Bottom paint

[Wayne162]

I know this probably has been a popular topic of discussion on the forum in the past, but I need some guidance on this topic. I will be performing maintenance on the hull this spring of my Carver 405, a task that I have never performed. What I know is the hull was most likely done 3 years ago prior to the owner I purchased from. From what I can tell is this guy did minimal maintenance in the 2 years he owned it before me. It was kept in fresh/brackish water and my surveyor said the bottom was good through the 2015 season. My question now is once pulled and cleaned up, what to paint the bottom with? In reading I like what I have read on ablative's, but I have many questions and there are a lot of products out their. My boat is in salt/brackish water and I want durability but I don't want to break the bank in doing it. Ease of application is a plus as I will be doing the project myself with a rag tag crew and much grogg! Any suggestions either pros or cons is appreciated.

Also, what are members experiences if any in using DRX products on the props/shafts etc. Thanks all!

[mjk1040]

Well, Wayne, you are right there are a lot of products to chose from, each with it's own claim. I'm in fresh water and usually paint the entire bottom every other season, and I'll touch up the water line in the off season just for show and I purchase what ever I can get the best deal per gallon on and it works for me. I tape of the water line with good painters tape and start rolling the paint on. But you are in salt water so it may pay to spend a few extra bucks. Don't know about DRX products, but do your research on the correct anodes to use in your type of water. Hope this helps and does not confuse you more. Mike

[Wayne162]

Thanks Mike.

[Viper]

I definitely prefer ablative paint. Once you go through the trouble of sanding off all the multiple layers of hard coatings that have been applied over the years, you’ll never want to do it again. With ablatives, you don’t get an accumulation of hard layers that peel off and will eventually need to be sanded again. Ablatives wash away a little at a time, and take the growth with it. If you leave it long enough, you’ll simply end up with a bare hull again, but no sanding needed when it comes time to reapply new coats. When you go to recoat 2 or 3 years later, just wipe down with a wet rag or a wash brush and water, let dry and paint away.

The duration between needing to apply additional ablative coats is directly proportionate to the type of boating you do, and the number of coats you apply. The more coats, the longer it will last. The faster you go, the quicker you’ll need to recoat. The areas that wear the quickest are the leading edges at the bow and trailing areas at the stern so no matter how many coats you add to the whole hull, always add more at these locations for durability.

Unlike some hard-shelled coatings, ablatives can stay out of the water for months and will still activate once it gets launched again. Some hard-shelled products will not and must be launched within a given time frame after the product is applied or they will not be as effective. A lot of folks don’t realize it but these are rendered useless after haul out where I live because we’re out of the water for the winter. The paint may still look okay come launch, but it doesn’t do much.

The hard coatings are typically porous, and hold the biocide behind the outer hard shell. The biocide seeps through the pores and keeps the growth at bay. Once the biocide is depleted, all you’re left with is another useless hard shell.

[Wayne162]

Thanks again Vioer. Your dicertation explained the process for the novice.

[feeez]

Viper / Wayne162

I am also facing this task in about a month or so. The existing paint is definitely ablative as all the usual spots are starting to get thin and the white from the hull is starting to show through. I do not know what brand of paint is on there now and the previous owner (another forum member) did not own the boat long enough to have to find out.
I have been thinking of using Petit Horizons Ablative. The cost is reasonable and it seems to have a very good list of other paints that it is compatible with.
Opinions, as always, welcome.

Thanks
Fraser

[Wayne162]

I have the same questions Feeez, my use is salt water. I was in West Marine the other day in Kent Narrows, MD. and noticed cans on the shelf that had been dented up but were for sale at $250 a gallon. I had to ask if that was the price for one or a case I asked if they had to go to the body shop to get the dents fixed for the price!

[Viper]

I think the only coatings you have to worry about are the VC and Micron type of paint formulations. Everything else is basically a sand and apply but of course check the manufacturer's specs. If you already have ablative on there, you can even scrub with a wet rag, then ensure the hull is dry before applying the product. This is providing the bottom was pressure washed after the last haul out and there is no marine growth from the previous season. I've used the rag method in areas where dust from sanding was a concern. That only works for softer ablatives of course.

Protect yourself, you don't want to inhail any antifouling paint dust.

[Viper]

I have the same questions Feeez, my use is salt water. I was in West Marine the other day in Kent Narrows, MD. and noticed cans on the shelf that had been dented up but were for sale at $250 a gallon. I had to ask if that was the price for one or a case I asked if they had to go to the body shop to get the dents fixed for the price!

Good to know you guys are paying just as much south of the boarder as we are

[Wayne162]

Shopping the Pettit line for affordable ablatives. I won't have to do the job until the summer so i'm just planning it out at this point.