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Hi all new member here.. i have a 1999 Carver 530 and the port engine has overheated and Cummins has stated it has to be removed to be rebuilt.... so how is this achieved.. does the galley have to be removed... has anyone on here attempted this.. any help would be greatly appreciated ...Regards Paul
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I will be removing the bimini and frame with the complete set of isenglass panels in late September. I am installing a new hardtop in place of the bimini. The framing is in excellent condition and the bimini top is original with no rips or tears, leaks in a few spots and needs to be treated again. The isenglass front panels in excellent shape, one side panel new and other side has small crack. All zippers are good. The aft deck isenglass panels are in great shape and available too.
If interested shoot me a reply. Items will need to be picked up from Green Turtle Bay Marina, Grand Rivers, KY.
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My wife and I are new the Carver Yacht life. Everything is big and overwhelming. We have had our 2002 356 for about a month with very little big boat experience. That being said we worry a lot. Most of our worry I feel is not knowing what switch to flip when, what is to stay on, or pump this and fill this here, etc. My latest worry yesterday is the forward bilge would come on every 5 minutes like clockwork. It has never run before but continued to to pump yesterday. I turned the dock water hydrant off and it stopped. It has been hooked to the dock water for a month with no issues. I was told the dock water when hooked up bypassed the water tanks and used the dock water pressure on the boat. However when I turn the water hydrant on it seems to be pumping water into the boat causing the bilge to run and what looks to be an overflow vent on the front right of the boat. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated as we are thinking we have made a mistake due to lack of knowledge. Thank you for your help to a couple of new boat owners.
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We just bought our new to us C37 - had 38 hours on her, great shape. She has a black roof, grey hull. Looks like a Batmobile Boat!
The day we took possession, some dock mates of the previous owner told us that Carver had come out to repaint the top just 2 months earlier. At Carvers expense. We didn't think too much of it, though it was not disclosed by the previous owner. Everything passed inspection.
It is now 2 months later and the top part of our hull is chipping, cracking, oxidizing - like a 18" square piece! No idea why - we have only been washing the boat so far. We called the broker who told us to call Carver cause its a warranty issue. Duh.
But Carver is not exactly easy to get ahold of. They sold their assets, who is holding the liabilities and warranties? Anyone know? Any ideas?
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Does anyone own a 92 carver 33’ aft cabin with twin Tamd41b diesels and If so what is the speed at WOT and cruise?
I think I may have the wrong pitch props, it wont get up on plane .
3800rpm WOT @ 15mph and 3100rpm cruise @ 11mph
Burning approximately 1 gallon per mile total for both engines @ 3100rpm
All tanks empty except 220 gallons of fuel. All canvas removed to lessen wind resistance
Typical Volvo smoke on start up (very light fuel smoke) and smokes light black when ran WOT
Engines have 450 hours each and run perfect
Bottom soda blasted and fresh barrier coat / paint. The bottom is clean and so is the running gear
Trim tab fully functional and using them makes no difference in speed
New A17 shafts, props reconditioned and pitched to 18”x16”, shaft logs rebuilt, new cutlass bearings
Racors and engine fuel filters replaced. Engines totally serviced and all breather/ air filters changed
New turbos and they both spool up , new exhaust from engine to stern, new SS elbows
Valves adjusted to .016”
Tested lift pump pressures and cleaned / tested and cleaned injector pump pressure regulator valves
R&R cleaned and tested fuel injectors
Fuel is new and treated filled to the top both tanks to prevent moisture
Any suggestions I’m running out of things to check or maybe this is just a slug slow boat.
The last owner records show 17.5 knots WOT (about 19mph from a third party sea trial) before the bottom came up and hit this boat in 2017. Apparently he had it fixed. I bought the boat in 2019.
Thanks for any feedback
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I recently purchased a 1994 voyager. There is a pre-existing speaker system without a radio installed on my Boat. My question is where is the origin point for installing the radio. I am unable to track where all the feeders and audio feed are emanating from. I have searched for wiring diagrams of the system and have not found anything useful. Thank you
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My 28 Riv has a hot water tank that can be heated with shore power or by one of the water cooled engines - through the heat exchanger. We think there is a break in the heat exchanger and that water is escaping.
Here is our plan, but I need some help.
1. We plan on disconnecting the hoses from the engine at the hot water tank heat exchanger connections.
2. We will install 2 valves on the connections on the hot water tank for the heat exchanger (this will close things off).
Question. Can I cap off the two hoses to/from the engine or do they need to be in a loop? The problem is it is pretty tight in there and connecting the two hoses in a loop is pretty challenging.
Really appreciate the help
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Well, I came to the boat last night to find that the A/C in the stateroom would not work . Spent the morning troubleshooting it an it appears that the compressor has locked up. It’s a 12,000 btu unit from Marine Air and it’s original to the boat, so it’s given 30+ years of service. The salon unit was replaced a few years ago with a new Dometic (Cruisair) 16,000 btu and has never struggled to cool it portion of the boat. I have spent the most of the day shopping for a new unit.
I’ve looked at Marinaire and according to the website and their calculator I only need a 9,000 btu unit for the stateroom. I also ready on their website where they cautioned against over sizing a unit. Leading me to believe it’s better to go smaller that to go larger. I can get a 9,000 btu unit from them for $1489 including shipping. They do have an 11,000 btu unit, but it will cost around $1750 with shipping.
I also found a 12,000 btu Wabesto unit from Marine Parts Source for $1549 including shipping. While I do like some features of the Marinaire unit a little better, I don’t think those features are worth $200 more, but I’ve been known to be wrong!
My question I guess is, would today’s 9000 btu unit be the equivalent to a 30+ year old 12,000 btu unit? I know that todays technology has to be more efficient, but does that translate to capacity?
What say you guys? Go with the 9000 btu unit or stay at or closer to 12,000?
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View the latest post Attachment(s) Replacement horns
My horns on my 1994 390 are tired, so much they sound like a turtle crossing the road. I found them up front under the forward cubby. They are strange looking as they are down turned to the bottom cut out . I am going to see if i can get a pic. Anyone else know what I mean or replaced their horns?
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Purchased a new to us 1988 3227 Convertible that was not equipped with a windlass. A friend gifted me a Lofrans X2 he had as a spare, but I'm not sure where to install given small rode locker and limited deck space.
Has anyone installed a windlass on this year/model?
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Boat Parts For SaleUsed boat parts, used Carver boat parts, trailers, dinghies, outboards, props...everything but the boats they were attached to. ALL ADS ARE FREE - USERS MUST HAVE AT LEAST 10 POSTS TO PLACE AN ADTopics: 182
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For Sale Bimini and stainless…
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