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Hi. I am considering buying a 1984 3207 Aft Cabin and have some concerns regarding the Hull.
Does anyone know whether the hull (below the water line) was still solid glass core or was Carver already using balsa core in 1984?
The engines have low hours and the starboard engine is re-manufactured, are there any known issues with these engines that I need to look out for?
Engines: Twin Crusader
Engines HP: 270
Engines Model: 5.7
Any help with what I need to look out for would be appreciated.
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View the latest post Attachment(s) 530 Volvo D-12 Port engine won’t reverse
Yesterday I was pulling out of my slip and realized my port engine would not go into reverse. It goes into forward with no issues and runs fine. I’ve never had an issue with it not going into reverse before and it has always ran and operated perfectly. It seems pretty random that all the sudden reverse would completely be gone.
I have re-calibrated the controls and that didn’t seem to do anything. It’s experiencing a problem both in the flybridge and the interior helm as well. The only thing I Can think of is the day before I crawled around that engine to replace my gray water sump pump in front of the port engine. I am wondering if maybe I bumped something or where to look for a loose connection etc.
If anyone has any quick tips on where to look or what to check I would greatly appreciate it. I have a feeling it’s a connection or Something easy… Or at least I hope it is!
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Can anyone tell me how to remove the corner piece of a sofa on my 1996 320 Voyager. I am upholstering the boat and have been able to remove most of the pieces of the sofa on both the port and starboard side of the salon, however the corner piece on the port side and the seat just aft of the entrance to the second "cabin" appear to be glued on> Has anyone had experience removing them? Also how do you remove the valances? I thing I will have to remove the blinds and should find the screws underneath.
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My girlfriend just bought a 1986 Carver 4202 and I will be moving onboard for the spring and summer. There is a lot to be done with the electronics up top but the rest is in great shape. We hope to meet other Carver owners for fun and insite.
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Sitting on our new to us 410 Super Sport. Took us 2 years to find the right boat. We have tons of questions and are happy to have found this forum. We'll do some searching around before we ask questions that have already been answered. Thanks in advance!
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We are currently enjoying a 2006 Searay 44 DB Sedan Bridge. We are spending much more time aboard than in the past and are considering moving up to a 55 to 60 foot aft cabin yacht for enhanced comfort. We really like the idea of the hard top with hard enclosure as is offered on the 564, to avoid the inevitable issues with aging vinyl and zippers ect. We are a bit surprised that there are so few manufacturers that offer the hard top with the hard enclosure. I'm assuming that it has to do with the lack of ventilation and expense and difficulty of air-conditioning the bridge. Does anyone have any first hand experience that would suggest that it be wise to stay away from this configuration? We are based in the SF Bay area with some time spent in the delta.
Thanks for any input
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View the latest post Attachment(s) Barrier Coatings are they it worth it?
This past weekend I moved Escape Plan 40 miles downriver to get her pulled out onto the hard and get her bottom paint redone. When I bought her just over two years ago and had her surveyed we noticed a handful of blisters but nothing major that would cause concern. She was pulled yesterday and they started removing the old bottom paint. Well, they found some old blisters that weren't properly repaired in the past. The slurry blast was actually popping some of the old repairs off and others it was loosening. It appears that whoever repaired them for the PO had not removed all the bottom paint, so the edges of the repair materials was feather over the old paint. So now I have about 50 old repairs to re-repair.
So bottom paint and blister repairs are estimated to run me about $5300. The shop is also recommending that I put at least three coats of Interlux 2000E on after the repairs to prevent re-blistering at an estimated cost of an additional $2500.
Is the barrier coating worth the expense? My understanding is that a barrier coat still won't actually prevent any new blisters, but will reduce them. What can I expect if I do and if I don't put on the barrier coating? I have an old receipt where a bottom job was done before and supposedly an epoxy barrier coat put on then, but it is from 10 or 15 years ago.
Presently we are proceeding with lets get the blisters repaired first and then revisit the issue then to determine if we barrier coat or not.
Your thoughts and advice are appreciated.
Thanks in advance...
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View the latest post Attachment(s) New Nav Package
So I am almost done with the installation. Removed an old Raymarine RL80C plus plotter/radar. Two Clarion radio heads, one in the cabin and one on the bridge. Then Reinstalled:
ES128 12” MFD with Chirp Sonor and Navionics Platinum as the master
ES127 12” MFD as the slave
EV1 autopilot with a 70R control head
1 Fusion MS RA770 Radion Head in the cabin controllable from the MFDs or iPhone
6 new 6.5” JL Audio speakers and 2 Bose outdoor speaker for the aft deck
All backbone connected
4 Lumishore SMX53 white and blue transom lights.
Now hopefully I’ll have enough allowance left over for gas to go enjoy all the geewiz
Now for the question. Should I replace the engine instrument dash panels to match the new panel?
Views: 717 • Comments: 19 • Write comments
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Re: 1.5" aluminum shaft anode…
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