Maxwell RC windlass problem

[Low Flyer]

I had a few problems with the windlass last Fall not doing what I requested. I would select DOWN or UP and I would hear a "click" but no movement unless I physically moved the gypsy back and forth a few times. Today that did not seem to help at all. I had to release the clutch and hand crank the rope and chain up. If you have not done this before (spoiler alert) it can take a few minutes and WEAR YOU OUT.
Since the solenoid is clicking does that mean the motor is not starting? Need new brushes maybe?
Is there a quick way to diagnosis the problem?
What is the fastest way to remove the motor for repair?

Thanks in advance.

[Midnightsun]

The windlass is one of those things that unfortunately gets neglected all the time. It should be serviced on a regular basis however since you do not know how to remove the motor I will assume it has never been done in over 20 years. Believe it or not, they recommend servicing every 3 months which is rather crazy.

The oil seals go dry with time and tend to leak which leaves you with a dry gear case not to mention bearings/bushings wearing out. You should check the oil level once a season also through the sight glass which most do not even know exists. I am only familiar with the Discovery series but they are very easy to remove and service. One big nut removes the motor and the 3 or 4 screws need to be removed to get the windlass off the deck assuming the installer did not use 5200! Normally only a foam gasket is used to make the seal so it comes off rather easily.

Go here and download the manual for your model. Remove it, open it up and see what is wrong as it could be mechanical, electrical or a combo of both. Regardless, time to remove and service and a reminder to all that it does need to be looked at every so often. http://www.maxwellmarine.com/support_manuals.php

[Viper]

Before you take the hardware apart, check to see if it's an electrical issue. You need to find out if there is 12 volts getting to the motor when you call for the unit to work. If you know how to use a volt meter, take a reading at the solenoid box between the negative terminal on the end of the box and the middle terminal on the side that has three large terminals on it. This will confirm if you're getting 12 volts to the solenoid reversing box. With 12 volts confirmed, leave the lead on the negative terminal and one of the positive terminals beside the middle one you just tested while someone at the help pushes the switch to the down position. If you get nothing, keep the lead on the negative post and take a reading from the positive post on the other side of the middle one. If you get nothing at either position, it's likely a faulty relay box or a bad control switch at the helm.

To check if the control circuit working properly and that you're getting 12 volts to the control side of the box, you need to check voltage at the small control wire plug on the box. The middle contact is negative and the two beside it are the positive contacts. Again, as above while someone is at the helm operating the unit down, take a reading from negative and both positive contacts. If you get nothing, the problem lies with the control circuit and could be anything from the helm switch to the wiring. Given that you're hearing a click though, it sounds like the control circuit is asking the solenoids to operate, so either they are faulty or the motor is.

Either way, as Hans says, these units must be serviced on a regular basis so you should follow lubrication instructions in the manual even if it turns out to be an electrical issue.

Let us know what you find.

[feeez]

Source of the post The windlass is one of those things that unfortunately gets neglected all the time. It should be serviced on a regular basis however since you do not know how to remove the motor I will assume it has never been done in over 20 years. Believe it or not, they recommend servicing every 3 months which is rather crazy.

Great!! another project!!! LOL I just pulled the manual for mine and there is a good section on preventative maintenance......
This is why we all come here to help keep our Carvers running smoothly.

Thanks
Fraser

[Low Flyer]

MIdnightsun, thanks for the info but don't assume it hasn't been done for almost 20 years. I, like most on the forum, have not owned their boats since new. Perhaps the previous owners took better care then I have in my 4 years per your post. As "feeez" said, "another project". I do have the numerous manuals that came with the boat and I will admit that I haven't taken more than a cursory look at some of the many pieces and parts unless something was wrong. Now that I know, it will always be on my list and thanks again for the info.

Viper, some of the troubleshooting info revealed some symptoms that point at gearbox and brushes. I will check all the connections while I am in there to ensure it it corrosion free prior to re-installation. Thanks for the advice.

On that note, do any 355 owners know if that motor can be accessed from the forward berth anchor line locker? If unable I will have to remove it topside which entails a little more work.

I will post my results after my findings.

[Viper]

I've done a few of these on 355s but I'll be damned if I can remember (it's an old age thing!). Almost positive you access from the v-berth.

[jcoll]

I haven't tried to remove mine for service (although I'm sure it's time) but it looks accessible from the anchor locker. I'm sure it will be a "new miserable experience" when the time comes. Good luck.

[Low Flyer]

Jury duty the last few days... I'll try to look at it on Thursday and let the forum know what I find out.
BTW, I found out I am not prejudice ... I don't like everyone equally. Sorry, long few days.

[Viper]

Source of the post....I found out I am not prejudice ... I don't like everyone equally....

[Low Flyer]

Released from JD (wonder why - see previous post) so I had the opportunity to work on the windlass.

You guys were right, I can access the windlass through the anchor chain/rope locker. Much better laying on the forward berth then having to be topside. Now to the work performed so far.

I unscrewed the locking collar but the unit would not release. Probably due the fact that I haven't serviced the unit as required. All the wiring and connections were clean and looked good. Took the motor off and and had it checked out at local automotive and marine rebuild place and the verdict was strong both directions and did not look 19 yrs. old. Went back to the boat and removed the lower gear case and there was the problem. It only uses 2.4 oz of gear oil and most of it seemed to be there although I could not see the sight gauge due to its position. Saw the problem as soon as I brought it into the light.

The worm screw drive that mates against the brass gear keyed to the shaft was missing about two rows of threads right in the middle. There is also a groove cut into the casing all the way around where those pieces rubbed until they were gone. I am now surprised she didn't give up sooner.

To keep from having future bearing problems I ordered a complete gear housing to mount the motor onto and then will screw the new assembly back into place. It is going to take a few weeks to get the part though

I can almost remember a time that the anchor was stuck on something when It came time to head to the dock. Although I motored to the anchor the winch was having a hard time pulling it up. I played out enough chain and line to hook to a rear cleat and yank it off the bottom but I think that may have already caused the damage. That was the Summer before last so she held out a long time.

I will update you on the new gearbox IF I have anymore problems after install. Now, per my maintenance schedule, I will check the gearbox and fluid.