I have one of these in the box, never opened. Dug it out of the bowels of Midnight Sun. I changed the entire system so need for this any more. Anyone need one of these by any chance? Can have it for $125 shipped to Canada. https://www.marineoutfitters.ca/index.c ... =313000355

I recently purchased a 2002 Carver 570 Voyager. It has a Kohler 15.5 EOZ generator. When the boat was surveyed the surveyor noted the voltage needle to have some irregularity when it starts up, with voltage fluctuating between 220 and 280 V. The engine sounds quite regular during this time, and once the generator realizes its load it settles out at a constant voltage (takes less than a minute). The surveyor recommended having a generator specialist evaluate, which we did and they recommended some work including replacing belts and diodes on voltage regulator. $4000 later it still does same thing, and they now think it is insulation on the windings, which would be very expensive to deal with. The seller of the boat then sent out his own mechanic to evaluate (not sure of his true qualifications). His mechanic evaluated and replaced impeller and stated generator is working fine. He said voltage fluctuation is normal when generator is seeking out its load. i had another Kohler certified generator service evaluate after that to verify, but they said this degree of voltage fluctuation is beyond what would normally be expected. The sellers mechanic also mentioned that trusting the voltage needle that is on the panel may not be possible as it is a low quality indicator. Looking for advice/opinions on where to go from here. Money was escrowed upon closing to deal with things like this, but seller believes generator needs no more work since his mechanic stated it is fine. I have video showing the voltage needle during this period that I am happy to share with anybody that wants to see if. My dilemma is that I have had two separate Kohler certified service technicians say there is a problem, and one mechanic send by seller (who did seem quite knowledgable, but of unknown qualification) who says it is fine. I very badly want it to be fine so we can move on, but I believe it may not be. Relationship between me and seller/broker has unfortunately become a bit contentious. Any advice here would be greatly appreciated.

Hello All. First time posting here. We just purchased this boat about 5 weeks ago. The head bowls both were turning grey with water standing in them. I presumed the water was coming from the seacock. We were connected to shore water. I put water in the fresh water tanks with some water treatment. It seemed to clear up the bowls, but then the fresh water pump wouldn't stop running, so I turned the breaker off and went back to shore water.

Couple of questions. If I close the seacock, will it force the head water to come from the shore water?

I can hear the fresh water pump, but cannot see it. Sounds like it is forward of the forward fresh water tank. It runs kind of loud. Does anyone know how to access that pump?

Thank you in advance to anyone that may have some guidance.

I installed these in both heads 10 years ago. This season our master head started a slow leak causing the water to empty out of the bowl and consequently activating the suction pump. Nothing serious however the pump would kick in every 3 hrs or so.

Knew exactly what the problem was so I dug out the spare and put a new one in, about a 15 minute job at best.

Just saying you do not need to pay $70 for a Dometic brand when you can get 2 for 1/3 the price. Lasted 10 years so the quality is definitely there.

The teflon style spacer is a big improvement on the rubber spacer Dometic uses

Just check to see if they list your vacuflush unit for fitment.

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0C6XVC17W?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

Hi Gang,

Its high time for us to clean and vacuum the compressor unit on our Norcold refrigerator.

After removing the screws around the black flange, the refer wants to pull straight....and I mean straight out!

The maple beauty cap prevents us from pulling beyond that cap.

Questions are: Can that maple cap in the photo be pried off without damaging the panel? Does the smaller cap on the inside of the Vberth need to be pried off first? Perhaps its covering some screws?

Any help or advice would be helpful and very appreciated. Surely our group has encountered this before!

Many Thanks, Greg

We have a 1997 405 that we have had for three years.
We only use the shore water hook up and the on board water tank is basically empty.
We have rv/marine filter on the hose before it enters the boat. And is changed twice a season.
This year, we have noticed the water is milky and has a distinct odor when first using the faucets.
The water will clear up after a short while and the odor will dissipate, but will not entirely go away.
The odor is very foul smelling.
Is there a filter on the boat from where the shore water enters to before the faucets?
The water appears to be clean and odor free directly from the hose before hooking up to the boat.
Thank you for your time and consideration.

I have a 96 Carver Santego 380 that needs an exhaust/water T replaced. The problem is there are 2 surge flappers embedded in the T. So far I cannot find a replacement. I contacted Centek and they said it is no longer manufactured. The closest part is a 4x4x5 T without the anti surge protection inside. Any advice is appreciated I’ve attached pictures below.

I plan on replacing my BP1200 thruster and would like to size the replacement prior to haul out. Does anyone know the tunnel diameter for the 450 Voyager? I was considering just replacing the gear box, but when adding up all the costs it looks like replacing it with a new sidepower isn't that much more so I think I'll go that route.

On my last trip, I noticed a 10 degree increase on the starboard engine gauge. This engine always heated up faster and ran (according to the gauge) 5-10 degrees warmer than the port. However, the gauge is showing 175, while the neck of the coolant filler, near the sending unit is reading 155, which is the same as the port engine. I replaced the gauge and sending unit - no difference. What else shall I look for?

Ok, I have a 2001, model 356, with 2, 30 amp connections. Pretty sure one of the main 30 amp breakers on my electrical panel is going bad and needs replacing. It is listed in my parts manual as #8900333, 30 amp, 3 pole main breaker. I’m sure this breaker was used in many hundreds, if not thousands of Carvers built in that time period.
Doing an internet search of marine breakers, I can’t find this breaker, including a search of West Marine. Any suggestions of where I can look? FYI, I did open up the panel to eyeball this breaker, so I do know what it looks like…just can’t seem to find a replacement.
Thanks.