Port/Starboard Handrails

[waybomb]

While you have those nuts off, you'll want to pull the screws, lift the stanchions, clean the area out, and rebed them. Water intrusion ruins boats.

[Viper]

Source of the post Was not planning on “sealing” any holes......

You may want to reconsider that. While the thread lock might seal the threads, it does nothing to seal the space between the fastener and the surrounding deck (hole). This would leave you open to water intrusion to the living space below as well as the core. Over time, this would ruin the core and require much more work to correct. In fact, if the fasteners have been loose for some time and she's been in the open and exposed to the elements, you may want to consider evaluating the condition of the core in those spots. If you have to remove these to refasten, seal, and re-bed, now would be the time to correct a failed core. If you don't, it'll get worse because the assembly will loosen again due to core compression. The remedy may not be as huge an undertaking as you may think.

[km1125]

If they are loose, you might want to remove them first to see if water got down inside and needs some drying out.

Then, you should consider some sealant both below the stauntion base and around the screws. If you're going to go to all that work to tighten them, then make sure they're sealed so they last a long time.

I think mine all have nylock nuts, so you really shouldn't need thread lock.

Look around the boat closely. You will not have to remove panels to get to all of them. You'll be able to see what's involved on the ones you can see, so when you get to the ones you have to remove panels for, you'll have some ideas.

Some of the easy ones are in the v-berth and in the aft cabin closet and head cabinet. The hard ones are in the salon where I have to remove panels to get access.

[StDuckie]

off topic question. Are the plastic CARVER port/starboard emblems available?

[StDuckie]

Great advice. Will seal/re-bed stanchion plates and let dry to ward against wet core. Thank you all.

[PhilH]

Suggest 3M 4200. Tough, waterproof (very impt) but also removable and does not harden like 3M5200.

[Viper]

as another option, see my post in another thread re using butyl tape vs caulking about half way down the page:
https://www.carveryachtowners.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&p=20035#p20035

[bud37]

Source of the post as another option, see my post in another thread re using butyl tape vs caulking about half way down the page:
https://www.carveryachtowners.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&p=20035#p20035

Where do you source the tape in our neck of the woods and does it come in a size range, is there a thickness that is more useful ???? Thanks.......

[Viper]

I get mine from a marine wholesaler but you should be able to get butyl tape from any marina. They should be able to order it in if they don't carry it as a regular item. Butyl tape is used for many things now like wrapping a leaking pipe as a temporary fix. You can get it just about anywhere; Canadian Tire, Home Depot, Amazon, etc. It comes in different widths, I use the 1" and it's about 1/8" thick. Here is something similar just as a quick Google search:
https://www.amazon.ca/Dicor-BT-1834-1-Butyl-Seal-Tape/dp/B001FCB4JS

As I mentioned, there is a proper way to seal around fasteners with this stuff but the same rule applies to caulking. That's another thread but I'm sure you can find info on the net.

[StDuckie]

Hello Carver mates. I need to replace the Main 30 amp Breaker switch [see pic] on 1991 3607. Will any 30 amp breaker work?