Riviera Windlass Project

[SunsetSteve]

I think I am OK for venting the battery - see pic below, which shows holes shared by the wiring cables that I assume also vent the battery box into the engine room.

The other pic: is there anything more terrifying than finding a wire that is not connected to anything? I went ahead and took a chance by securing the black wire with the yellow ring terminal to the neg post. I hope the boat doesn't explode.

Pic order is reversed. The port battery wasn't charging - I had to top up all cells. I'll see if it recovers by next week.

[Viper]

Source of the post.... "Sealed" batteries offer a bit of protection but they will also vent.....

+1

[SunsetSteve]

Reviving this thread in order to carry on with the project.
I have decided to go with the 700 Lewmar Pro Series windlass https://www.marineoutfitters.ca/index.cfm?category=10379|10173|11907&product=68843408&code=743683306488 and have to decide between the 4 ga or 6 ga cable.
Then to learn how to run the power through the panel like Mike's people did. (see above somewhere). I think 6 ga will be good and 4 ga will be difficult to work with in terms of connections. So the Contactor will be up in the anchor locker with a wired up-down switch (under $20) and another at the helm. Like Mike, I would like to see the breaker cloe to the panel. I just don't know how to hook it in to the panel then back to the batteries. I did this with the Pro 550 on my Albin 25 but that was simply switch at the helm and a few feet down to the battery.

[Viper]

Source of the post....have to decide between the 4 ga or 6 ga cable.....

The deciding factor must be based on how much the unit draws and the length of the circuit from the source to the load and back. If the calculations work out to be 4 ga or bigger, then that's what you must go with whether it's more difficult to work with or not....if you want it to operate properly and be safe. You can find wire gauge requirement charts on-line at places like Blue Sea, West Marine I think has them, etc. Determine the length of the circuit, the amperage the device draws, and look at the chart to determine the gauge required for the installation. For the best result, refer to the 3% voltage drop chart but the 10% drop chart would be okay for this application as well IMO.

[SunsetSteve]

The chart overlaps the 6 and 4 AWD, and the cost diff isn't really a factor in my mind.

[Capt'n CRUNCH!]

Hi SunSet Steve,
Did you complete your install?
I am eager to figure out a windlass solution for my 1984 Santa Cruz, with a bow mount (surface), and feeding the original rode locker. (Sometimes difficult to feed the rope into there by hand!)
Do you have a pic, and how/what type of anchor are you hanging??
Thanks,
Mark