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View the latest post Attachment(s) New Owner 1998 Carver 405
Hello everyone, Michael here
I have a sea trial and survey this Tuesday on a 1998 405. Contract signed and price agree upon.
Engines are 7.4 MPI Merc 454's I am told. 365 and 367 hours but I am not sure on hp or if they are original to the boat which I hope to learn on the survey. 10E Kohler Generator with 611 hours but it may need repairs I understandand that will be looked at closer in the survey.
Engines on a monthly maintenance contract but guys I dont feel the boat has been used very much. I am paying an extra couple hundred to have compression checks ran. I am looking for 140 to 150 and anything under 120 I was told is going to need repairs soon? My mechanic shop stated with a closed cooling system he would be okay with simply replacing the water pump impellers while it was out for survey. As it is a salt water boat.
Risers, manifolds and elbows replaced November 2017.
New Bimini top and Eisenglass for the front but I am going to need to purchase the rear enclosure. I am not sure it has ever had a rear enclosure on the back as I dont find any snaps/rivets.
Boat has a new fridge freezer 2018 and I plan on having a bottom job while the boat is out for survey and getting ready to be shipped to me. What price should I expect on this bottom job. Several shipyards and lots of competition in the area instead of just one place. I know it may have blisters and repairs may be needed but your thoughts please.
I am going to use the boat on a reservoir that is 16 miles by 7 miles. Pretty much a place to ride the jet skis back to for my 17 year old daughter and her friends. I am 51 years old and I have been married forever (lol)
My thought is to put a tailgater dish on the radar arch and chill, watch some John Wayne movies and westerns because I watch almost no tv now/workaholic.
I am half way through the 447 posts regarding 405's.
It appears I already owe several of ya dinner for the knowledge, most notably Viper
I was a automotive service and parts director for 25 years and now I flip houses and own an insurance agency for the past few years. I am looking forward to being a positive contributor to the forum.
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Greetings Fellow Carver Owners...
My twin engines are Crusader 350 XL HT's I have been renting my boat out to a captain taking his family out for four hour blocks. Mostly he's been filling the tank back up to where it was before taking the boat out. If he happens to run out of time to put gas back in does anyone have a formula I can use that can ballpark how much he owes me for gas?
I thought of noting engine hours before & after...then using an average RPM of 2500 burning 25 gallons of fuel and multiplying times dock fuel rate per gallon???? It's mostly just cruising around San Francisco Bay...
Any thought or ideas???
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View the latest post Attachment(s) towing RIB behind 3607 Carver
http://www.all-about-houseboats.com/hou ... avits.html
Has anyone seen, used, have knowledge of a towing rig as pictured in the attachment; it is from a houseboat forum & they go slow. We usually cruise at 12+kts. RIB is a Novurania 11.5L X 5.5ft.B, weighs 571 lbs. dry total including 197 lb. 25 hp Yamaha. I plan on using the existing typical Weaver Snapdavits on the swim platform as the pivots, hoist it with a winch or block & tackle & secure it with rigid stand off arms from the towing ladder arms to the stand off arm brackets on the transom plus the hoist cable. Probably attach the winch or block & tackle to one of the aft deck vertical stanchions. I'll get some exact measurements including angles & find a mechanical engineer to do a force analysis so I can check with Weaver & make sure the Snapdavits & standoff brackets will carry the load plus a substantial safe margin. That will be an interesting exercise as the amount of buoyancy at the bow partially supporting the weight will be tricky to determine. I'll have a stout cover fabricated to prevent shipping water underway. I've looked at roll on & typical hoist davits for a heavy RIB - cost substantially more than I paid for the RIB plus quite a lod on the swim platform I would think. There will be an issue berthing the boat. Will have to heave to, lower the boat, raise & secure the ladder & use snap davit rings on the RIB to secure it transversely to the swim platform & then proceed very slowly, as usual anyway, into the marina & berth. Won't be an issue anchoring. Any mech. engineers out there that want to take this on? I'm concerned about it bouncing in the close behind wake & forces that might transfer to the boat & attachments.
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The coastguard boater safety course says, "your responsible for damage from your wake". How is this enforced? What is considered damages?
My boat is tied up in a slip at a marina at the end the bay. There is no through traffic - we are at the end. I have my boat tied well (stern in) but, we do get some weather that blows through and kicks everything up. The boat securely tied to floating docks and doesn't touch them even when it's rough. When I get waked the whole boat moves along with the docks. People are constantly moving around the marina faster then they should and my boat gets waked all the time. Incidentally, in my Mariner 350, I can not see the traffic passing in front of my boat when I am in the salon. That being said, when it's rough I know the boat is going to move and we take appropriate repercussions. When it's calm we are a little more at ease, until we are waked. Now, what happens when some wakes up and something gets spilled, or knocked over, or some one falls? How is this enforced? What is considered damages? What is the actual law (in NY)?
On a second note...
When I leave our marina, I have to drive 4 miles across a bay to reach the lake. The bay is about 1/2 mile wide and restricted by a 25 mph speed limit. I like to drive about 20 mph just on plane. My boat throws a fairly large wake and the jet skiers love to ramp off of it. It try to be conscious of other boaters not slow down around them give them a wide birth. But, last weekend (the 4th) was a zoo. People where drifting in the middle of the bay and I was constantly on plane and off plane. If it is not a morning area and I am driving down the middle of the bay, am I responsible for my wake at this point? Should be be aware that they are in a traffic zone and they are going to rocked?
