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View the latest post Diesel Winterization

Sorry for the ugly word winterization but it is on the doorstep whether we like it or not. Diesel is relatively new to me since all my previous boats were gas. Question is, should one add some type of treatment for the layup period such as stabilizer for gas? I do make sure I have run through both main and aux tanks during the summer so I know the diesel is relatively fresh for the layup period. I do tend to fill up rather full to eliminate as much condensation as possible.

Found this which kinda says additives sometimes work depending on the diesel fuel manufacturer (like we know where it comes from or the formulation :banghead: ) which tells me either it is doing a good thing or pouring money into the tank when choosing to add something.

https://www.fueltechnologiesinternation ... -fuel.html

Also I do see "Stabil" does sell a diesel version.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036CJ15O/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

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View the latest post Fuel Sender/FLoat Leaking

I have been getting fuel smells in my boat, and replacing fuel fill hoses and vent hoses. In the process I found my fuel sender/floats are leaking on port and starboard sides. Cannot seem to find replacements. There are numbers on top flange that are 175 2614 and are 17 1/2" long. The gauges are VDO dual station. Anyone know where to get replacements? :banghead:
Boat is 1 93 350 Aft Cabin

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View the latest post Attachment(s) Volvo Penta relay box

Just wondering, has anyone else seen this problem. 8.1 VP 2004. No double beep when turning the ignition on. All guages work, when the beep is not there, the engine turns but no start. My search shows possible relay box which is mounted on the engine. Sometimes I get the beep, sometimes no. Last time it was at the gas dock!!! Not all the time but very annoying if you want to leave the hook to go back to the dock. Any input would be great, Thanks guys!!!

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View the latest post Raritan Crown Head

I know there is a similar post started requesting thoughts on toilet additives. Sorry but it has only confused me more. I have a 1993 350 Aft Cabin with 2 Raritan Crown Heads, and separate holding tanks. Both Raritans have reservoirs that I'm told are for odor control and Raritan only recommended Conn22. I was told in that post this has been replaced by C.P. (Cleans Potties). Is this both toilet bowl and septic treatment or just bowl/odor cleaner? If so nothing I see in my owners manual states what to use for holding tank. Right now not using reservoirs as could not find the CONN22 and just using Aqua Chem in holding tanks.
I was told to use K.O. (Kills Odors) in conjunction with CP. Both products say how to dilute but not how to use in conjunction, and they are unclear as to what each product is used for. The CP will automatically dispense with each flush, but as I said is just cleaning?
I saw on the original post they were simply inquiring about the use of Noflex Digestor, and some how, thoughts and ideas went to vent filters and other products, but what concerns me is not talking apples to oranges accounting for types of heads and what is recommended for Raritans.
I want to make sure I'm using right products to break down waste, sludge, and etc. without doing harm to my toilets.
Please steer me in the right direction, as I have not had these type of heads before. :help:

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View the latest post DIY Holding Tank Vent Filter

This topic came up on the forums so I figured might as well dig this up from 10 years ago which I design built and posted on another forum. Prices probably are too low since this was 10 years ago but it is still dirt cheap in comparison to what is sold on the market today both in finished product and refilling.

You will need to purchase the following.

From Home Depot or any hardware store

A 12" length of 2" abs plumbing pipe
(I had to by a 3ft length @ $5.67)

2 pieces, 2" abs slip x 2" female pipe thread fitting @ $1.46 ea

2 pieces, abs 2"MPT cap @ $0.82

2 pieces, 1/2" NPT x 3/4" PEX
I went all out on expenses for this one and paid $2.50 each for these solid brass babies. The PEX style fitting works better than a traditionally used barb as it is easier to remove the hose from the fitting when the unit needs recharging. However, if you are on a tight budget, they are available in plastic which would be 1/2" npt male x 1/2" male barb. Yes, even though vent lines are 5/8" the 1/2" barb works very well and is easier to reomve. These cost $0.54 each

2 pieces gear clamps @ $0.30 each

you will also need some foam cut to size to prevent the carbon from falling into the vent line.

In the picture below you can see all the parts I listed above


Next step would be to drill out the end cap with a 3/4" bit. Once drilled, you need to run a 1/2" NPT tap through it so you can screw in the hose adapter, Note the material of the cap is quit thick and makes for a very sturdy connection once tightened down.


The next step would be to cut the foam pieces which prevent the carbon from falling out the ends. This is easily done by standing the 12" pipe vertically on the foam and tracing with a felt marker then cutting it out with scissors. This works very well as the foam should be a little bigger in order to get a good snug fit.


