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Suggested Oil for 1997 Crusader 454 XLi's
- Wayne162
- Captain
- Posts: 202
- Joined: September 5th, 2015, 12:45 am
- Vessel Info: 1997 Carver 405
"Change In Latitude"
Home port - Charleston, South Carolina - Has thanked: 16 times
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Suggested Oil for 1997 Crusader 454 XLi's
I am looking for a good marine grade oil for my boat's power plant's, the owners manual advises SAE 40 but I like my synthetics and run Amsoil in my Ford 7.3 L. After lengthy reading I am not sure what is best as synthetics in an older motor can have blow-by dependent on wear, and base oils lack the superior lubricating qualities offered by synthetics. Do marine oils contain added rust inhibitors over conventional automotive oils? I question the previous owners maintenance as they could not tell me what oil they used in these motors, and two year old marine batteries had no electrolytes. I am a little intense on the service of my equipment and a hands on type that most likely stayed with me since the Marines. Any guidance is appreciated, looking for a good reasonably priced oil options for these motors. Thanks All
- waybomb
- CYO Moderator
- Posts: 2408
- Joined: February 5th, 2013, 9:24 pm
- Vessel Info: 1995 Boston Whaler Rage15
1987 3697 Carver Mariner
1988 Cougar 46 Kevlar Vee offshore
1969 15' Glasspar / 1967 Johnson Electromatic 85
1996 Boston Whaler Rage 15 - Location: Saint Joseph,Mi
- Has thanked: 50 times
- Been thanked: 398 times
Suggested Oil for 1997 Crusader 454 XLi's
Not all synthetics are created equal. Not all are PAO base stocks. Or have have PAO but have lesser grades as well.
I think proven performance is what to look at though. You could go nuts reading specs.
My take:
I use Rotella in all my boat engines. Change the oil in 10 hours on PV, 50 hours the rest. I run 15/40. No Issues.
On PV I add 2 points of the old GM break-in lube. I have cases of it that I have bought over time. This is the one with the heavy ZDDP content. The one no longer available since it fouls catalytic converters. But only on PV.
I use Mobil 1 0-30 in my benzes. My last daily driver had 357,000+ miles on it when I sold it. I changed the oil only when FSS said it was due, and that was typically between 15,000 and 18,000 miles. The car is still running around town, no smoking, no indication the engines had that many miles.
That's my 2 cents on it.
ps - In all my years of messing with engines, no matter what oil I used, including Walmart brand, I have never had an oil related failure on any engine. Does anybody know anybody that actually had an oil related failure, the failure directly linked to the oil used, not how often it was replaced?
Spend your money wisely!
Fred
1969 Glaspar Avalon /1969 Johnson Electromatic 85
1987 Carver Mariner
1988 Cougar Kevlar 46' with triple blown 572 ci
1995 Boston Whaler Rage
Past - 1988 2807, 1989 4207 Aft
- Wayne162
- Captain
- Posts: 202
- Joined: September 5th, 2015, 12:45 am
- Vessel Info: 1997 Carver 405
"Change In Latitude"
Home port - Charleston, South Carolina - Has thanked: 16 times
- Been thanked: 32 times
- Contact:
Suggested Oil for 1997 Crusader 454 XLi's
I have a friend that has his own heavy equipment company in NJ. Last summer he tested the oil in his 90's Ford F-250 TD at 10,000 as he runs Rotella synthetic from Wal-Mart. This truck transports heavy equipment so needless to say they are hard miles on this oil. The results were impressive, the lab told him he was good to go for another 10,000 as the oil was still viable and within normal ranges.
- waybomb
- CYO Moderator
- Posts: 2408
- Joined: February 5th, 2013, 9:24 pm
- Vessel Info: 1995 Boston Whaler Rage15
1987 3697 Carver Mariner
1988 Cougar 46 Kevlar Vee offshore
1969 15' Glasspar / 1967 Johnson Electromatic 85
1996 Boston Whaler Rage 15 - Location: Saint Joseph,Mi
- Has thanked: 50 times
- Been thanked: 398 times
Suggested Oil for 1997 Crusader 454 XLi's
I buy the Mobil 1 at Walmart too, about 26 bucks for a 5 quart jug. The Benzes take 8 quarts each.
