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2000 Carver Voyager 450 Electrical Drawing DC Alternators

Discussion of batteries, chargers, wiring, generators, distribution panels, battery switches, etc.
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Sgodfrey
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2000 Carver Voyager 450 Electrical Drawing DC Alternators

Postby Sgodfrey » November 18th, 2021, 12:53 pm

Hello -

I have a 2000 Carver 450 with twin 6CTA.

Have digital volt meters install on all batteries. The system is simple and appears to be stock with the exception that the previous owner did upgrade to a Magnum Invertor. The other components like the isolators, fuses and battery switches appear to be the original. House and Engine Starters are old school 8D's

Under shore power:

Original Charles Charger charges 2 starter batteries and 1 Genset starter
House is charged by Invertor

While underway, I don't seem to be keeping up on the House Bank via the alternator. I am seeing 12.6 volts while the two starters without any load seem to run around d 13.0 volts. Not much of load (did not measure) other than the invertor running a pair of fridges and modern electronics with a few lights left on. I have not started any trouble shooting or yet with amp clamps and was wondering if an electrical diagram is available (I wish Pat was available). It is my understanding from Tony at SBMAR that you want to see 12.9 volts to be holding steady on a house battery.

Everything seems to work great while running the genset. I would prefer not to do that and have a house bank that stays healthy without running the genset. Seems that a pair of 8.3 L beasts should keep my house bank happy.

I am wondering whether:

(1) Anyone have the main dc alternator to battery drawings for a 450?
(2) Is it typical carver to wire the two alternators to a single isolator?
(2) Is the second isolator typically used for the Charles Bulk charger?
(3) Has anyone upgrade the 22SI stock alternators - It might be possible that I run too much at lower RPM and that is causing the voltage loss on the house.

Any other comments or observations would be appreciated?

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Re: 2000 Carver Voyager 450 Electrical Drawing DC Alternators

Postby km1125 » November 18th, 2021, 5:43 pm

I doubt it's an RPM issue, unless all the cruising you do is at idle or just above.

Not sure if it applies to yours, but I thought some of these installations used one engine alt for start battery charging and the other for house battery charging. And in those scenarios there was also a fuse for the house battery charging on the bulkhead forward of the engine.

Without much of a load on an 8D, you'd probably see 12.6 for quite a while even if it's not receiving any charge, so I'd suspect you're not seeing any charge getting there from an alternator.

What do your isolators look like? (now many wires and how many outputs on each)?

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Re: 2000 Carver Voyager 450 Electrical Drawing DC Alternators

Postby Pflat » November 22nd, 2021, 9:32 pm

I have a 99, 45 voyager withe same problem. The boat is a power hog. I swapped every halogen bulb with LED’s but the real power draw is the inverter. The inverter powers the fridge, ice maker and outlet for the salon stereo. The refrigerator (not original) runs straight DC. I don’t worry about the ice maker underway and don’t use the stereo either. I have disabled the inverter. The boat still drains the house battery on the hook and I often use the genset. I purchased another 8D that I will hook up to the existing house battery. I also did some reading on the battery isolators, apparently the type carver used draws a lot of amps.
5EAC0727-F6D9-45E8-BD92-BE7B1E4B4E5B.jpeg
0658A1F8-8776-4DC9-BAAC-1B4DC97157A0.png
. I thought about doing something like this.
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Re: 2000 Carver Voyager 450 Electrical Drawing DC Alternators

Postby Sgodfrey » November 30th, 2021, 10:42 am

Thank you for posting this information and the diagram. I am away from my boat but had concluded that I do need to take a look at the isolator as well to evaluate the degree of voltage loss I am experiencing.

I found the following test procedure for isolator testing:

Check to see if the isolator is working with a digital multi-meter set on “DIODE CHECK” mode. Put the red lead on the alternator input terminal and the black lead on one of the battery output terminals…..you should get a reading around .4 on most meters. Then reverse the leads and you should get a reading of infinity. Perform this procedure from all of your alternator input terminals to all of your battery output terminals. If you get a different reading with the red lead on a battery terminal then the isolator is defective.

There are several more modern isolators available that I am considering installing:

https://www.promariner.com/-/media/inri ... 1027184114

https://www.sterling-power-usa.com/zero ... lator.aspx

Finally SBMAR does sell upgraded alternators with higher output at lower RPM

https://www.sbmar.com/community/topic/c ... r-upgrade/

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