just bought this boat today. I haven't seen it, it's at the auction yard about 90 miles from me, in the Toronto area. I'm new to big boating so I would like some pointers. The boat has been winterized, would there be other things I should be doing over the winter and/or prior to launching it in the spring? I believe ensuring the bilge pump functions is a primary concern as well as the exhaust fans. Prior to starting engines in the spring is there a process to follow? Can I start engines up out of the water by hooking up an intake hose? I'd like to ensure all is good before dropping it in to the water not knowing if it will even turn over (auction said it was inspected and in good operating condition...but why would they say otherwise and cancel a sale).

There are no manuals with the unit, so I am looking for those as well. Service, user/operator manuals, brochures etc if anyone has a link or otherwise where I may be able to find such, would be appreciated.

Hour meter shows 114, although without yet seeing the full console I do not know what that meter regulates. Boat is on its own trailer, however it appears it is only secured with the bow winch on trailer. There is/are no tie downs to the rear of the trailer.

If fellow members could chime in with any assistance on what I should be doing as a new boater that would help. I'd really like to obtain manuals to become familiarized with it. Have any members come across common issues with this model?

Thanks again for any help!

Does anyone have or could suggest a place where I might be able to obtain detailed diagrams of a 1998 to 2004 Carver 450 Voyager? I have a 2001 Voyager and I would like to make a model of the boat, but I have been unable to find a good, detailed diagram.

Thank you

We recently purchased a 1996 Carver 325. One of the many projects I’d like to work on while the boat is in storage this winter is upgrading the battery system. I’ve done some reading on this forum to see what others have for battery setups and have an idea of what I think I’d like to do, but I’m looking for some guidance.

Here is some background on our situation:
- Our boat does not have a generator.
- It is currently equipped with two dual purpose batteries located behind an access panel in the aft cabin, and the stock 1/2/both/off switch that came from the factory. Haven’t checked manufacture date, but the batteries are at least a couple years old. One appears to be group 31, 800 CCA and the other is smaller, 600 CCA. A bit odd that they’re different, but the previous owner did more than few things that have left me scratching my head. I’ll feel better about it if we get new batteries and start over fresh.
- 90% or more of our trips will be day trips. When we’re on the hook it will almost always be 12 hours or less. I’d like to have a battery bank with enough juice to run the refrigerator (previous owner put a cheap residential mini fridge in, which I will be replacing with a new Vitrifrigo 12v dc / 120v ac fridge shortly), stereo, and a few 12v accessories. I may add a small dedicated pure sine wave inverter in the salon for an LED tv and other small electronics that shouldn’t consume a lot of power.
- We’re on the western side of Lake Michigan which has pretty limited calm spots for overnight anchorage. On any overnight trips, we will likely be docked at a marina and on shore power, so I’m not worried about needing a generator or large amounts of battery capacity.
- I’d prefer to keep this to a relatively simple project. I’ve entertained a LiFePo4 bank for the house but I don’t think we need it at this point. Maybe I take the plunge when I replace the next round of batteries but not now.

I’m currently thinking of doing the following:
- Leave the charging system and stock battery switch as is.
- Instead of having two dual purpose batteries, one on each position, convert one switch position to a dedicated start bank of two 1000 CCA lead acid starting batteries in parallel (located where the two current batteries are) and convert the other position to a house bank of four 6v lead acid deep cycle golf cart batteries (Trojan T105 or similar) in series/parallel to make a 12v house bank with something like 900 total ah / 450 usable ah. Location tbd.
- I realize this setup requires remembering to change the switch position when you’re on the hook, and may not be ideal, but it seems like it will be relatively easy to reconfigure and should meet our needs just fine.
- We have an aft deck hard top and I’m considering adding solar at some point in the future, but I’d like to see how this goes first. We may not need it.
- I’d also like to add something like the Victron Smart Shunt for monitoring the house bank.

A few questions:
- What are your thoughts on this setup based on our needs? I’m reasonably handy but very inexperienced when it comes to this stuff so it’s very possible I’m overlooking something obvious. Anything I’m missing?
- Any suggestions for location of the house bank? We have a lot of room in the engine compartment because of the lack of a generator. I know that may not be ideal to put them in there because of the heat, but is it safe/acceptable? Based on the owners manual, it appears the stock setup was to have the generator battery in the engine compartment for the boats that came equipped with that option. The battery switch is under the stairs from the aft deck to the salon, and I’d like to keep the cable run as short as possible. I don’t think there is room in the aft cabin to put the house bank unless I put it under the vanity between the beds, which isn’t a terrible option but would eliminate some nice storage space. If engine compartment is a bad idea, I suppose I can sacrifice that storage space and put it there.
- Do I need to worry about off-gassing wherever I put the house bank? As long as it’s vented it should be ok, right?

Any and all feedback is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Hello,
I have a 2003 Carver 570. I believe the engines are Volvo D12.
I am trying to find out what the model of the turbos are?

Problem is, I had the turbos sent to a rebuild shop and am getting quotes of $4,000 each and $6,000 for two sleeves!
Sounds a little high

Thanks

I NEED A LH ZF PROP D.29. P.32.2 LH for 560 Carver Voyager. Larry Hedden LHHedden@gmal.com

The previous owner of my Carver 3207 had installed zincs on each of the swim platform struts. To me, it would make more sense to incorporate the struts into the bonding system via the mounting fasteners inside the stern. Is this a suitable
alternative? Am I missing something?

Thanks.

In my Carver 325 there are courtesy lights at each set of steps, salon to galley, salon to aft cabin, salon to back deck, and the same light/fixture (2) on the back of the cabin to light the aft deck. Does anyone know the vendor that made those fixtures? I don't need the bulb, I need the fixture.
Thanks in advance.