If you are going for extended service and use oil sampling as a predictive maintenance tool and a measurement for preventative maintenance, I' believe M1 is the way to go. If you are changing on a fixed period, then dino is the way I go.
PAO is a certain type of Synthetic base stock.
Fred
1969 Glaspar Avalon /1969 Johnson Electromatic 85
1987 Carver Mariner
1988 Cougar Kevlar 46' with triple blown 572 ci
1995 Boston Whaler Rage
Past - 1988 2807, 1989 4207 Aft
- Wayne162
- Captain
- Posts: 202
- Joined: September 5th, 2015, 12:45 am
- Vessel Info: 1997 Carver 405
"Change In Latitude"
Home port - Charleston, South Carolina - Has thanked: 16 times
- Been thanked: 32 times
- Contact:
Suggested Oil for 1997 Crusader 454 XLi's
Think About Your Zinc
Have you heard about the zinc problem with modern motor oils? Many classic car owners and racers have experienced camshaft failures due to decreased zinc levels in modern motor oils.
Now, with levels about to change again this fall, it’s more important than ever for engine builders to think about their zinc.
If you’ve not had the pleasure of having your camshaft go flat due to modern motor oils, consider yourself very fortunate. As an owner of an engine parts warehouse, I’ve seen hundreds of perfectly good camshafts ruined by modern motor oils.
So, when I read about the new API SN motor oil coming out this fall, I started talking to the engine builders we supply parts to. They all said the same thing: car owners don’t know much about these modern motor oils and the problems they can cause in classic cars and racecars.
In many cases, modern motor oils are simply not good for classic hot rods and race cars. Here’s why:
“Zinc,” or ZDDP as it is commonly referred to, in motor oils is a type of chemical called Zinc DialkylDithioPhosphate. “Zinc” has been the most common anti-wear additive used in motor oils for the last 60 years. (I’ll just call it ‘zinc’ for the rest of this article.)
Zinc is a remarkable chemical that protects engine parts from metal-to-metal contact under heavy loads. It works by creating a film on the iron and steel parts in an engine.
Unfortunately, zinc also creates a film inside modern three-way catalytic converters. This “Zinc Poisoning” limits three-way catalytic converter life to around 70,000 miles.
The Federal Environmental Protection Agency mandates that car manufacturers warranty three-way catalytic converters on new cars built since 2004 for 120,000 miles. To achieve this goal, the car manufacturers worked with the American Petroleum Institute to create new, lower-zinc oils that allow three-way catalytic converters to live longer.
These new “Lower Emissions” oils have extended catalytic converter life, but they have shortened the life of flat-tappet camshafts.
Not long after these modern motor oils with less zinc hit the market, we started to notice an increase in flat-tappet camshaft failures. At first, it was the race engine builders, so we shrugged it off as some new “trick” the race guys were doing that caused the problem. Then we started to see stock flat tappet camshafts going flat.
Things got ugly really fast. Every camshaft company started researching the problem. So did the Automotive Engine Rebuilders Association. Everybody wanted to know: why are cams going flat?
The answer was less zinc.
Turns out, lower zinc oils work just fine in modern production car engines with overhead cams and roller lifters. These modern engines don’t rev past 5,000 rpm.
On the other hand, most hot rod and race motors have push rods and flat tappet lifters, and rev beyond 5,000 rpm. These engines need motor oil with more zinc.
The good news is that “High Zinc” oils are available.
If you have a classic car or racecar, I highly recommend using a higher-zinc oil. We use the Joe Gibbs brand, and there are others also available.
We have seen a dramatic reduction in camshaft problems when our engine builders started using higher-zinc oils designed for older engines.
Again, if you’ve not had any problems so far, consider yourself very lucky. But with the new formulas scheduled to be released this fall, switching to a high-zinc oil before the new API SN oils hit the shelves is like an insurance policy you’ll be happy you have.
