we just had a good post on oil so got me thinking if any of you with gas boats regularly or occasionally have oil analysis done? what lab do you use? just "standard" or any special tests? transmission oil tests also?. i did all this when i purchased my 405 several years ago now wondering about doing it again. thanks for your input.

Does anyone have pics of a thruster on a Mariner 350 or 36? I would like to add a bow thruster to my 350, looking for ideas.

We have black granite and and experience lots of fingerprints. Not sure what type of coating may have been applied. Currently, use a windex-type product to clean. Have previously used a stone and granite cleaner which made it worse. Anyone else having the same issues? Looking for cleaner suggestions.
Thanks in advance.

I'm looking g to remove the Seakey from my 2003 boat. Has anyone done this? What all is it wired too?

Thanks

Sometimes pedestal water has some funny plastic taste to it, although I have a filtration system on board no harm in putting in better stuff when filling/using water from the source. Came across this which is similar to the RV stuff and thought it might interest others. Going to buy a 2 pack, one for the permanent pedestal hose and another for my travel hose. Chuck them after the season is over. Same product is available on Amazon US by the way.

https://www.amazon.ca/AmazonBasics-Inline-Water-Filter-2-Pack/dp/B07L3W3W4D/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=coconut+filter+case&qid=1571133048&sr=8-1#customerReviews

We are in the process or installing "dual" marine Puck Isolation transformers behind the main salon TV/Power cabinet, replacing our "factory installed" ProMarine Zinc saver.\

https://www.bridgeportmagnetics.com/bmg ... nsformers/

Marine-Pucks are toroidal (ring shaped) isolation transformers fully embedded in solid epoxy resin inside a cup-shaped non-metallic enclosure. They are sealed hermetically and can be mounted onto a deck or a bulkhead.

There are many advantages of toroidal transformers versus conventional laminated types.
They are up to 50% lighter and much smaller.
They are quiet. No annoying hum when on shore power.
Marine-Pucks are double-insulated (class II devices) not referenced to ground in any way.
They can be adapted to boost output voltage to compensate for drops and fluctuations caused by long dock-runs or in marinas with 208V rather than normal 240V service.
Marine-Puck are available in standard and automatic boost models (B suffix).
B models automatically select boost in case of low input voltage. They include a separate control unit with a non-metallic enclosure measuring 5” x 5” x 7”. Weight 4 lbs.

Is the primay supply to the ref from the 12v or 110v when both are on? I have been told not to leave the 12v breaker on when at dock with shore power on or when the gen is running because the 12v is the primary and the ref is running off the battery.
Thanks for your help

How do I get the bilge pumps to run all the time and not automatically ? there are switches in aft closet,on both the fly and lower helms and on the main pannel. I want to run the mid pump to remove some water but it seems to be set to come on only for short moments.Thanks for your help.

As we all know winterizing the AC can be a B. I usually do it in the water so I can activate the AC pump as on shore I have no access power.

AC pumps are not self priming and therefor you can blow or run fluid past the gears/vanes without any pressure. I just bought one of these https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07DM3SJPT/ref=dp_cerb_1 Which I will insert into a 2 1/2g wide mouth pink stuff container. The other end gets connected to my strainer cap adapter. It comes with long leads and a switch on the leads to turn on and off which is handy. I will use a small RC style battery to run it to avoid connecting it to the boat battery. Since I have 3 AC units I will plug 2 outlets with corks and run the pink stuff switching corks to ensure all three get done. Rather simple and effective.

Well, I finally tired of looking at my circuit breaker panel and seeing all of the panel indicators not working. So after locating a spec sheet for Solico (Sorenson Lighted Controls) I determined what I needed and what I wanted. The original panel lights for the DC side were part # 1835-1-10-20140 or 18 series 14volt incandescent -6' wire leads - white base with no finished bezel - flush translucent green lens and the AC side were 1850-1-10-20140, same as above but 125 volt neon. Here is one of the original lights.


With my other Santego I had learned these were rather bright, as the wattage is 1 watt each. I was determined to put back in LEDs which were only .3 or 1/3 watt.



My biggest issue was finding enough replacements with the same appearance after installation. I needed 32 DC indicators and 10 AC ones. They come with either no finished bezel (so the bezel matches the color of the base, black or white), a bright (silver) bezel or black. It also seems green is one of the harder colors to come by too. most of the time I was find either red or amber. I kept watching the what was in stock at Spemco and Lakeview Electronics. I wasn't picky about the style just that they were green and LED. The AC panels would have to be 18 series as that is the only series for the 125 volt LEDs.

So finally I was able to come up with enough from Lakeview that would match. So I ordered 32 2412-3-23-20340 (24 series 14 volt led - .187 quick connects - black base with black bezel - flush diamond green lens) and 10 1815-1-13-20340 (18 series 125 volt LED-6" wire leads-white base with black bezel-flush diamond green lens). I ordered the quick connects as that will make them easier to replace in the future should the need arise. Just open the panel, pull the wires loose and replace. No more cutting and splicing. The 125 volt LEDs only come in the 18 series, so wire leads is the only choice.




Now the quick connects are .187" which are slightly smaller than the more common .250". So if you do the same, make sure you get the 187 series disconnects. Here's a photo comparing the two.


So with everything in hand I tear into the panels and being the replacement of everything. Looks like a God awful bowl of spaghetti behind that panel, so turn the power off, because I had to trace the wires by hand. The AC side was a little easier, but it was still cluttered.


Here the completed project. You will notice on the AC side I have four light that are different. These were four I already had on hand. Since Solico doesn't put the part numbers on the light I had hoped they would be LED, but turns out they were neon. Oh well at least they match. Now I need to find two 34 series lights for the reverse polarity indicators and all will be like new again.




Now the LED's aren't as bright as the old panel lights were and the diamond lens does have an effect on the lights. as you can see in the photo above of the Dc side. Some appear brighter than others in the photo, but this changes as you change the angle from which you are view them.