Crusader 350 stutter/dies over 3000 rpm

[Torsson]

One of my crusaders dies when going from 2000rpm to 3000+rpm. I can run 2-3 hours at 2000rpm (7 knot restrictions) but on open water i try to go on plane one of the engines dies. Checked the fuel filter Qs 35-802893Q1 and emptied it in a glass jar. As you can see i think i found the problem but what is the next step except replacing the filter?

[km1125]

Well, unless you're going to flush the tank (which is the best, but usually hardest idea), then you have to adapt. You could install two filters in parallel with a selector switch so when one clogs you can quickly switch to the other one and continue running. Then changeout the bad filter when back at port.

If you get your tanks both below half, you could pump everything out of the "bad" tank, through some good filters, to the other tank to try and get as much out of there as you can.

[Torsson]

Source of the post Well, unless you're going to flush the tank (which is the best, but usually hardest idea), then you have to adapt. You could install two filters in parallel with a selector switch so when one clogs you can quickly switch to the other one and continue running. Then changeout the bad filter when back at port.

If you get your tanks both below half, you could pump everything out of the "bad" tank, through some good filters, to the other tank to try and get as much out of there as you can.

They are both full. And with swedish gas prices i would like to keep ignoring this reply

[bud37]

Let the boat sit still for a couple days then pump the bottom of the tanks out and see what you get.......it can be sucked out with one of those vacuum suction devices for doing oil changes then buy some extra filters and work your way thru the bad gas going slow......be safe fooling with gasoline, any spark even from static can be deadly.
Is there anyone over there that will polish the gas......suck it out, filter it then put it back??

Question, how did it get like that, how does the other tank's filter look, what kind of fuel is it and how old, it is a bit hard to tell from the pic ?

[bud37]

To add, as far as KM's comments about the new fuel, consider if you damage an engine running bad fuel it will be way more costly than a couple tanks of gas.
Sometimes it is better to hire someone with experience ( if they can be found )... if you are not comfortable working with fuel tanks on a boat as it is dangerous.

[Torsson]

Source of the post Let the boat sit still for a couple days then pump the bottom of the tanks out and see what you get.......it can be sucked out with one of those vacuum suction devices for doing oil changes then buy some extra filters and work your way thru the bad gas going slow......be safe fooling with gasoline, any spark even from static can be deadly.
Is there anyone over there that will polish the gas......suck it out, filter it then put it back??

Question, how did it get like that, what kind of fuel is it and how old, it is a bit hard to tell from the pic ?

Yes i think i can get help from the Marina filtering it or crying and remove it from both tanks. Had half tanks from last year topped it of this year. So it could be old, Sweden started with 10% etanol last year so i dont know if this could have cause this or just condensation of years of not having changed the fuel filter. Changed spark plugs/oil etc every year since previus problems i have posted on this forum but have ignored the fuel /water filter. I am used to a fuel filter with a seetrough glass and on this boat i have just missed what is the filter. So this is a dit not service service problem i think. Or the new swedish 95 ocatne gas with 10% etanol (Reported problems with old engines). I also need to check so my fuel caps are not leaking water from rain?

[bud37]

Ah the ethanol....it has been known to clean old tanks and the crud gets pulled thru causing issues it seems you may have found. That is a good idea to check your fuel fill o rings, I used to grease mine to try to keep water out.......tip, while you are there check the continuity/grounding from the tank fills to the engine grounds, over the years things happen, there should be grounding there if they are metal to dissipate any static while filling, after this it may be a good idea to check and clean the tank anti syphon valves.....

It seems some folk have had some luck with additives but I couldn't say which ones worked.....have patience and good luck with your issue.

[Torsson]

Cleaning out all the water from the filters seems to have fixed it. Used the old filter and emptied it out a couple of times on both engines. Installed new filters and have spare for both engines now so i do not have to order. But I need to flush both engines closed cooling system as i think it has mixed coolants how is the best way to do that? And should i install oweflow tanks as it now has nothing from the heat exchanger juste a empty hose point? And last question what coolant should i use?. These engines seems to not be original as all papers says mercruser in the Ce marking after import to Sweden and i have crusaders. And the fact that the choke is zip tied closed so it is a bit of a pain to start cold but that will be a later fix

[km1125]

Why do you think it has mixed coolants? You could actually test the freeze point on the coolant, which would tell you the most important protection factor (that it indeed would not freeze when temps dropped too low).