We like selling engine parts, but I hate seeing good parts go bad—especially when they don’t have to.
Source
- waybomb
- CYO Moderator
- Posts: 2408
- Joined: February 5th, 2013, 9:24 pm
- Vessel Info: 1995 Boston Whaler Rage15
1987 3697 Carver Mariner
1988 Cougar 46 Kevlar Vee offshore
1969 15' Glasspar / 1967 Johnson Electromatic 85
1996 Boston Whaler Rage 15 - Location: Saint Joseph,Mi
- Has thanked: 50 times
- Been thanked: 398 times
Suggested Oil for 1997 Crusader 454 XLi's
PV gets its zink from the break in lube.
Fred
1969 Glaspar Avalon /1969 Johnson Electromatic 85
1987 Carver Mariner
1988 Cougar Kevlar 46' with triple blown 572 ci
1995 Boston Whaler Rage
Past - 1988 2807, 1989 4207 Aft
- Wayne162
- Captain
- Posts: 202
- Joined: September 5th, 2015, 12:45 am
- Vessel Info: 1997 Carver 405
"Change In Latitude"
Home port - Charleston, South Carolina - Has thanked: 16 times
- Been thanked: 32 times
- Contact:
Suggested Oil for 1997 Crusader 454 XLi's
http://lucasoil.com/pdf/Zinc_Values_MotorcycleOil.pdf
- Lyndon670
- Admiral
- Posts: 657
- Joined: July 29th, 2013, 11:35 pm
- Vessel Info: 2000 Carver 506
Volvo TAMD74EDC - Location: Georgian Bay
- Has thanked: 124 times
- Been thanked: 139 times
Suggested Oil for 1997 Crusader 454 XLi's
Putting synthetic in a boat motor doesn't make sense to me outside of a go-fast boat that is running at close to WOT all the time - you simply won't get the benefit of the oil if you change it at the end of each season.
2000 Carver 506
FOXY JOE
Volvo 7.4TAMD
Queens Cove Marina
Georgian Bay, Ontario
- Wayne162
- Captain
- Posts: 202
- Joined: September 5th, 2015, 12:45 am
- Vessel Info: 1997 Carver 405
"Change In Latitude"
Home port - Charleston, South Carolina - Has thanked: 16 times
- Been thanked: 32 times
- Contact:
Suggested Oil for 1997 Crusader 454 XLi's
"I contacted the Exxon Mobil Technical Support Center, which advised that Commercial Vehicle lubricants such as the Delvac brand, do not reference the below requested information on the Data Sheets. It was advised that there is information listed in Section 15 of the Safety Data Sheet, but they cannot provide the information verbally.
I have attached the Safety Data Sheet for your review, to assist with answering your question. Unfortunately, the detail was not provided to me to directly answer the request.
Please let me know if I can be of further assistance".
The safety data sheet provided no info, it was a dead end answer. When I checked the site for Lucas oil, they provided the complete breakdown of the information by oil type and weight for every product. I have no ties to Lucas Oil and never have used it but the company appears to be stand-up about their products. They do fortify with zinc.
BTW, I am trying Noflex in my tanks from your posted recommendation. It seems better but I had sludge build up from previous owners and i'm waiting to see if it cuts through and cleans it out. Thank you
- Lyndon670
- Admiral
- Posts: 657
- Joined: July 29th, 2013, 11:35 pm
- Vessel Info: 2000 Carver 506
Volvo TAMD74EDC - Location: Georgian Bay
- Has thanked: 124 times
- Been thanked: 139 times
Suggested Oil for 1997 Crusader 454 XLi's
Another great trick for your holding tank is the ice cube and laundry detergent trick. It will advance the cleaning if you are trying to defeat the sludge. Fill your tank to 1/4 of water, add 50 lbs of cubed ice and a box of laundry detergent. Then go for a cruise. The sloshing around with the ice cubes will do a great job. Then you can add your Noflex.
2000 Carver 506
FOXY JOE
Volvo 7.4TAMD
Queens Cove Marina
Georgian Bay, Ontario
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