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Does anyone know where you can get replacement sliding door tracks for the galley sliding door cupboards in the 1995 390 MY cockpit. The ones in the boar have chips missing out of them and need to be replaced. I have tried sourcing them but am not having the best of luck. As well the tracks for the sliding doors above the table in the galley area.4
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We have a 1995 Carver 390MY that is new to us and we would like to remove the swim platform from this boat in the fall and rebuild and/or have it modified over the winter or just add new. Is it thru bolted does anyone know or can we remove just the platform from outside. Can anyone give us advice regarding this?
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Hello to all!!!!! I had a problem which was answered to the cause of one of my ac units frosting up. The logical solution was that it was low on Freon, ( thanks Hans). Has anyone done this to their units? I found the the service port which was labeled "suction". Makes sense. If you have done this, what did you use as a product? I'm almost sure it's R12. Thanks in advance.
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2009 Sojourn with Nova Kool RFU8000 Refrigerator.
Freezer holds at about 20 degrees. This is not cold enough to keep ice-cream frozen.
Fridge holds at about 35 degrees on the top shelf right next to the cooling plate.
Lower shelf is at 40 degrees or more.
These temps are after overnight of not opening the unit.
During the day while using the fridge will get up to 40-45 degrees on the top shelf.
Ice takes a good 12 hours to freeze if not longer.
Cabin temps are below 70 when running the A/C and about 80 to 85 max before we start cooling it back off.
Good ventilation around the unit.
I have checked the coils and they are good and clean.
Does not seem to matter if on AC or DC power.
Thermostat set to max. Has new thermostat as I thought maybe that was the problem.
I am wanting to replace with a new unit that will work more like a home fridge (close to 0 in freezer and hold 35 everywhere in the fridge). Thinking about the Vitrifrigo as they seem to have the best reviews.
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So I thought I would share a learning that might help someone later.
My boat 1995 355 aft.
2 30 amp power cords.
Shore 2 runs two ac units and the ac water pump.
Shore 1 runs everything else.
We were in a transient slip hooked to a 50 amp pole and I was using a splitter to go 1-50 to 2-30s.
We were using pretty much everything one morning. Both ac units, stove making eggs, waffle maker, coffee maker, hot water heater,… everything.
Shore one tripped and we lost all of our breakfast making ability. We shut down all the breakers and engaged shore 1 again. Any breaker we would turn on would trip shore 1.
Unplugged the boat and fired up the generator and everything functioned as normal. Made breakfast, then went back to troubleshooting.
After looking closely I noticed that shore 1 had 150 volts going to the panel and shore 2 had 90! That 90 was running the ac units btw.
We metered the pole and it was 120 going into the boat. Hmmm.
So I phoned a friend. They said to look under the shore power connection in the boat and I would see another little cap to lift that looked like another power connection, but what is in it is two breakers! One for hot, and one for neutral. So the neutral was tripped. Pushed the breaker, all was well with the electrical genies again.
I don’t know why they put breakers on the neutral, and it didn’t seem safe the way it made the voltage so out of whack. I do wonder if some recent work we had done to make us not trip breakers on new style poles impacts how these breakers work when they trip now. My boat had shared neutrals between shore 1 and 2. The marina electrician separated them when the marina converted to new gfci power poles.
Anyhow, thought I would share if anyone has a similar issue in the future. I had recently taken photos of those breakers wondering why and what they did. I learned what they do this week.
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This is a head scratcher for me, 1985 3607 aft cabin , with a 30 amp Newmar charger. When connected to shore power the charger functions nornally putting out roughly 10 amps DC into the batteries. Gradually reducing to zero as the bank charge goes up over 13 volts. When I disconnect from shore power and start the generator - There is 12 volts at the charger output ( measured with multimeter ) but zero amps going into the batteries. Stop generator and plug back into shore power - charging starts again. I ran the generator for 45 minutes and actually saw the availble volts go down from 12.2 to 12.1 in that timeframe. My first response is to replace the charger with something from this century but I would really like to understand the behaviour. Any thoughts from the forum ?????
Thanks in advance
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I had an odd thing happen yesterday and I could use some help troubleshooting it.
We took a 5 hour run north on the Mississippi last Monday. Speed was a constant 8mph roughly 1800 rpm. Ran the generator the entire trip. Arrived at the marina after about 5 hours with no issues or drama.
Yesterday we did the same run back down to our home marina after spending the week as transients. We topped off the port gas tank with 7 gallons of gas to balance the tanks since the generator runs off the port tank.
We pretty much idled through a no wake for the first 20 minutes, then popped up to 2100 rpm and took off down the river. Got about ten minutes into the run and the port motor died. Did some checks on it and things looked ok, not hot, oil pressure good, voltage good.
Fired it back up, sounded perfect. Throttled up to 1900 rpm and made it another half hour and it did the same thing.
The generator never shut off during all of this. Someone then suggested shutting that down in case it was drawing a lot of fuel from that tank.
Long story short, we would run about 45 minutes and then lose the port motor. Did that the entire ride back. I could start it almost instantly after it died. No cooling off required. I also took an ir gun into the engine compartment to see if anything was hot. Temps on the two fuel pumps were 97 and 101. Not hot. Risers were 114.
1995 355 Aft
Twin 454 xli Crusaders. Throttle body injected.
My first thought was vapor lock. The motor would die similar to when you pull the fuel line on a lawn mower to winterize it. It would slowly ramp down, not shut off instantly.
I ran the rest of the trip with the port gas cap off, which didn’t help.
I’m thinking maybe anti-siphon valve? Does that sound right?
Fwiw both of my motors have had their main fuel pumps replaced in the last two years. I have not replaced the little helper pump on either motor.
Fuel filters and water separators were also replaced this spring.
If it is the anti siphon valve, where is that on top of the tank? Is it easy to get to? Is it going to be stuck on there and a pita to remove? I can’t get down there until next Sunday so I want to be prepared for what i need to do for this project.
Is there anything else I can look for that would cause similar symptoms? I do plan to look at the fuel lines to see if any are soft and need replacing.
I have yet to use my aux tank. The PO claimed it was fine. I could fill that and run off that tank to see if it solves the problem. A little nervous to use it since I haven’t yet. Don’t want to find 25 gallons of gas in my swim platform!
Thanks for any help an advice
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I was checking out the Fireboy fire suppression system on my 2003 356 and everything looks good, but I discovered that there is a cable attached to manually activate the system. The problem is that I cannot for the life of me find the control knob for that cable. I have looked everywhere. The cable routes from the extinguisher back to the aft port side of the engine compartment and then goes up somewhere. Anybody have any idea where the knob is located? It seems like it would be in a readily accessible location, but I’ve come up empty. Any ideas?
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Kohler model 7.5, R27. Ran fine. Just shut down like it was turned off. Found blown cranking relay fuse. Replace fuse (3 times). Nothing. Now does not blow fuse, but nothing at either test position, or remote. Battery good. New solenoid.
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