What bilge pump is this?

[km1125]

The tabs aren't threaded for screws, they just have holes so that you can screw a buss bar to them so that they're all fed from the same source (if that's what you need). Otherwise a push-on crimp fitting just pushed on over it.

The pump should have a "minimum breaker" spec, which is what is required to run it under load. It should also have a "locked rotor" spec, which the fuse or breaker needs to be LESS THAN, so that the fuse or breaker trips if the rotor is locked. If your 'locked rotor' spec is greater than 15A, then I'd go with a 15A breaker.

Also, do you know what size wire is feeding the pump? If you've gone to a bigger pump, it may be drawing more current, necessitating a larger breaker. However, the pump may not perform up to spec if there is voltage drop due to a wire size limitation. It will still work, just never pump up to the specs. It also may never reach the breaker trip rating under a "locked rotor" condition, as the voltage drop would decrease the current draw proportionally.

Since you put a new one in, I assume you got the old one out. How did it come apart from the base? Did you just have to pull up on it?

[Midnightsun]

The breaker unit shown should work fine for your application. Normally one would fuse a 1500 gph for 10a as they tend to draw around 5amps. The breaker shown is rated to trip at 9.375amp therefor perfect for your application.

One must also consider if the bilge pump sees no water and therefor has no work to do it will only draw a couple of amps when you flip it on in a dry situation. The 5 amp rating is when it pumps full capacity @ 1500gph (motor under load). I suspect something else is wrong, most likely a wiring short/improper connection since it is tripping right away.

[bud37]

After reading this thread again, I agree with Hans....if that breaker you showed there has worked with that big pump all these years and was factory spec then there should be no need to oversize unless your new pump requires a much larger breaker. Now that breaker you show may just be tired.
One question, have you checked this other panel switch you mentioned for proper operation ( no shorts, good clean connections etc)....look for and check all the butt connectors if found...all the other pumps work correctly..???

[CptBacardi]

I ordered the 10a breaker, which trips at 12.5. The new pump is a Seaflo 1500gph which is rated at 7a and the spec sheet says it needs a 12a breaker. I didn’t see a locked motor spec. Hopefully that gets it going. I put in new butt connectors, but I cut the wires off the old pump so I could pull them up to where I could access putting in new connectors. The old butt connectors are still there, above water, and visually appear ok. They’re hard to reach. I hope I don’t have to redo those. I removed the old pump by prying it up with a crowbar. I twisted and pulled but it wouldn’t budge. It was, in fact, screwed in with 3 inaccessible screws. I guess if you were the Incredable Hulk you could have twisted it off. Even after getting it out I couldn’t twist it off the mounting plate.

[bud37]

The less connectors the better IMO.......just getting rid of that old one now sounds advisable..a little story from the past ...once had a water pump that acted up, drew a lot of power, well it had been changed a number of times by PO's and each time there was a new connector....after removing the old connectors , replacing with some new wire and one connector all the problems stopped......good luck man.

[km1125]

Well, lo and behold, my old one was an Attwood too. I thought it was a Rule but I haven't really looked at it in a while. I'll look again at how you take them apart, but I know they do come apart because I did have to remove and replace one of mine.

[CptBacardi]

I started a new thread in Electrical for this called “New breaker doesn’t fit”

[CptBacardi]

Ok, I got a new 10a (12.5a trip) breaker. Required with new butt connectors (removed old pump wires). Now it works! BUT, the float switch doesn’t work. The previous one didn’t either. I suspect it is a bad 3 way switch on the helm. Continuos works, auto does not. Any idea what brand/model switches these are? I can’t find em anywhere online.