1983 Carver Mariner V drive cooling system help

[Fireriders]

Hi all and if I'm in the wrong place for this I'm sorry, let me know and I will look elsewhere. I recently got a deal I couldn't refuse on a model 2897 Carver 1983 with twin 305 chevys. Anyway my only issue with the boat is the V-drives. The cooling hoses are disconnected on all ends and the hoses lay on the bottom of the boat starting and ending nowhere. Does anyone have a cooling schematic or photo for me to trace all this out. I read I should pressure test the cooling pipe inside the V-drive to be sure there is no water leaks into the drive oil. This is no sweat and and easy test. I have all the equipment to do this as I am a semi-retired mechanic with 50 years under my belt. Any and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks,

[Viper]

Welcome to the forum. Knowing the make and model of the v-drive would help. Is it a separate v-drive from the engine with a shaft and u-joints connecting the two? If it is, it's likely a Walter v-drive and there were a couple of ways those were plumbed in.

[Fireriders]

Yes it is a Walter V-drive and it is mounted alone connected by a shaft and U-joint. I hope t get to the boat this weekend for some photos of it. I saw no data plate on the drive where I was told it would be but, the angle I am looking on makes it very hard to determine. There is a large threaded hole on the port side of the drive looks to be about 1 inch or slightly larger. I believe a 90 degree elbow was there originally though not positive. i have to remove more floor panels to see the other side of the drive as to what type of fitting or threaded hole is there. The Port V-drive is not plumbed to water either so no help there. I am wondering if I can pull the water from the engine as it is freshwater cooled with antifreeze and not have to worry about corrosion from the saltwater. The cooling tube in the V-drive is shaped like a W or an M depends witch way your holding it. Once I have it all exposed I may as well replace them at this point. Do you agree and if so do you know who carries the part? Thank you so much in advance. I have never dealt with a V-drive before so not up on it. I can't find a books or manuals for it either.

[Viper]

There are two ways those are plumbed in. The most common is from the seacock into the v-drive then out from the v-drive to the engine raw water pump. The oil cooler for the v-drive is built into the top of the drive under the cover where the dipstick is. There is a coiled tube in there that the oil circulates through and dissipates its head through the raw water passing by. You'll also have an oil cooler for the transmission on the engine.

The other way those are plumbed in is to have two seacocks strictly for the v-drive and a separate one for the engine. With this setup, there is no raw water pump forcing water through the v-drive. On the drive's seacocks, one scoop faces forward and one faces aft. The motion of the boat through the water forces water through one of the seacocks, on through the drive's heat exchanger, then out the other seacock. this happens in forward and reverse. You need the boat to be moving for the drive to get cooling water so it's not a good idea to run the unit in gear for too long while tied to the dock. Take a look at which setup you have as this is important to note.

[Fireriders]

Ok thanks for the info. It will help greatly. Will get to the boat hopefully during the coming week. Just in case my coiled tube is bad and that's why it was disconnected is there a supplier for a new coil and related O rings and gaskets? Thanks again.

[Viper]

Contact them directly: http://www.waltergear.com/

[Fireriders]

Got it and thanks for all the help.

[bud37]

While you are down there, consider replacing the shaft packing....the starboard side is fairly easy but the port side is miserable due to the access thru the seat storage door if you have the head forward configuration.

Is the boat on stands now ?

[Fireriders]

Yes boat is on the hard until this cooling thing is straightened out. Yes have the head forward. Looks to be under the dinette seat.

[Fireriders]

Ok here is where were at with the V-drive. I put the cooling system under 5 psi pressure. Water poured out of the V drive all around the head gasket area. Removed the 6 bolts holding it down and the threads came with them or were rusted away completely. The raw water chamber is severely rusted and corroded with no chance of ever getting the top back on water tight.....SO this is what I did for good or bad. Really overkilled the cooling system. Picked up a stainless steel pool heat exchanger and plumbed it to all the fitting on the V-drive. Raw water now bypasses the V-drive completely and goes through the heat exchanger. Oil is plumbed to the inner tubes of the heat exchanger. Oil section of the heat exchanger holds an extra 2 pints of oil which I see as a benefit also. I used the sealant on the head called the "right stuff" as I needed the head in place for the oil dipstick. This also worked out great. My only question now is it possible to "over cool" the oil? I can't see this happening as the water here only get as low as the 50's in the early boating season and goes up from there. Am attaching images hope they come out.[image][/image]