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winterization 1994 390 CPMY/LENGHTY!

Anything related to the operation of your boat. Steering, Bilge Pumps, thru-hulls, bottom paint, etc.

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Re: winterization 1994 390 CPMY/LENGHTY!

Postby Viper » October 9th, 2016, 8:53 pm

I'll just put this out there FWIW; I'm sure some have used the cheaper regular plumbing antifreeze for years with seemingly no ill affects, but you can't compare the $3 a gallon stuff to the mix that is specifically blended for plumbing AND engines, there IS a difference. Now if you can get that for $3/gal, that is a good deal. I only use the stuff blended for engines also.

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Re: winterization 1994 390 CPMY/LENGHTY!

Postby mjk1040 » October 10th, 2016, 5:39 am

Viper are you saying that you use engine antifreeze? The green or yellow stuff you put in your vehicle radiators? It's an environmental issue here, unless you can contain it all. For years all everyone ever did was just drain the engines, but started to find that not all the water was getting out and everyone around us now drains and refills with RV antifreeze. So it's not all about cost. I agree the green stuff would be a better antifreeze choice no matter the cost because engines and parts are not cheap.
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tonyiiiafl
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Re: winterization 1994 390 CPMY/LENGHTY!

Postby tonyiiiafl » October 10th, 2016, 6:25 am

I think he means the red not pink stuff. The pink stuff does slush up but not freeze, as the red stays liquid. ALL great advice here and I thank all who helped me!
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Re: winterization 1994 390 CPMY/LENGHTY!

Postby Midnightsun » October 10th, 2016, 6:44 am

Automotive antifreeze in the sea water portion would be the equivalent of dumping motor oil into the water. No way you can get it all out and when you start her up in spring it's in the water. Not a good thing and definitely a no no, hopefully we misunderstood.

As for winterization in general, below are my thoughts for raw water cooled boats. Now that I have fresh water cooled I do still drain and then run about 8 gallons of the pink stuff through the strainer of each engine while on the hard. I run in pristine fresh water so this means no salt deposit/critter removal is required.

That being said, things differ quite a bit from manufacturers and no one method suits all exits. My new to me diesel Volvo's/mufflers are self draining and even when I pull engine hoses and plugs, I may get a cup of water at best however knowing what it costs and takes to get one replaced, I went completely overboard. As mentioned, the pink stuff with corrosion protection is cheap. Here it costs me $9 Canadian for a 2 1/2 gallon jug.


The most important thing is to understand what and why you are doing your winterization procedure. Once you master this you cannot go wrong.


Adding pink stuff (assuming you bought the one with the corrosion additive) is arguably a corrosion protection which IMHO is a waste of money, time and antifreeze but if it makes you feel good and sleep better, use it.


Food for thought

1) All liquids freeze and will cause damage.
2) When a liquid freezes it "grows" so to say and takes the path of least resistance. This is why freeze plugs work up to a certain extent.
3 )If you put in -30 antifreeze and it gets down to -35 then you are looking for trouble or relying on the freeze plugs. Remember "air don't freeze"
4) If there is a bit of water left in a hose or elbow, no worry, it will freeze in the path of least resistance and as long as there is space for it to expand (air) there it will not damage anything as opposed to a full block.

Did you ever forget a bottle of wine in the freezer? Usually just pops the cork. ;-)
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Re: winterization 1994 390 CPMY/LENGHTY!

Postby Viper » October 10th, 2016, 10:02 am

mjk1040 wrote:Source of the post Viper are you saying that you use engine antifreeze? The green or yellow stuff you put in your vehicle radiators?....

Absolutely not. As I mentioned, it is a "plumbing AND engine" antifreeze. It's pink just like the cheaper plumbing only antifreeze but it has other non-toxic additives like corrosion inhibitors and lubricants for engines, raw water pumps, fresh water pumps, t-stats, seals, hoses, seacocks, check valves, regulators, heads, etc. Worth it for the extra cost IMO. I prefer this stuff sitting in my engines, pumps, and hardware for 6 months rather than just regular plumbing antifreeze. Most of the regular plumbing antifreeze is rated for plastic pipes/hose only and NOT recommended for use in some metal applications such as engines or metal pipes/lines such as your air conditioners, or anything containing copper and brass like heat exchangers, oil coolers, etc. I rather err on the side of caution and use a product that is safe for all systems, especially when I'm ultimately responsible for every boat I winterize.

Try this (I have); take two clear plastic water bottles, fill one with regular -50* plumbing antifreeze and the other with -50* plumbing/engine antifreeze. Put them outside for the winter. Every time I've done this (it can get really cold up here!), the one that crystalizes first is the regular plumbing antifreeze even though they have the same rating. The temperature needs to drop several degrees further before the blended stuff does the same. I prefer that. Yes, I sleep very good at night ;-)
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Re: winterization 1994 390 CPMY/LENGHTY!

Postby bud37 » October 10th, 2016, 10:10 am

I have an idea Viper may have been talking about the difference between the rv antifreezes not automotive......when you look at the labels on rv anti you will start to see that the cheaper stuff is flammable and the more expensive is not.....the flammable has some form of alcohol ( don't really know the correct name), that is what messes some things up they have found.....I always look for the stuff without the flammable icon....well I see we have written at the same time..woops..... :beergood:
The above is strictly my opinion always based on years of doing...remember to support local business , it pays back.

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Re: winterization 1994 390 CPMY/LENGHTY!

Postby Viper » October 10th, 2016, 10:20 am

Bingo Bud37. Yes, we are talking about winterizing anti-freeze here, not engine coolant.
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Re: winterization 1994 390 CPMY/LENGHTY!

Postby mjk1040 » October 10th, 2016, 10:39 am

Ok I understand what your saying now. Do you have any brand names I could look up. I'll google it though. Thanks! Mike
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Re: winterization 1994 390 CPMY/LENGHTY!

Postby Viper » October 10th, 2016, 11:01 am

bud37 wrote:Source of the post....the cheaper stuff .....has some form of alcohol......

Totally forgot to mention that bud37, but excellent point. The problem with alcohol is that it has some undesirable effects on some materials, AND it evaporates throughout the storage period which decreases the protection rating so that part way through the winter, a -50* rated alcohol based product will no longer protect to that spec. Yes, I sleep very well at night ;-) ;-)

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Re: winterization 1994 390 CPMY/LENGHTY!

Postby Viper » October 10th, 2016, 11:12 am

mjk1040 wrote:Source of the post Ok I understand what your saying now. Do you have any brand names I could look up. I'll google it though. Thanks! Mike

Mike, there are several brands out there but you're basically looking for one that specifically says it's for use in plumbing systems AND for engine storage/winterizing. Pretty sure West Marine in the States carry's their own brand of it, Starbrite, Merc, etc.

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