Carver Mariner 350 City Water Hookup - Winter

[bud37]

Source of the post You cant pump it into the shore water now. If you do, you will be pumping in PINK which will push/displace FRESH WATER through to the manifold.

Your only course of action now is to disconnect the shorewater hook up at the transom and any residual pressure should release the fresh water back through there - if your taps are closed off.

+1 on the transom shouwer.

To add to Lyndons post, It occurs to me that you could use your shop vac and suck it out thru the hose ....shop vacs are great for removing water from systems and used on blow will push water out as well.

[denpooch]

Thanks folks.
Lyndon 670, the taps have been opened so I do not think there will be any pressure.
When disconnecting at the transom will the water line 'drop low' into the bilge? I am thinking if this is the fact any freshwater will drain down and out.
Do you think this will do the job?

[denpooch]

Bud37 perhaps your thought is very good. Just disconnect the line and suck out whatever is there. No need to drop the line into the bilge. (just noticed your post)

[Lyndon670]

Mike (Bud37) has the best approach.

The other option is to lift the aft bed and unplug the shore water "in" to the manifold (I'm pretty sure this is where your manifold is) and then blow from the shore water connection.

[denpooch]

Lyndon excuse this sophomoric question but what do you mean by the manifold?
Does that have to do with bypassing the potted water?

[Lyndon670]

The shorewater line goes to a manifold which splits the incoming water in multiple directions - the water tank line also comes here. When your shorewater is connected and flowing, the water goes through the manifold and arrives at all of your outputs without the need for the waterpump. This also elimiates the need to have two full seperate water line system - one for your tank water and one for your shorewater.

So, understand that when you pressurize the fresh water line from the tank with pink antifreeze, you push pink back through the system until it hits the freshwater block (the water in the line towards the shorewater connection on the aft side of the manifold) and cant go any further. If you do this and then pump pink into the line from the shorewater, you end up moving that fresh water back through the manifold and thus you are no longer winterized.

If you disconnect the shorewater line input line on the manifold, and then introduce pink from the shorewater connection - you end up displacing the fresh water that is in the line from the shorewater to the manifold and replacing it with pink.

Clear as mud?

[denpooch]

Yes, as clear as mud! Thanks.

[tomschauer]

You cant suck it out with a shop vac, the dock water inlet has a check valve built in.

[bud37]

Source of the post You cant suck it out with a shop vac, the dock water inlet has a check valve built in.

Sure you can......remember Lyndon suggested to remove the dock water inlet fitting and disconnect the hose behind it, then vac away,only need to open a valve somewhere and the pink that is already in there will come out to the vac,done.......

[Viper]

Most vessels simply employ a TEE fitting to connect the dockside water line into the water circuit. After you run antifreeze through the entire system, open the faucet closest to the dockside water inlet (all others closed). Force air or antifreeze (I prefer antifreeze) through the dockside water inlet and you will see water exiting the faucet. This faucet would have already been winterized when you did the rest of the system first and you're now re-introducing water again, that's why I prefer running antifreeze through the dockside water fixture. When you do, you'll first get antifreeze from the initial run followed by water, then antifreeze again. All done.

The opposite way of doing the entire system through the dockside water inlet is much the same as long as you then go through the same process as above but for displacing the water in the fresh water pump and its outlet line to the first TEE.