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I have a question , here is a little background, we currently have an electric head in the boat, I have rebuilt the pump/macerator, it seems to work fine but we have had enough with the racket it makes. During the day it is tolerable but at night just too much. I have read about adding a fresh water pump as an add on, but considering the age of all this stuff I am thinking to replace with something newer in design. No vacuflush.
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It's been record hot up here and my AC unit (16,000 BTU) just is not keeping up. 90+ outside (water is 80) and the boat is not cooling down. It cools to high 70's. It works, but just not cooling down the cabin. I would like the get this working the best it can.
I'm not sure if the water that the boat is sitting in is to warm for AC to cool efficiently. I took it for a ride into the lake and the boat seamed to cool a little better when I took it into the lake where the water was cooler. I keep the intake filters in the cabins clean and vacuum them off regularly. I've also replaced some of the duck work with insulated rigid duct work for better flow and R value. I have nice solid stream of water coming out AC through hull fitting.
I'm in fresh water. I keep the sea strainer clean. Last year, I connect the city water (garden hose) to the intake and flushed it out. Some brown water blow out, but not much. Occasionally I will drop a pool bromine tablet into the sea strainer and let it dissolve and flow through the units. I think this will keep any stuff from growing in the lines.
Today, Under the dashboard where the unit lives, I took the AC intake vent off and flushed the coils on the condenser. They where not to dirty, but some grime did come off. They do look cleaner.
My questions is, Since I'm in fresh water, do I need to do a descale flush on the water side of the system? Run some sort of acid through the water side to clean it out?
What else can I do to increase the performance?
Thanks for the info.
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Hello everyone and thanks in advance for your help.. I am a proud new owner of a 1984 36 Mariner.
.My problem is I don't seem to be getting water to my vacuflush toilet and air conditioning heating unit. I would like to know if there is a separate Seacock for this and where it is located.
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UPDATE: problem found! Leak was behind the swim platform shower in the water shore hookup. A fitting cracked. Ughhh. At least it was an easy fix but wow it took forever to find! I even looked at the swim platform shower, WHY didn’t I look at the shore water connection! 4 screws!! Hey Carver friends! You guys helped me create my own air filters for the holding tanks, I am sure you can figure this out! After a winter away from the boat we were able to make it the first of June to stay a month or so. First thing I did was turn on the water (we always flip the fuse off when we leave) and I noticed the pump kept kicking on. I checked the bathrooms, kitchen, and was on my way to check the swim platform shower when I noticed water pouring out under the ice machine/sink. I took off the front, found the leak, fixed it and put the thing back together again. 4 minutes later the pump kicks on. It only runs for 3-5 seconds but it comes on every 4 minutes. I started looking for a leak and found water under the holding tank for the back toilet. I could tell by the color and lack of smell that it was not toilet water. I sucked it out (about 10 gallons) and turned off the pump. water fills back in! I drained the tank, cleared all the lines and slept overnight, no water. I have checked every line I can see, the water pump, took apart the ice maker again, pulled the shower out of the swim platform, pulled out the water hose connection by the ice machine, checked the engine compartment, nothing. I have looked under the sinks, took apart my closet under the ice machine thinking I could see water lines running up to the ice machine and water hose thing, NOTHING Bone dry. I have been looking at the schematics hoping to see what compartments I can look in to find lines or shut offs to eliminate possibilities. I don't think Carver put any shut offs on anything. I filled the tank back up about half way and put grape liquid kool-Aid in it and waited. The leak reappeared and was purple. I decided it HAD to be the tank but I have used a camera and checked all the connections. They are all good. I drained the tank and the water under the holding tank and connected to the dock water. I figured it would stay dry which would mean it had to be the holding tank or the lines from the tank to the pump but the hull filled back up again!. AHHHH the water back in the hull means the leak is in the pressured side of the system? Wow is it tough to follow the water lines around the boat. Any suggestions would be great. I have not checked the hot water tank or anything forward of the engines since the water is only in the back and since the boat is dusty dry except under that tank. Thanks guys! I LOVE this group!
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View the latest post Attachment(s) Hatch gasket?
My boat has a large hatch that opens with two hydraulic rams, and a smaller hatch in the large hatch for quick access, and in case I need access with dead batteries. I had water in the motors when I bought it, and knew about it and drained it all out. Water got in the port motor a 2nd time after I bought it, and I think it came through the engine compartment. I was worried that it was a head gasket or worse, but I did notice after cleaning that I had sudsy water all over my motors, and I didn't use a hard spray. I'm guessing its leaking through the small access hatch hole. I did check and the channel is free and clear, and the drains are open. It used to have a foam gasket mounted on the top piece of the hatch, and it's pretty well shot. I'm guessing it needs replacing. Is this what I need, and if so, what width and thickness is best? My old one is too shot to get dimensions from. Also, when installing, how best to handle the corners? I’m guessing butt joints, should I use some sealer at the joints too, or just keep it tight? It’s on of those deals where I’m guessing overlap will cause a bad seal.
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Re: Aft deck plastic panels
by Wayne162 View the latest post
July 14th, 2018, 10:35 pm
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