Now take the 2 slip x pipe fittings and using abs cement glue them to the 12" pipe


Now take one of the foam pieces and push it into one end so that you will end up about flush with the cap when it is screwed on.


Screw cap on snugly by hand (no need to wrench on this) The flip around and fill with activated carbon to about 1" from where the bottom of the foam will sit, insert second foam piece and hand tighten the remaining cap in place. Here is the finished product


This is a very simple installation. All you need to do is locate the holding tank vent line, cut it in an easily accessible area and insert the tube attaching it with the tube clamps. You may want to attach the tube depending on where it is located. The carbon will last a year and is easily replaced by removing the unit, removing the foam, spilling out the old carbon and filling up with new.

Almost forgot, you can buy activated carbon at any pet store, eBay or Amazon as it is commonly used in aquarium filtration. Here is an example which should be good for about 5 years of refills.


Your dock neighbours will thank you, Happy flushing. :-D

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View the latest post Florence

To anyone out there in the path....be safe and heres hoping it turns.....good luck for you... :usa:

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View the latest post Attachment(s) Convert fwd closet into pantry on 405/406

Fwd Closet.jpg
Hello All,
I am wanting to convert the hanging closet in the fwd berth into a storage pantry for the galley. I am interested in how others may have done this. I have changed my mind dozens of times and just not sure of a good way to do this. I've started with making cardboard templates where I would want the shelves. My thought (today anyway) is to make the shelving from melamine. I'm just not sure on a good way to install them that would allow some flexibility in location, and strength to support the myriad of cans and containers the shelves will hold.
I'd appreciate all thoughts, comments, and suggestions.


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View the latest post Carver 370 Voyager battery setup

Hi everyone, this is my first post as we have but recently sold our 33ft trawler and purchased a 1997 Carver 370 Voyager mostly for the creature comforts. My question is to do with the batteries. In our single engine trawler we had a starting battery and 4 golf cart house batteries. Each was charged by one of the two alternators on the engine as well as one channel on the charger for each set. In this boat all 4 batteries are lined up and a switch under the step says one, two or All. Are these setup as one bank of batteries for start and house? I just can't see where the wires go. I don't think they can be since there are two alternators and it is not likely that they would both be charging the same batteries simultaneously. If you can shed some light it would be most appreciated. Thanks for having me on the forum :beergood:


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View the latest post Tank Watch 4 Lights Not Working

Well at least 2 of them are not. The empty and full lights work which leaves the non working Low and Mid lights non functional. Was like this when I purchased the boat and assumed the sender was at fault. Oddly enough the front unit is almost the same except the Mid light does work along with empty and full. Pulled the sender and cleaned them, no change. Ordered new sender and installed, no change! :banghead: Will break out the volt meter and do some testing like I should have done first time around. Just wondering if others have had this issue. I am thinking the low and mid lights are the one that technically should be lit most of the time so maybe the LED's are toast? Are they led bulbs?

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View the latest post Antifreeze Leak, closed coolant system

I was sitting on the back of the boat having a couple "sodas" last weekend with my buddy Dan, he left, I was messing around in the cabin, and the port motor started sounding different. Not bad, not knocking, not even a hot oil lifter tick (motors just sound different when they're running hot), it just didn't have the same sound or frequency to it. So, I went to the helm and the temp gauge was reading 220+ (I didn't get a good look, it wasn't pinned, but it was hot). I immediately shut it down and opened the hatch, damn antifreeze everywhere - couple gallons at least, and the reservoir was empty. I checked it over pretty good, but it was around 2am, dark and I didn't want to mess with it while it was hot, so I buttoned it up, and went home. I figured that I would see the worst of it when I got down to the boat the next morning, but... Nothing...

It was still obviously out of coolant, but no visible signs of where the coolant leaked from. I checked it over real good, no water in the oil, no visible cracks, no blown hoses. I added about a gallon of water, and fired it back up, and it ran great. It did get hot (180) after running for 35-40 min, but that was somewhat to be expected, I didn't top off the coolant, and I didn't bleed the system. However, the boat had no visible signs of a leak, crack or blown hose... I don't get it? No water in the oil, no smoke in the exhaust, nothing. The little bit of water that was left in the reservoir was rusty colored, but not oily. Not sure what could have happened.

It was pretty hot that day, and the lake temp is up at the end of the year. Is there some sort of blowoff valve, or pressure relief valve that could have opened up? The seaweed growth is up a ton too, I'm wondering if my pickups to the freshwater side are clogged, but that wouldn't explain the puked antifreeze all over the bilge. Thoughts?

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