Anyone know what type/model number for the original vacuflush toilet in a 2006 466 MY? I need new seals. Thanks

Question for you all;

Has anyone ever seen this process used for cleaning your holding tanks? I'm considering doing it but do not want to damage anything. Our boat has 2 simple rules:

#1... Here
#2... On the shore.

That being said my level sensors are getting a little finicky and thought i'd try this before replacing them completely.

Holding Tank Descale Checklist – 72-Gallon System

This checklist details a safe descaling procedure for large marine holding tanks (approximately 72
gallons) using a diluted CLR solution. The goal is to loosen calcium and urine scale without damaging
sensors, seals, or plumbing.

Recommended Fill Level and Mix Ratio
For a 72-gallon tank, fill the tank only one-third to one-half full (≈25–30 gallons) with a diluted CLR
solution. This allows the mixture to contact most internal surfaces without risking overpressure or
prolonged sensor exposure.
Standard Mix: Combine 3 quarts of CLR with 30 gallons of water (approximately a 1:40 ratio).
This mixture effectively removes scale while remaining safe for plastic tanks, hoses, and seals.

Step 1 — Pump Out Completely
Empty the holding tank fully and, if available, rinse once with fresh water.
Step 2 — Add the Diluted CLR Mix
Add the CLR-water mixture via the deck pump-out port or toilet. Avoid filling the tank beyond 50%
capacity.
Step 3 — Soak and Agitate
Let the mixture sit for 30–60 minutes. If possible, operate the boat gently so the solution sloshes inside,
helping it reach tank walls and sensors.
Step 4 — Pump Out and Rinse
Pump out completely, then refill halfway with fresh water and pump out again to flush residual CLR.
Step 5 — Neutralize (Optional)
Pour a solution of 1 cup baking soda mixed in 2 gallons of water into the tank. Let sit 10 minutes, then
pump out again.
Step 6 — Final Rinse and Inspection
Flush once more with clean water. Check that tank level sensors now read accurately and that no odor
or scale remains.

Safety and Maintenance Notes
• Do not fill the entire 72-gallon tank with CLR solution — half full is sufficient.
• Do not allow the CLR mixture to sit overnight.
• Never mix CLR with bleach, enzymes, or any ammonia-based cleaners.
• Avoid soaking rubber seals, duckbill valves, or metal fittings directly in CLR.
• For stubborn buildup, consider marine-safe alternatives such as Rydlyme Marine or Dometic Tank
Cleaner.
Perform this procedure annually or whenever level sensors begin reading inaccurately. Following each
descale, use Dometic or Star Brite holding tank treatments monthly to prevent new deposits.

So the 25 year old fridge has died. In order to replace it I'm going to have to remove the main entry door (Hatch). I appears to be pretty straight forward. does anyone have any experience with this? Anything I should be aware of or mistakes to avoid?
Thanks

Anyone needs this,it Includes thread, hot knife, and other accessories

$500 shipped

dianesmallings@outlook.com

I recently purchased a 2002 Carver 570 Voyager with Volvo Penta Diesels TAMD74EDC 480 HP each

During the initial Sea Trial, there was Black Soot covering the back of boat, swim step and cockpit area.
We assumed it was due to the engine surveyor pushing the engines to 2600 rpm's.

Recently, we made a 4 hour trip to channel islands, cruising at 1800 rpm's and found the Black Soot was again covering the back of boat.

Any suggestions what would be the cause?

John Bath

Hi there

I am on the hunt for 2 2 1/2” shaft struts and stuffing boxes for a 2004 570 pilothouse which is running D12 Volvos with 2 1/2” shafts. Any ideas where I could track some down?

Me and a friend just bought a 2000 Carver 530 on an auction website.

The previous owner ran the engines while in the middle of replacing the water pumps for the engines, which damaged some exhaust components and pretty much all of the wiring in the engine room.

We are in deperate need of two "Elb:exhst rubr 6" 90deg" PN: 5162502.. wondering if there is an OEM part number for that or Carver exclusive.

..also need one "Pipe:frp 6x31"" PN: A0018184 and possibly a new port side muffler (if this one can't be repaired)

Yesterday, the day after the paperwork went through for the sale, we were served with a notice of violation from the harbor department marked "final warning" giving us until Monday to get the engines running.

Fines start at $100 the first day(Tuesday), then go $200, $600, $1000, $2000, and cap out at $3000/day the sixth day(Sunday Nov 2nd), so we're in a pretty big hurry to get things moving.

Vessel is located in Newport Beach. I'm currently in Seattle until Tuesday then driving down.

Vessel was also looted of anchor, chain, fenders, dinghy, batteries, and they drained the diesel tank.

We are in disagreement on which size chain to buy, I think it's 3/8" for this windless.. he thinks it's 5/16"

Ok. Let’s figure this one out…bought my 04 366 end of last year. Starboard Fuel gauge worked but read lower that port even after fill up. This year wasn’t reading at all. Dug into the engine bay and found the ground lead not attached to anything…here’s the puzzler…the small screw at the back where I assume it’s supposed to connect, has no terminal/connector attached to it. Absolutely zero place for the female spade ground wire to connect. How the sh## did it ever work at all? I put a ring terminal on the ground and secured with that small screw and it’s back to working but still reading lower than port. In fact that whole multi gauge (oil press, temp, volts, fuel) reads low and I’ve checked the ground on the back of gauge so I’m open to suggestions on that one too.

New owner here... boat was already out of the water by the time we completed the purchase. Seller told me the AC water pump was bad and needed replaced. I want to pull the pump out to confirm it is defective. So couple of questions. What is the best way to test the pump now that we're in winter storage?

Also, how do i confirm that this pump is the original pump that came on the boat? Reson for the qustion is a buddy of mine has a 34' Silverton with a single AC unit and the pump he just replaced on his was 500gph. The one in my boat currently is only 300gph and, if i'm not mistaken, is supplying water to two AC units.

I'll try to attach a picture of my existing pump.





Is that enough volume for two AC units?


Boat is approx 2 hours from home, in storage, but they are winterizing tomorrow so i'm going up this weekend to grab the batteries and take some additional pics and measurements. White there I was going to pull the pump and check the strainer while i'm at it.

Fellow boaters

Looking for some guidance

I have 45ft aft cabin with a hardtop on aft deck, year 2000. A section of aft deck floor has a soft spot approximately 3x3ft square. The spot was soft when I purchased boat 4 years ago and has gotten worse since then. I believe the reason for damage was an ice machine which I have since removed. Fairly certain I dont have water entry anywhere now.

My plan is to drill a series of small holes, 1/4 inch approximately and apply a heater and fan in area for the next few weeks before haul out for winter storage. Hoping the air circulation will dry out some of the moisture. Planning to leave holes exposed until Ontario spring and then fill with resin.

I thought of working from the aft bedroom ceiling up but have heard it's difficult to replace the ceiling and have it look nice once you mess with it. It's a vinyl material that looks quite nice.

Has anyone done this?

I know I will have to patch holes, planning to do this with compound and then apply a non-skid paint.

Appreciate any guidance.

Thank-you