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Hello, My aft fuel tanks are dry and I have never used them. My primary qusetion is should they be full is there and issue with the boat planing? What is the best way to manage the fuel burn down? Thanks
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View the latest post Attachment(s) WOT less than 3k
Hi all. Hoping to confirm diagnosis.
New to us boat came with reman long block 5.7 thunderbolt 4v engine. On first cruise would not cross 3k rpm. Installing mechanic adjusted timing and idle. Now on acceleration @ 2500 + mild popping noises and still wont cross 3k. Mech says is control module mounted on top of motor.
Wondering if this rings true to experts here.
Thanks for any insight you can share,
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This past weekend a friend was on our boat, he has the same boat only about 3 years older. He was impressed by how quickly our boat came onto plane and cruised about 24.5 MPH at 3400 rpm. He has 7.4's with carbs. I told him I have the same motors with MPI. Later in the evening, back at the dock he asked to see the motors. When he saw the "Bluewater Horizons" he told me these are magnum motors with 380 HP and 490lbs of torque, I thought the only difference from the standard MPI and the Horizons was fresh water cooling. The standard MPI's are 310hp with 400lbs of torque.
Can anyone confirm or dispel this?
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Okay I am beginning to wonder if I am a jinx to my boat. I moved it to the Gulf Coast of Mississippi a couple weeks ago and then we get a hurricane. Thankfully we didnt get a drop of rain and very light wind as it went east of my boat.
So I am leaving the boat yesterday and realized I didnt have my keys. Yep they are gone and I surmise I left them on my cargo cover of my F150 before I drove away.
Any thoughts on replacing the keys/ switches?
I called Pat in parts at Carver and he was most helpful. They didnt have have the parts but maybe Cole Hersee would? So I called them and they are obsolete with no replacement part number.
I probably can remove the switches and get keys made but I was hopeful to simply get keys from Carver or new switches because they are 20 years old now.
Cabin door is locked as well
Any thoughts because I didnt see this topic on the forum anywhere?
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I am having trouble finding how to remove the top of the water strainer basket that is holding the glass for the seawater pumping into my engines. It looks like there could be a 3 pronged type of wrench ? How do I attach pictures to this forum ?
Many Thanks !
New Bern, NC
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Ok I have a strange one which will require a real GURU to give some new hints. I have read lots of posts about RPM limits under WOT but none of them seem to be my issue. At dock and at idle, WOT will go up to 4500RPM+. Under load (in FWD), both engines are limited to about 3000RPM w WOT. Both engines behave exactly the same. If I try 1 engine at a time under power, no change, meaning each engine still limited to about 3000RPM. We pulled the boat, inspected the shafts, props, bottom, trim tabs and everything seems to check out. Drew some fuel into a glass jar and looks great. Replaced fuel filters and checks fuel lines even cleaned out the fuel vents. Still same issue. For giggles we did a compression test and both engines seem fine. We put 2 different diagnostic tools on and no codes are being thrown. Both engines purr like a kitten at idle and also run strong - just limited to the 3000RMP thing. We looked at the fuel pumps (CoolFuel2) and the input voltage is correct. According to Merc, with WOT we should see about 40psi+ but only get about low 20s. That seems to be wrong of course but the question is "is something causing it to be limited to 20psi or is it truly the pumps"..it.seems strange that both would behave exactly the same. Other than the input voltage to the fuel pumps, what are the other inputs and conditions that it needs to see in order for it to supply the full 40+psi? Furthermore, is their something common to both engines with regards to those other inputs/conditions needed for the fuel pump? Any suggestions welcome please as I am completely STUMPED!
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Hello, I have a 1998 350 Mariner. Does anyone know if this boat has a Holding Tank Filter? If it does, how often should it be replaced and where is it located specifically? I am getting an odor when away for the week and I return. Thanks!
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Just writing in to introduce myself and ask for guidance. We are new boat owners and a bit overwhelmed by “all things boat”. For starters, the water from our fresh water tank smells like rotten eggs. I read to flush the tanks and treat with 1 cup of bleach? We did empty the tank when we 1st bought it 2 weeks ago and refilled it and had a heck of a time pressurizing the tank. Although we didn’t treat it then, I wanted guidance in the proper way to do both (treat & pressurize). The owners Manual isn’t helpful to me.
Issue #3 Two days after we bought the boat, we could barely breathe from the sewer smell when running the front stateroom a/c. It was suggested that the a/c filter needed cleaning? Pardon my ignorance, but do I have a filter? We went on a hunch and had the sewer tanks pumped & sanitized. We are constantly pumping our bilge too. Although it seems better, the whiff of sewer stench lingers.
Thank you in advance for your insights to my stench problems.
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Boat Parts For SaleUsed boat parts, used Carver boat parts, trailers, dinghies, outboards, props...everything but the boats they were attached to. ALL ADS ARE FREE - USERS MUST HAVE AT LEAST 10 POSTS TO PLACE AN ADTopics: 89
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