Carver 355 aft cabin control cable replacement

[@ftcabin355]

I just replaced my transmission control cables and wasn't able to find much information related to a Carver 355 aft cabin so I am providing what I learned. The 1995 Carver was a recent purchase and It was very hard to engage the transmission from the control-unit, especially on the starboard side.

This will be the same procedure for replacing the throttle cables, however the lengths will be different. My first effort was to inspect the controls and then clean and re-lube the lobes on the control unit. That helped slightly. I then checked the transmission shift lever to make sure the neutral-detent ball was not seized or damaged. The next step was to check the cables themselves.

To access either control unit, the seat back attached to the front side of the helm is removed by lifting up from underneath to disengage the three tabs that hold it in position. Then there are three access panels that provide access to the helm controls. Next was to disconnect the control cable from the transmission. The attachment arm on the transmission should operate easily. To isolate the problem, the cable is then disconnected from the control. A cotter pin must be removed from the clevis pin that attaches the cable to the control. Easy operation of the control will verify a bad cable. To remove the cable, there is a key-plate with a single screw that fits between the two cables at the very back of the control unit. Back the screw out until the key drops out of its slot. The cables can then be pulled from their slots.

For the Carver 355 Aft Cabin, the two cables needed are a 25 ft cable (port) and 30 ft (stbd). The length of the original Teleflex cables were marked about 2-feet from each end. I used the Teleflex EXTreme Control Cables, CCX633 which were exact replacements and work great. Of note is that Teleflex has discontinued making the top mount CH4400 control units that are used on the Carver.

It will be a full day’s job to replace both cables. The first step is to locate the raceways for the cables and follow them to the engine bay and to each transmission. Start from from the port-side of the helm. You will see the seams of the raceway in the floor which are about 6 inches wide and run under the port-side helm storage bin. There is a large screw near the back of the bin that holds it in place. Once removed, there is a wooden shoe-mold on the floor behind the bin that needs to be removed. The race-way can then be removed and will expose the cables and wiring underneath.

Inside the cabin there is a panel in the bulkhead next to the window that is attached with Velcro and is easily removed by pulling on its strap. You will have to detach the A/C vent from its hose to remove the panel. There is also a 2-ft square wood panel in the corner under the window that is held in place with wood screws. You should now have access to the entire raceway.

Pulling the cables is straightforward, but can be difficult. What I discovered was that the Carver is well-protected from weather, which means the cables and wiring leading inside the boat are weather-protected in a fairly tight boot. The boot makes a 90-degree bend as it feeds into the bulkhead and cannot be accessed by hand. The process is to tie the end of the new cable onto the end of the old cable and pull both cables through. I chose to pull from inside the cabin.

The next step was to find the cable, remove all of the cable ties and then pull the cable out of the helm and raceway. I also opened a hatch so I could pull the other loose end of the cable from the bilge into the cabin. Use quality duct tape to attach the new cable to the old one. Remove the back-up nuts and rubber seals from both cable ends and tape them together at the narrowest point. Then wrap the two cable ends together in a spiral direction as smoothly and with as few wrinkles as possible to keep the diameter to a minimum. The attached cables also need to be as short as possible to make the sharp bend through the weather boot. Any protrusions in the splice will snag inside the boot. Lubricate the Tape liberally with glycerin (liquid hand soap like Dawn will work) and begin pulling it through from the wall panel inside the cabin. A second pair of eyes will help with progress or to help retrieve the cable if it gets stuck. The hard part is getting the connected cables through the weather boot as it makes the 90-deg turn into the bulkhead. Once the splice is visible it can be guided through the bulkhead and into the wall behind the paneling. Both cables will want to drop behind the fuel tank, so you have to pull the rear hatch and guide them over the top of the tank as they enter the engine bay.

You can then remove the tape and any tape residue on the control cable. From there, guide the cable over the tank and route to the correct transmission. The cable length can be adjusted at the control or the transmission. This is also a good time to install the two rubber boots on each end of the cable. I found it easiest to attach the cable to the control and then make the final length adjustment at the transmission. Once the cable(s) are attached to the control, you will need to replace the key to keep them in place. Replacing the key between the two cables is a bit tricky. Leave the screw threaded into the key so it doesn’t protrude out the back side. You can then use the screw head to guide the key back into its slot between the two cables. Then run the screw in, which will keep it in place. To adjust the cable, you can attach to the control and adjust at the transmission, or attach to the transmission and adjust at the control. Either way, set the control in neutral at the helm and then attach the cable to either location to start. Adjust the length at either end by threading in or out. With the transmission also in neutral adjust the loose end until it inserts easily into the transmission shift lever or the control lever. Once the adjustments are made, replace the cotter key in the clevis pin at the control.

Check for proper operation.

[g36]

Awesome write up of your work. Hopefully this will help others in need. Thank you for posting this.

[ColRon]

Awesome write up!

[Ringing wet]

Good job, I can add to be sure the transmission levers ball detent on the (Velvet Drive Transmission) has to be adjusted so the ball is lined up with the hole in the shift arm. This ensures full pressure to the clutches in gear.
My 355 has 2 helms, The cables from the upper helm control levers go to the lower helm control levers, then another set of cables connected at the lower helm control levers go to the throttles/transmissions. Are those lengths different on a single helm boat? I cannot find the #s embossed on the cables anywhere within 5 feet of either cable end on all 8 cables. Used to be able to go to Carver's website and get the lengths but that's gone. I don't want to pull the cables out to measure and then reinstall them as the risk of damaging something goes up times 2 and I'd like to use the boat till I find someone who can replace them all. Has anyone got a lead on this information?

[Ringing wet]

Looks like my cables were (2x)28' and (2x)32' from the upper helm to the lower helm. It took 5 hours to replace all 4 of them with adjustments. All 4 plastic cable ends were replaced with brass cable ends at the upper helm for better quality. The stbd shift cable end at the upper helm was difficult to assemble so a 3" hole was drilled behind the stbd side bolster cushion to access it, this made it a piece of cake to install the cable end and bend the cotter pin.
There is a world of difference in the shifters, and the throttles have some improvement but the assurance of them remaining effortless for a long while was worth it. After all, most of us are out there to enjoy the landscape, not wrestle with our boats.