It used to be pretty predictable that green was an ethylene-based antifreeze but with all the colors used these days all bets are off. The best way to change the coolant would be to completely drain the existing coolant (remove drain plugs in block and manifolds) and then fill with fresh. MAKE SURE you know the correct level because if you fill the heat exchanger too full it will just "burp out" and waste good antifreeze if there's not enough space for expansion. Also, if you do add an overflow tank (which is a good idea and could help keep the bilge clean) then remember that there shouldn't be anything in it if the system is operating correctly because all the coolant that's needed should fit within the engine and heat exchanger.

If you do drain it and refill it, you need to be careful to get all the air out before you really run under load, otherwise you might end up overheating just because an air bubble was trapped in the system and not allowing the coolant to flow properly.

Crusaders were very common in that vintage and there's some folks who think any inboard engine is a "Mercruiser", so I'm not sure I'd put a lot of value on the documentation unless it also listed engine serial numbers.

I'm guessing the choke is actually zip-tied OPEN, or you'd have a heck of a time keeping the engine running anytime OTHER than cold-start. If that has the "divorced choke" style thermostatically-operated mechanism for the choke then you might actually just be able to repair that piece. There's a bi-metal spring-looking element inside the cover on the intake manifold and the center comes loose where it's supposed to be staked down. If the center moves then there's no real control of the choke plate. If you can re-stake the center pin, then you can connect the mechanism back up to the choke plate and toss the zip-tie and you'll have a much easier starting engine.

[Torsson]

Source of the post Why do you think it has mixed coolants? You could actually test the freeze point on the coolant, which would tell you the most important protection factor (that it indeed would not freeze when temps dropped too low).

It used to be pretty predictable that green was an ethylene-based antifreeze but with all the colors used these days all bets are off. The best way to change the coolant would be to completely drain the existing coolant (remove drain plugs in block and manifolds) and then fill with fresh. MAKE SURE you know the correct level because if you fill the heat exchanger too full it will just "burp out" and waste good antifreeze if there's not enough space for expansion. Also, if you do add an overflow tank (which is a good idea and could help keep the bilge clean) then remember that there shouldn't be anything in it if the system is operating correctly because all the coolant that's needed should fit within the engine and heat exchanger.

If you do drain it and refill it, you need to be careful to get all the air out before you really run under load, otherwise you might end up overheating just because an air bubble was trapped in the system and not allowing the coolant to flow properly.

Crusaders were very common in that vintage and there's some folks who think any inboard engine is a "Mercruiser", so I'm not sure I'd put a lot of value on the documentation unless it also listed engine serial numbers.

I'm guessing the choke is actually zip-tied OPEN, or you'd have a heck of a time keeping the engine running anytime OTHER than cold-start. If that has the "divorced choke" style thermostatically-operated mechanism for the choke then you might actually just be able to repair that piece. There's a bi-metal spring-looking element inside the cover on the intake manifold and the center comes loose where it's supposed to be staked down. If the center moves then there's no real control of the choke plate. If you can re-stake the center pin, then you can connect the mechanism back up to the choke plate and toss the zip-tie and you'll have a much easier starting engine.

This is good information thank you so much. But the mixed coolant is that the coolant i used in the winter for the raw water i threw in some in one heat exchanger that was a bit low and forgot about it untill the last trip to my new dock 6 hours drive in nice 7 knots (my 8 year son wanted to steer all the way). And now that has a bit of black sludge almost like coffee powder, i can not see any loss real of engine oil and the engine oil is clean as new. Could be a small leak from the engine overheating i had a few years ago but this does not look like oil in coolant in my eyes. Quite similar in color as the pic (not my pic) but not as much and more coffee powder like than this